Volvo 240 Rear End Swap - Page 2
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Thread: Volvo 240 Rear End Swap

  1. #21
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Probably. Soft rubber, low exposed mount. The ones in mine practically fell out when I took the arms off. The link arm rubbers were also pretty soft.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Gary; 02-24-2014 at 11:43 AM. Reason: added more info
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  3. #22
    Opeler samdog's Avatar
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    Nice job Gary. I always thought that I was supposed to collect parts, I didn't know that they could be put together to make a car. Interesting concept.
    Gary, GoinManta and itb gt like this.

  4. #23
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Spent most of today chasing down a replacement pump for my lift jack. The pump (did I say it was made in China?) was full of oil and still would only go up half way. I ended up with a HF (Chinese) air over oil pump that is much easier to use.

    I did manage to tack the spring hats on and cut the nose off the trailing arms. Both arms are back in place and tomorrow, I'll re-align everything and weld the rod ends on. (Barring any more surprises!)

    The parts for the links will be here Thursday.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  6. #24
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Some pics. The last one was a hidden surprise on the stock arms.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Travis, samdog and Trevil like this.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  7. #25
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Gary, browsing through the Speedway catalogue, I found these arms: 15 Inch Swing Arm - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    Looks like they will be suitable for the rear axle conversion as they already have brackets for the braces to create that "triangle" support. They are available in various lengths. It might be easier than converting Volvo's trailing arms.
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    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  8. #26
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    Gary, browsing through the Speedway catalogue, I found these arms: 15 Inch Swing Arm - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    Looks like they will be suitable for the rear axle conversion as they already have brackets for the braces to create that "triangle" support. They are available in various lengths. It might be easier than converting Volvo's trailing arms.
    That swing arm would require coilovers or a different spring setup. Plus it is discontinued.

    The Volvo trailing arms are actually working out nicely in the Ascona.

    The spring hat sits on the top surface and is under the stock upper hat. After cutting off the Volvo body mount, the rod ends fit into the Opel body mounts with spacers taking up the slack. The Volvo link mounts on the rear end are angled slightly toward the trailing arms so the front joint of the adjustable links will line up and attach to a reinforced section of the trailing arm. All welding will be done on the arms so it will make it much easier for someone to take the arms to a weld shop and have the rod ends, spring hats and link bungs welded. The rear end will be adjustable in all planes.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  9. #27
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Rear end is roughed in place.
    Stopping power; Volvo rear disc brakes installed. Middle pic shows the ride height with the wagon rear springs. Needs to be ~2" lower. Gonna try a cut down Volvo progressive spring next.

    Some more pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  10. #28
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Cut 1 3/4 coil off the Volvo springs. The wagon is sitting ~2 inches higher in the back. Going to leave it that way for now and see if it settles down after driving it.

    Bolt on the links, fab a panhard bar and shock mounts, fine tune the alignment and then it's on to sheet metal work!
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  11. #29
    tomking My location tomking's Avatar
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    Looking good Gary.
    TMK

  12. #30
    Sick with Opelitus My location broszzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Rear end is roughed in place.
    Middle pic shows the ride height with the wagon rear springs. Needs to be ~2" lower. Gonna try a cut down Volvo progressive spring next.

    Some more pics.
    Have you thought about modifying your trailing arms, from the picture it looks like you could maybe recess the rear springs 2 - 3 inches. Those T/A's are a lot bigger then the ones you removed.

    Pat

  13. #31
    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Gary not to be "Picky" but any chance you have a picture with drawings and such to replicate the work for a machine shop..?

    Only ask, as I may go this route.. will know more once I get Atlas in hand.

    Pictures maybe worth a thousand words..

    But dimensional drawings can be worth Millions..
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
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    & many other Opels

  14. #32
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broszzy View Post
    Have you thought about modifying your trailing arms, from the picture it looks like you could maybe recess the rear springs 2 - 3 inches. Those T/A's are a lot bigger then the ones you removed.

    Pat
    I originally thought about doing it that way. There was only a 1 inch difference from the top of the arms to the stock Opel spring bucket location. Recessing the springs would have involved a lot more work on the arms. I am trying to keep this swap as simple as possible in case others want to try it.

    Looking at this swap now, modifying the shock towers and using coilovers would be a fairly easy alternative as the shocks are right over the Volvo spring location behind the axle.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  15. #33
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    Gary not to be "Picky" but any chance you have a picture with drawings and such to replicate the work for a machine shop..?

