rebuilding a set of twins doce 40

[nobody]

I listened to the little hiccup several times and I do believe that is timing. Small problem really and to fix it will only give you more top end too. Just degree the front pully and mark it and retime it. I like the sound of twins, it is just too cool. Around 15 initial will do the trick. It should rev like a rocket from there. Again a very good job and I think your making people think twin.

[opeldean]

check out todays video
"number one"
"idle"

no hicccups...nobody told me how to pull evenly on the carbs...i am pulling even mercury at idle and 3000 rpms,,,she sounds and runs great,,,timing set by guess

[opeldean]

to answer the pm. my info is at home.

i will post my jetting, emulsion tubes, and chokes tonight. it is very different from what is posted elsewhwere. .i was worried because it was so different to my estimation. (Nobody...you were right on).

based on todays drive of 17 miles.. i dont see how it could run any better.

my only mod. is a 2in sprint -exhaust and a pertronix ignitor/ new coil

[nobody]

Maybe a bit of background is in order. Deans carbs came off a 2.0 that was done in Germany by either Steinmetz or probably Irmsher themselves. The car was brought back from Germany by a serviceman and hadn't been driven since. I got an idea that didn't hold water for a different motor build and got the intakes and carbs. I was interested in how the carbs were jetted but really had no use for them. I suggested some changes to the setup for Deans motor that seemed to work well. For those out there thinking twins what Dean has to say for jetting and chokes isn't just from me I just suggested some things to suit for his motor.

[opeldean]

the auto store choke cable that i had was stiff and did not hold its position at all.there is a locking version that i bought,but i have made one that i believe is better.

step1: get a single bar end gear shift from a vintage 70's bicycle- usually a japanese 10 speed ..get a "suntour bar end shft lever" go to a bike shop that has a junk box.gear a bike gear cable to match.

step2:adapt this end to car choke cable. the suntour lever is ratched with adjustable friction, the throw of the barrel is perfect.way better quality. you can match the resistance of the lever to match the tug back pull of the return springs in the carb.

its works smooth,easy, and will hold any partially open or closed position

[nobody]

looks good and again I'm impressed.

[opeldean]

Dave(nobody) suggested i feed the choke cable thru the hole that the speedo cable passes thru. this worked out great, Thank you Dave.

its these sort of tips makes the job go faster and w/o error.

here is a good view of the "pushrod type of choke" and the bicycle cable.

[opeldean]

i hammered a bit on the outside metal.everything is running great,screen was cut on back side closest to firewell.

ps: look on german ebay for irmshers or equivalent..you wont be sorry.

[nobody]

The cut off hex key wrench, and you do need to finish the cross connect, it will help especially with braking. Dean that is a great job, but you do good work and well twins kinda are a good thing no matter what. Post more pics and it'll just drive prices up, again great job. It looks wonderful and seems to run well for ya.

[opeldean]

here is the jetting i am using. this jetting was originally from a steimetz or irmsher tuner..with a modification or two as suggested by dave grant. for information purposes this is running well on my stock,very tired, 70 oil burning engine,pertronix,sprint,2 in exhaust.
mains:115
airs:190
emulsion tubes -f11
pump jets -40
chokes -30mm
4.5 aux venturis
45f9 idles
i am posting this befroe i lose my scap of paper

[MICAH1]

Hello Opeldean,
Great looking setup with the twins. I noticed that you have the valve cover plugged and with a paper breather, check out this summit site for a Edelbrock Elete Series Breathers (EDL-4211). I installed one and really like it. I plugged the large hole and mounted the breather on the other side.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...d=1&s=58&v=EDL

[opeldean]

hey very cool opel gt owner: is this what you used on the drivers side of the valve cover?? di d you have to drill a hole or slot?


are there two types??

[MICAH1]

Yes that is the one. Rally Bob posted an entry on it. After you drill the four mount holes, you then drill a number of holes (instructions will indicate) inside the template for the breather function. "DRIVE OPELDEAN DRIVE".

There are other types but this was Rally B's choice.

[v6transplant]

My neighbors said the same thing, "sounds mean." I love the sound of sidedrafts...

Nice job on the install!

[opeldean]

brass may look good on a 34 year old engine, i will post a photo when i get it on

[opeldean]

I kinda like it

[opelgt722002]

brass manifold installed

Can you notice a difference in the vacuum to the brake booster?

Edited: I now see it is still attached at all 4 ports by the rubber hoses. Originally, I thought you were switching to just 2 ports. My error.

[opeldean]

i learned somehting last night from Nobody in the opel chat room.

the flow in the solex was "into the vent hoses,into the cannister and into the tank",..i thought wrongly that" gas fumes came out the tank and went into the solex".

therefore: since the dcoe doesnt have a carb bowl vent, you can plug the single carb vent hose and toss the cannister and its related hoses. this is great, less garbage in the engine bay..possibly better air to the radiator.

[kwilford]

i learned something last night from Nobody in the opel chat room. the flow in the solex was "into the vent hoses,into the cannister and into the tank",..i thought wrongly that" gas fumes came out the tank and went into the solex". therefore: since the dcoe doesn't have a carb bowl vent, you can plug the single carb vent hose and toss the cannister and its related hoses. this is great, less garbage in the engine bay..possibly better air to the radiator.

Sorry, but no. The tank and Solex float bowl vent INTO the cannister. The tank is sealed, except for the cannister connection. The activated charcoal inside the cannister temporarily absorbs hydrocarbon (gasoline) fumes until the engine starts, when the third connection (into the Solex throat, above the venturi) pulls a slight vacuum, drawing OUT the fumes from the cannister.

If you replace the Solex with a Weber (Down-draft or Side-draft), the tank still needs to vent into something. If you plug the tank vent, it will either pressurize, or worse, be pulled into a vacuum when the pump pulls fuel out, which will cause a nasty case of vapour lock. And better to vent the tank to the cannister than the atmosphere, IMHO. Some Weber DGAS carbs have a float bowl vent, but most (and I believe all down-draft Webers) do not (the float bowl vents into the throat), so the ones that do can still be vented into the cannister. On those that don't, the connection on the cannister can be plugged .

Venting the cannister is best done by connecting the third port to the air filter chamber, DOWNSTREAM of the filter, where a slight vacuum is created by the pressure drop across the filter.

Dean, better go pull the cannister back out of the garbage!

[nobody]

I'm sorry but the tank is vented to atmosphere. I just looked at all the FSM diagrams and it seems a few lines aren't there. Then again 71 and 72 shows no fuel fill and 73 seem to avoid it completely, and for 69 and 70 it was a very grey area. I can take some pics or send you a few variations of how it was done over the years if that would help. A fuel supply sytem cannot be competely contained or even worse tied to strictly a vacuum source like the intake and not vapor lock... then again they had to do something with the unused fuel a solex couldn't deal with.