Quaife LSD

[opelkid69]

Can i swap a Quaife LSD into the rear axel of a 72' GT with no hassle? Will this LSD work with no problems, or are the axels going to be too weak? Dropping in a high horsepower Nissan engine. This would be a nice option because of no difficult suspesions mods.

Any ideas if this could happen?

[GTJIM]

The Quaffie LSD is very expensive - like $US1,200 ish and not always available.
Also you would still have the small and weak 6 1/2" '10-bolt' GM diff.
For a similar price to the Quaffie LSD unit you could fit a narrowed 7.5/7.625" late Camaro 10-bolt with the Torsen LSD (same type as the Quaffie LSD!) with a fabricated 5-link suspension set-up.
Most any Hot Rod or Circle Track build shop should be able to do the job and you would have a diff with plenty of spares ..... and disc brakes!

[RallyBob]

Jim's points are very valid. But the real issue after you put in a Quaife is you still have that wimpy torque tube shaft in there. The weakest link will always break first. It WILL break if you are putting out enough power. Find a swap with strong aftermarket support, whether it's a GM 7.5", Ford 8", Toyota 8"....or whatever.

[opelkid69]

Alright, thanks alot! It just seems that a fab job of the 5-link would be a awfull headache. How about having someone fabricating new, stronger left and right driveshafts to put into the stock rear axle? Maybe im blowing wind, haha. The other options seem to be what everyone else is going with.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by opelkid69 Alright, thanks alot! It just seems that a fab job of the 5-link would be a awfull headache. How about having someone fabricating new, stronger left and right driveshafts to put into the stock rear axle? Maybe im blowing wind, haha. The other options seem to be what everyone else is going with.

The axles are pretty strong. It's the torque tube shaft (leading from the driveshaft into the pinion) that is weak. If you make that part strong enough, then the axles will break, right at the splines where they neck down smaller. The axles themselves are quite big, about 1 5/8", but they neck down where they fit into the differential.

You could 3-link the axle pretty easily. Use the stock lower spring buckets from the Opel axle, and the stock trailing arms. Weld the spring buckets to the donor axle. Use the stock-type panhard attachment. All you need to do it make a custom upper (3rd) link, or even a pair of upper links to make it a true 4-link. With the OEM torque tube Opel uses, there is no stock upper link, the tube works as the upper link.

Here's one axle swap done by a forum member here: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/engine-...ht=toyota+axle

Bob

[opelnut10]

The GM (camero) 10 bolt is the way to fly. Plenty of parts available, large selection of gears, disc brakes and just about bulletproof in an Opel. Moser will sell you a housing (made to order as far as width) along with axles with any bolt pattern you want on the flanges. Use the stock spring buckets and make up a torque arm to run along side the driveshaft, which will also have to be redone,and make up an adjustable pannard bar. I used the stock trail arms with a hime in the rear an solid plug in the front, I tied the torque arm in at the transmission cross-member and used a stock pannard bar with himes for ajustment side to side. I run a 3:73 gear in the rear with a posi and use the S-10 T-5 transmission. Car is very driveable and not darty at any speed (I have seen 125 on the dial) with 160-165 HP and it had a little more left but I was running out of road

[PROPEL]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 I used the stock trail arms with a hime in the rear an solid plug in the front, I tied the torque arm in at the transmission cross-member and used a stock pannard bar with himes for ajustment side to side.

Got pics of your setup?

[opelkid69]

do you think the gm 10 bolt can hold more than 300 poinies? thats what im really looking for, somthing that can handle high horsepower without alot of sups. mods.

[opelnut10]

The weakest parts in the 10 bolt is the spider gears and axles. If you get axles made that solves that problem, and using c-clip elimanators helps with the diff. 300hp will not be a problem on the rearend. I don't know what you are going to get 300hp out of in an Opel but if you are really worried, and you are chopping the car anyway, a 9 inch FOOOOOOOOOOORD with 35 spline aftermarket axles, a four link tied into the frame you are going to have to put under it and a Nodular Iron third member will SURE stay with it