2.4 with an SSD and a 45DCOE - Page 9
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Thread: 2.4 with an SSD and a 45DCOE

  1. #161
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    Thank you Norbert indeed. I will have them shipped to my daughter in Holland.
    Okay it would be alone a offer!

    You be the first who want not save money by shipment costs
    When I look Krause :Germany 6,90 Euro and Netherlands 19,50 Euro. And Di Michele: Germany free and Netherlands 5,55 Euro on ebay shop

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  3. #162
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Let me ask you this PJ: Do we need to have the full length of the part of the velocity stacks that we insert into the carb?

    I had this problem 3 years ago during my dual carb attempt and I chopped away most of the insertion part of the stack closest to the firewall because I couldn't get it in any other way. The funny washers and bolts that normally hold the stacks on held it in place just fine.

    There doesn't seem to be any reason for those stacks to be inserted so far. 1/4" is more than enough for them, let's call them "sleeves", to extend past the ends of the venturis. That large amount of insertion doesn't seem to add any sealing of the area around the venturis. When I took my carb off there was fuel and oil residue on those sleeves, so clearly they don't seem to seal anything.

    When I took apart that chrome 40DCOE, that I got from a dude who had it on his Harley, I found large rubber o-rings stuffed around the stack sleeves inside the carb. My 45DCOE, nor my other two 40DCOE's, had o-rings around the venturi/sleeves, so I figure the guy put them in there by mistake.

  4. #163
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I pondered my dilemma last night and got to work this morning on an idea using the oem linkage that should work....in principal. I took a bunch of measurements and then designed and made a mock up of what I have in mind. I boiled the situation down to a few generalizations. I have two rotating shafts: The linkage and the carb throttle. I need one shaft to turn the other shaft the same amount of rotation(about 90*). The ends of the shafts are 2"-3" apart laterally. One shaft is at a 15* angle in relation to the other one. This angle is too extreme for the linkage's swiveling ball joints to handle, they can only handle 10* or less. The linkage lined up pretty good on the Midikit manifold with only 5* disparities in perpendicularity and the oem linkage was just the right length and the whole system worked well. The Steinmetz was not designed to use the oem linkage at all. On the Steinmetz the linkage is 1" too short to reach the throttle ball comfortably and wants to pull off of it. The 15* angle difference binds the linkage and causes all sorts of other problems. The position of the vacuum port on the Steinmetz will interfere with any attempt at running the linkage straight to the carb throttle. If the linkage came straight from the firewall and was tilted down a bit, it can easily pass under the vacuum port with room to spare and totally eliminate the vacuum port problem. Rods and levers and linkage are 1930's/40's technology. I hate using bicycle cables to operate my car's devices.

    So, with those observations, I thought: How would I deal with this sort of problem on the machines at my job? Gears/pulleys and chains/belts, of course. The same way this sort of situation is dealt with in your engine, transmission, and differential. Because of the high heat situation in the carb area, I decided to rule out belts and pulleys right from the start. So that leaves gears and chains. The machines I work on every day have several devices that use very small chains and gears that are about 1/3 the size of bicycle chains and gears and I have a number of fixed and idling gears to choose from.

    So my idea is essentially this: Fix a gear to the carb's throttle shaft. Create a bracket to hold an idling(free spinning) gear in the same plane as the gear on the throttle(the 15* angle issue) and position it 2"-3" away from the throttle's gear. Connect the 2 gears with a chain. Adapt the linkage to rotate the idling gear, which would move the chain, which would rotate the throttle. That's it. The same way a bicycle works. Think of the linkage and idling gear as your pedals and crank and think of your rear wheel and the gear fixed to it as the throttle.

    I whipped up a mock up using the carb's mounting bolts to the intake as my anchor point for the idling gear's mounting bracket. My mock up is just a proof of concept, I'll make a stronger bracket later. I don't have any gears in the house, so I used washers to simulate the gears. Unlike the pictures below, I will weld the throttle's ball end to the idling gear, along with the L-bracket that the linkage roll pin pushes at to rotate it. The throttle will just have a gear fixed to it. A chain will connect the two gears. I'll gather some gears and chain from work and I'll work on cobbling it all together. Here's a sequence of pics I took as I worked things out:



    IMG_4904.jpg IMG_4905.jpg IMG_4907.jpg IMG_4909.jpg IMG_4910.jpg IMG_4912.jpgIMG_4917.jpg IMG_4918.jpg IMG_4919.jpg

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  6. #164
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    Okay it would be alone a offer!

