Measurements?

[finalrights]

I've tried the search feature, but no luck so far. I'm looking for the height/width/length of the Opel GT engine bay. If I could also find the same for the 2.4l CID Opel engine swap, that would be great also. Thanks.

[baz]

if you mean the 2.4 l "CIH" engine its the same size as the 1.9 and is a bolt in

the bay itself i do not have sizes for now but im sure some one will post them soon

welcome to the site btw

[namba209]

I posted these pics some years ago for someone who wanted the measurements. Hope they load O.K. Nope they didn't load, but the site referred me to the original thread with the pics. HTH.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/engine-...imensions.html

[finalrights]

Thanks, these should be made a bit clearer and archived. Very useful information.

Edit:Any idea what the numbers are? I'm assuming that is a yard stick, but the numbers are hard to see thanks to either the flash or reflection of the sun.

[namba209]

I'll try to redo the pics tomorrow. It may be a bit harder with the V-6 installed but what the heck, anything to help folks out.

[finalrights]

Is your V6 a 60 or 90 degree?

[baz]

search for "willit" thread all will be revealed

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/engine-...it-update.html

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by baz search for "willit" thread all will be revealed http://www.opelgt.com/forums/engine-...it-update.html

Baz, if he reads that whole thread we may not hear from him again for 6 months.

Harold

[namba209]

You're right Harold, there are 824 posts in that thread and over 49,000 folks have viewed it. Of course all this took place in the past 7 years. Could be the longest running, active thread on the site, IDK. Anyway to make it easier on the guy, my V-6 is a 95 Camaro, 3.4L SFI 60 degree bolted to an 88 bellhousing coupled to a 92 S-10 T-5 non-world class.

Here's the revised pics as promised and the dimensions in case you can't see them on the tape.

From Radiator support to the rear engine seal structure: 25"
Inside hood lip to the opposite side, along the radiator support: 33"
From the ground to the bottom edge of the angle aluminum strip: 29"

HTH

[finalrights]

These two photos are from TWOBRUTAL MR2

You have to be a member in order to read threads, so I posted the photos with the link to give those guys credit.

Now, for the meat and potatoes of this post. That looks like it may fit, and it isn't an expensive engine option either. 4 liter quad cam v8 with 256 hp and 260 ft lb torque. Thoughts?

[oldopelguy]

That motor is far too wide to fit in a GT.

The measurements so far don't really tell the tale. The biggest issue in a GT is that the frame rails are @22.5" apart, which the exhaust manifolds have to fit within, and that the firewall is contoured around the back of the Opel motor's head and intake manifold. You don't have the full width of the engine bay available unless you take out the master-cylinder and it's push-rod and then you only get that full width on the front half of the engine.

To get the full width for the engine you either need to move it forward of the Opel engine's position about 14" or you need to cut out and replace the firewall. Moving it forward changes the weight balance and the radiator has to go in the front because you lose the rad support. Re-contouring the firewell means losing your footwells, so now where are you going to sit?

Either way you have to cut out some major supporting sheetmetal, which means the next step is to weld in enough support to re-strengthen the car.

I don't mean to discourage, but the engine bay in an Opel GT is very small and you're going to need a lot more measurements or trial fitting to find soemthing easy to fit.

[namba209]

Stephen, you made some very good points. I had to cut out the wiper well and the foot well on the driver's side, as most of you know to drop the V-6 in Willit? One thing about the described engine in this thread, that hasn't been addressed, so far, is the driveline will have to be replaced. There's no way the rear-end can handle that much HP and torque. Even after that's done, the car will end up being a drifter, with way too much HP and torque to keep the wheels from spinning, even under light throttle applications. The car is just too light for that much HP to hook up to the road. IMHO.

[bigben]

Originally Posted by namba209 Even after that's done, the car will end up being a drifter, with way too much HP and torque to keep the wheels from spinning, even under light throttle applications. The car is just too light for that much HP to hook up to the road. IMHO.

ahh... just get some good rubber for the back end and throw a few sand bags back where the spare tire is supposed to be. Who really needs a spare any way.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by finalrights Is your V6 a 60 or 90 degree?

Ron's V6 is a Chevy 3.4, which is the same family as the 2.8 and 3.1, and to emphasize what he wrote, it is a 60 degree engine. And it is the push rod 60 degree V6, NOT the quad cam 24 valve 3.4, which is MUCH wider while still a 60 degree block.