    Only ask, as I may go this route.. will know more once I get Atlas in hand.

    Pictures maybe worth a thousand words..

    But dimensional drawings can be worth Millions..
    I plan on doing a full write up with grocery list.

    Locating the rear end was a real pain in the rear end. Having the length of the trailing arms and panhard bar will save a lot of work for any future attempts.

    I still need to find the centerline of the wagon and set the track of the rear end to the body. My front suspension is all new and not in alignment. Plumb bob time!

    I will be using the Volvo driveshaft from the center joint back. Volvo C/J parts are easy to get and fairly inexpensive.

    Again, the beauty of this is all welding is done on the trailing arms, making it easier for those who do not have access to a welder. Brand new trailing arms are $69 ea.
    GoinManta likes this.
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  16. #34
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Looking at this swap now, modifying the shock towers and using coilovers would be a fairly easy alternative as the shocks are right over the Volvo spring location behind the axle.
    I told you so.
    Honestly, I do not like those massive Volvo trailing arms. Take another look here:
    19 Inch Swing Arm - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    You might find easy and elegant off-shelf solution. As I am building my 2.5 motor and I will likely have to undertake the same project in the near future.
    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  17. #35
    Opeler My location Bill Hoffmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Looking at this swap now, modifying the shock towers and using coilovers would be a fairly easy alternative as the shocks are right over the Volvo spring location behind the axle.
    I think you did it the right way, especially on a wagon. The stock spring location supports the car by the frame. I would feel better about that than even a modified shock tower.

    Bill

  18. #36
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    I told you so.
    Honestly, I do not like those massive Volvo trailing arms. Take another look here:
    19 Inch Swing Arm - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    You might find easy and elegant off-shelf solution. As I am building my 2.5 motor and I will likely have to undertake the same project in the near future.
    True, but another goal of this swap was to keep costs to a minimum. For under $700, I'll have a locker rear end with disc brakes that will handle the 24v's HP and it uses parts that are readily available.
    GoinManta and G.v.Mainberg like this.
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  19. #37
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann View Post
    I think you did it the right way, especially on a wagon. The stock spring location supports the car by the frame. I would feel better about that than even a modified shock tower.

    Bill
    I will be doing something to strengthen the shock towers (maybe even a roll bar/cage). RallyBob noted that there is a tendency for cracks to develop around the shock towers in wagons. They do not have the structural support that prevents flexing that the Mantas and sedans have.
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  20. #38
    Your Noble Friend ;-) My location G.v.Mainberg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    I will be doing something to strengthen the shock towers (maybe even a roll bar/cage). RallyBob noted that there is a tendency for cracks to develop around the shock towers in wagons. They do not have the structural support that prevents flexing that the Mantas and sedans have.
    Not only in wagons. I remember back in the 1980's when I got the Röhrl Rallye, the sheet metal around the shock mounting holes was completely broken out. Not deformed a bit, and no rust on it, just cracked clean apart from stress. "Spirited driving" from the first owner of the car, and red Konis do that easily...

    Dieter

  21. #39
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Progress

    I looked closely at the Volvo springs. The bottom coils were just about touching and the upper coils were doing all the work. I ended up cutting 1 1/2 coils off a set of Manta/Ascona front springs. They sit fine.

    The shock brackets are in place for welding and I am waiting for parts for the adjustable panhard bar. The Volvo bar has a bend in it to clear the pumpkin so I will add adjustment bar and link to the body side mount.

    Final adjustments will be made once the bar is in place.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  22. #40
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Finished!
    The wheels are centered. The panhard bar and sway bar are in place.

    Pluses for the Volvo 240 rear end:
    • Dana 30 diff. Same as a jeep. many ratios available
    • Parts readily available
    • G-80 locker on '92 204's fits right into older ones
    • Disc brakes
    • All welding is done on the Volvo trailing arms (new ones are ~$70.00)
    • Trailing arms and brackets for links are on the same axis
    • Fully adjustable in all planes
    • Same width as Manta/Ascona diff
    • Front of trailing arms are very close to Opel body mounts
    • Uses stock Volvo sway bar
    • Volvo 240 diffs are common in salvage yards

    Minuses:
    • Axles need to be drilled for 4x100 bolt pattern if using Opel rims (5x108 is stock)
    • Springs need to be cutdown (recessing the springs into the trailing arms will eliminate this)
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    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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