    You be the first who want not save money by shipment costs
    When I look Krause :Germany 6,90 Euro and Netherlands 19,50 Euro. And Di Michele: Germany free and Netherlands 5,55 Euro on ebay shop
    Yeah, but if I have them shipped to you, I will have to buy you a beer, 1...2...3.
    On the second thought...I will have to buy you a beer anyway. Hmmmm. PROST!
    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  7. #165
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Here's pictures of the bracket:


    IMG_4920.jpg IMG_4921.jpg IMG_4922.jpg IMG_4923.jpg IMG_4924.jpg


    P.S. The gears do not need to be as big as the washers on my pictures. They can be any size, as long as they are the same size. The chain will make up the difference. The gears I have at work are approximately 1" in diameter.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-09-2017 at 02:33 PM.

  8. #166
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    P.J., here are ones in 40mm for DCOE 45.You can take it when be here in Europ
    You can use my home address and I will bring your parts to Sevenum Meeting!
    There are also 16mm and 25mm lenght if you click left on "Ansaugtrichter"

    Alu Ansaugtrichter DCOE 45 L= 40mm -- Krause-Rennsporttechnik.de

    Or here my favorit dealer with other lenght.Scoll down.

    Ansaugtrichter-Luftfilter

    Oo! Oo! Get and send me a pair of 40mm ones also. Put them in PJ's luggage. Take out his shoes to make room. Canadians do not need shoes, they walk around with skis on their feet.


    P.J. Romano likes this.

  9. #167
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Let me ask you this PJ: Do we need to have the full length of the part of the velocity stacks that we insert into the carb?

    I had this problem 3 years ago during my dual carb attempt and I chopped away most of the insertion part of the stack closest to the firewall because I couldn't get it in any other way. The funny washers and bolts that normally hold the stacks on held it in place just fine.

    There doesn't seem to be any reason for those stacks to be inserted so far. 1/4" is more than enough for them, let's call them "sleeves", to extend past the ends of the venturis. That large amount of insertion doesn't seem to add any sealing of the area around the venturis. When I took my carb off there was fuel and oil residue on those sleeves, so clearly they don't seem to seal anything.

    When I took apart that chrome 40DCOE, that I got from a dude who had it on his Harley, I found large rubber o-rings stuffed around the stack sleeves inside the carb. My 45DCOE, nor my other two 40DCOE's, had o-rings around the venturi/sleeves, so I figure the guy put them in there by mistake.
    Actually, I did the same for the 4th barrel, chopped off a pice from the bottom. The stack was loose, so I had to add some tape.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    The Scifi Guy likes this.
    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  10. #168
    OpelGT.com Übermoderator My location kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwilford View Post
    ...or I was thinking a flexible drive extension, such as
    30cm 1/4" Silver Hex Flex Flexible Hose Screwdriver Extension Bit Holder Adapter | eBay
    "http://www.ebay.com/itm/30cm-1-4-Silver-Hex-Flex-Flexible-Hose-Screwdriver-Extension-Bit-Holder-Adapter-/292049043219?hash=item43ff7abf13:g:WDIAAOSwo4pYhWj-"
    So why not a flexible drive?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    P.J. Romano likes this.
    Keith Wilford
    Working on the bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT, and may have another GT to build next...

  11. #169
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    Yeah, but if I have them shipped to you, I will have to buy you a beer, 1...2...3.
    On the second thought...I will have to buy you a beer anyway. Hmmmm. PROST!
    So you will save money too I never drink beer

    "Oo! Oo! Get and send me a pair of 40mm ones also. Put them in PJ's luggage. Take out his shoes to make room. Canadians do not need shoes, they walk around with skis on their feet."

    He Guy`s made a call together and speak over the theme.If there are problems,let me know!

    Find out that De Michele is more expensive as Krause

    Here is a offer for a set of two 39mm on ebay with costs to sent the parts to the USA

    45 DCOE Weber Vergaser 2x Ansaugtrichter gesteckt, Länge 39mm | eBay

  12. #170
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Pierce Manifolds has 34mm ones for $35 EACH:


    https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/52840.032.htm

  13. #171
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Pierce Manifolds has 34mm ones for $35 EACH:


    https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/52840.032.htm
    You be sure,they can read the mm scale correct

  14. #172
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Oh yes, I see, they are 40mm.