The 4.3 V6 is a 90 degree engine, basically a cut down SBC V8. The 90 degree engines are WAY wider than the 60 degree engines, although some members have managed to stuff them into a GT engine bay.

That Toyota V8 looks wider than any of the engines mentioned above.

Originally Posted by finalrights These two photos are from TWOBRUTAL MR2 That looks like it may fit, and it isn't an expensive engine option either. 4 litre quad cam V8 with 256 hp and 260 ft lb torque. Thoughts?

Not expensive? Um, compared to what? That looks like the Lexus 4 litre, and it would have to be mated to the matching Toyota drivetrain (at least the transmission) and be equipped with all the engine management paraphernalia. I drive an IS300, and the local Lexus tuner installed a Lexus (aka Toyota) V8 in one for the Lexus factory (sort a pre-build IS-F three years ago) and he virtually had to dismantle the front end to get all the parts to fit, and then use a shoe horn to get it inside the fenders. Cost? Easily $20k just for the big pieces.

I agree with Stephen (oldopelguy). Without EXTENSIVE frame and sheet metal modifications, akin to a full framed drag car with a V8, there is no way that the Toyota DOHC V8 (or any twin cam V engine, 6 or 8) will fit between the GT fenders, let alone the frame rails.

And the other issues you will face are the oil pan clearance to the cross member, and the height of the engine. Neither looks promising for that engine, although (again), extensive modifications can get it to fit. Heck, some folks have installed the Cadillac big block 572, although there might not be much OEM sheet metal left when they were through.

HTH

[SSGDirk]

Look unless you are doing it just say you stuck a big engine in a little space, there are more realistic options that will give you the same HP. Like a Super Charged ECOTEC 2.0L out of a Cobalt SS comes stock with 260 HP and should fit, at least alot easier than trying to stick a V8 in there. I see them for sale on Ebay all the time.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by SSGDirk Look unless you are doing it just say you stuck a big engine in a little space, there are more realistic options that will give you the same HP. Like a Super Charged ECOTEC 2.0L out of a Cobalt SS comes stock with 260 HP and should fit, at least alot easier than trying to stick a V8 in there. I see them for sale on Ebay all the time.

Too true, but the weak link on any Opel is what's behind the engine. You can't just drop in another engine with 200+ HP and expect the drive train to hold up. Something's gonna break and you're gonna hafta change what broke. That's just the way it is. I'm still being extra careful getting Willit? to move from a dead stop, with only 140.3 HP and 170 ft.lbs. of torque at the rear wheels. If I get on the gas too hard after it's rolling, in 1st gear, both rear wheels break loose. Half-throttle is enuff to get you pushed back in the seat.

[finalrights]

As far as price on the 1uz, they can be had for ~$1000 USD here. After much reading, I'm thinking going a strong 4cylinder would be a better choice. I know Nissan motors, so that is what I'll stick with. The KA24DE is probably enough for this car, 155hp/160ft lb.

[bigben]

Originally Posted by finalrights I'm thinking going a strong 4cylinder would be a better choice. I know Nissan motors, so that is what I'll stick with. The KA24DE is probably enough for this car, 155hp/160ft lb.

If your thinking Nissan you might want to check out some others that may be lighter: the CA18DET(175 hp), SR20DE (134 - 165 hp), SR20DET (205 hp), SR20VE (187 - 204 hp), or the screaming little brother SR16VE (175 hp @7800 rpm) I think the SR16 only came in fwd cars so it may be a little more difficult, but it sure sounds cool . . . 175hp 1.6L aluminum engine

Nissan CA engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Nissan SR engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

VVL - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[finalrights]

Both the sr and ka family of motors are iron blocks. Using a KA would actually be lighter, since there would be no turbo, innercooler, etc.

[OpelNewb]

Nissan motors are pretty good setups. I have thought about buying a totalled S2000 and using the comlete drivetrain out of it. I believe it comes in at 240HP. In a Opel that's nothing to laugh at!! It would more than likely smoke my 08 STi provided I could keep the tires from smoking off the back of the opel.

Another nissan motor that I remember as being pretty good was the z24 engine used in the pickups and the 200SX in the early 80's. My 200SX was capable of hitting 135mph (i let off) it was a tire smoking little car and would also be a pretty neat swap.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by OpelNewb Nissan motors are pretty good setups. I have thought about buying a totalled S2000....

Um, you mean a Honda S2000? Or are these two distinct thoughts?