    Ha!

    I tried to order them, but there is something wrong. I will call them tomorrow.

  15. #173
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Here's pictures of the bracket: The gears I have at work are approximately 1" in diameter.
    I remember Ford used 38 DGAS with toothed sectors

    Here part 83

    38 DGAS/ES Diagram

  16. #174
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I gathered a bunch of small pulleys and gears from work. My choices led me in another direction. I decided to revisit the concept of levers and connecting rods that I maligned earlier. I came up with a concept that will work. I don't feel like describing all my thought processes, so I'll let the pics show how the idea evolved:

    IMG_4927.jpg IMG_4928.jpg IMG_4930.jpg IMG_4931.jpg IMG_4932.jpg IMG_4934.jpg IMG_4935.jpg IMG_4936.jpg IMG_4937.jpg IMG_4939.jpg

  17. #175
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    I went with two half moons.
    The only problem to dang easy to open the throttle....
    Lever action on the shaft with a moon will work.
    The Scifi Guy likes this.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  18. #176
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    The final design ready for welding. The throttle shaft is a @#$%! 7mm shaft. My Home Depot had 7mm nuts and bolts! This enabled me to reconfigure my design to make it simpler and easier to assemble and work with. The hex/ball that used to be on the throttle shaft screws onto the bolt and locks the center part of the bearing to the mounting plate. The black roller can spin freely. I drilled out the ball lever and the "fork" so that they can slide over and pivot around the hex/ball. Those two pieces will get welded at a 45* angle to each other to the black roller. All done!(Well, actually tomorrow, when I take it all to work to my welder guy).

    The hex/ball will remain fixed and the linkage shaft will pivot on it and rotate the ball lever and fork assemblage welded to the black roller. The turnbuckle will transfer this motion to the ball lever on the throttle shaft. I can adjust angles, distances, and the actuation point using the adjusters on the linkage and the turnbuckle.:


    Final design (1).jpg Final design (2).jpg Final design (3).jpg Final design (4).jpg Final design (5).jpg

  19. #177
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I ground away the excess circumference of my sealed bearing roller. I removed about 2/3's of the metal that was originally there. The welder dude at work was out of argon gas and I wasn't thrilled with the likelihood that my Midas muffler shop would probably charge me $100, so I took my assemblage to my 35+ year repair shop who had it for two days and still didn't get around to it until I walked in after work today and then their welder banged it out in about 15 minutes. Big sloppy massive overkill welds. The exact opposite of what I told him to do. Granted, he said their welding set up wasn't designed for small weld jobs. But, they did it for free, so who am I to complain? I took it to the grinder to clean it up some and hit it with some aluminum-colored engine paint. I acquired some stronger metal to make my final bracket design, so now I'm all set to complete the install of the manifold this weekend.


    Solid linkage pivot adapter for Steinmetz SSD (1).jpg Solid linkage pivot adapter for Steinmetz SSD (2).jpg Solid linkage pivot adapter for Steinmetz SSD (3).jpg Solid linkage pivot adapter for Steinmetz SSD (4).jpg
    GoinManta and kwschumm like this.

  20. #178
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Here's a video I made. Once again, I put my finger over the microphone midway through.:


    https://youtu.be/FJpRVewJ4fQ






    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-13-2017 at 07:48 PM.
    P.J. Romano likes this.

  21. #179
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Gil sent me some pictures of a solid linkage adapter concept that he came up with. It's similar to what Norbert had in mind:


    photo 3.jpg photo 1.jpg photo 2.jpg

  22. #180
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Gil sent me some pictures of a solid linkage adapter concept that he came up with. It's similar to what Norbert had in mind:


    photo 3.jpg photo 1.jpg photo 2.jpg
    And I can tell you why I would go direct to the carb with a U joint.
    All linkage balls add more play in it self.So the throttles will work not exactly every time!
    That only my small experience on knowledge when adjust the double downdraft carbs on my Kadett and Commodore.
    Most the throttle would not go as I want

    But I be sure you will find a solution at nightwork in the Opel lodge basement!

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