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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2009
Location: colorado
Posts: 4
Real Name: Ethan kircher
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Answered: 2.4L power
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Most Helpful Answer - Posted by GTJIM
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There are a couple of ways of getting a 2.4L motor: 1) Buying a late 2.4 Opel Omega or Frontera motor - the problem here is that the 2.4 fuel injection system will not fit under a GT hood and the 1.9/2.0 L manifolds do not bolt up. So you have to get a late 3.0L six-cylinder Opel unit cut down and modified to fit - or find a set of rarer carb manifolds. 2) Building a 2.4 from a 1.9L (has to be bored out to the limit) or 2.0L block (right sized bore) Then getting a 1.9L crankshaft 'stroked' by welding it up and recutting the crank pins. A 2.4L crank does not fit directly into the 1.9/2.0L Block as clearance has to be ground around the oil gallery. Both quite expensive ways to go. The stock, late model 2.4L Opel motor is rated at about 125 horsepower. This can be increased to more than 200 hp with the usual engine modifications. A good 1.9L motor bored out to 2.0L will give you 120 to 140 bhp - just not as much torque as a 2.4L motor. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saginaw, MI
Posts: 1,279
Real Name: Jon
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Using the search engine turned up quite a few good forums..
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-en...t-started.html http://www.opelgt.com/forums/engine-...2-4l-swap.html http://www.opelgt.com/forums/general...rag-240-a.html
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Current 1970 GT; Under Construction Previous 1969 GT; Street/Strip Project 1969 GT; White with Black Interior, Automatic 1969 GT; Black Parts Car 1969 GT; White Parts Car 1970 GT; Silver with Red Interior 1971 GT; Orange with Black Interior, Turbo 1972 GT; Red Parts Car 1972 GT; Blue with Black Interior 1973 GT; Pearl Blue with Black interior. Full body kit. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Ways to Go ...
There are a couple of ways of getting a 2.4L motor: 1) Buying a late 2.4 Opel Omega or Frontera motor - the problem here is that the 2.4 fuel injection system will not fit under a GT hood and the 1.9/2.0 L manifolds do not bolt up. So you have to get a late 3.0L six-cylinder Opel unit cut down and modified to fit - or find a set of rarer carb manifolds. 2) Building a 2.4 from a 1.9L (has to be bored out to the limit) or 2.0L block (right sized bore) Then getting a 1.9L crankshaft 'stroked' by welding it up and recutting the crank pins. A 2.4L crank does not fit directly into the 1.9/2.0L Block as clearance has to be ground around the oil gallery. Both quite expensive ways to go. The stock, late model 2.4L Opel motor is rated at about 125 horsepower. This can be increased to more than 200 hp with the usual engine modifications. A good 1.9L motor bored out to 2.0L will give you 120 to 140 bhp - just not as much torque as a 2.4L motor.
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Supercharged 2.4
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 619
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The 2.4 motor mounts themselves do not work BUT the 1.9l motor mounts use the same bolt pattern so you can simply swap your 1.9l mounts onto a 2.4l block and it will bolt right up. I did notice a few differences in the smaller bolts for the bellhousing but all of major bolt locations match up. If you are looking for a 2.4 euro engine try and get one from an Omega A, they have less counter weights on the crank and a smaller flywheel compared to the later SUV 2.4 engines.
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1972 Opel GT: 2.4, big brakes, efi - inprogress
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 4,079
Real Name: Keith Wilford
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Keith Wilford working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: pueblo colorado
Posts: 184
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I had Dennis from OpelGTSource send me a bunch of info a while back. Here is some it.
The 2.4L is the largest stroked crankshaft Opel CIH engine, using a special redesigned block, special forged crankshaft that is fully counter weighted, special forged piston rods, special full floating pistons,as well as the special intake runner cylinder head, with 1/2 inch raised intake ports, that use the largest valves. 2.4L Specs: -Bore 95mm and the stoke is 85mm: 48mm intake valves & 41mm exhaust valves. -2.4L European model: 136HP at the wheels @ 5200 rpm (151HP @ the flywheel) -9.4:1 compression pistons: 151ft. lbs. Torque @ 2400-2800 rpm The Use of your 4 speed transmission are no longer acceptable, the 2.4L is way too powerful for the stock Opel 4 speed to handle the torque & HP of the 2.4L. 5 speeds & automatic transmissions are a fine choice behind a 2.4L engine. Stock 8 inch flywheels & clutches not strong enough to handle the HP & torque of the 2.4L engine. The 2.4L engine requires the largest 9.0 inch flywheel & clutch to handle the HP & torque generated by a stock 2.4L. a. 9.0 inch Pressure Plate & Clutch Disk, part # 8043 b.Throw Out (release) Bearing, part # 8005 c. Pilot Bearing, part # 8006 d. 9.0" USED Flywheel, or New 9.0" Flywheel e. 2.4L Flywheel Bolts, part # 6101 (6x needed) NOTE: Again with both the 2.2L & the 2.4L engines Stock EFI, or after market dual side drafts must be used, or the Stock 1.9L intake manifold can be modified to fit these engines as well. Again this is a lot of info. But is necessary for you to make an informed decision. FAQ, What do your engines come with?: The engines we sell, is the same as if you went to a GM dealer to get a replacement SB Chevy 350 engine. The engines come with Block, Head, Timing Cover, and Oil pan for shipping purposes & a Valve Cover.. But these engines "Do Not" come with Fuel Injection, Starter, Alternator, Intake or Exhaust Manifolds, Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Engine Mount Brackets, etc. FAQ, 2.2L or 2.4L EFI swap: What if I want to EFI the engine and chassis? Following are the steps needed to Prep your GT and chassis for EFI. What Manifolds do I need to use? Stock Opel EFI 2.0L (for 1.9L or 2.0L engines) or, The 2.2L intake manifold (for the 2.2L or the 2.4L engines). 1. To run EFI in any car that did not originally come with EFI needs to be prepped. a. The GT fuel tank (unless you have a 1973 GT gas tank) will need to be removed and have a fitting, and tube welded onto it for the EFI fuel return hose. b. Also, IF the fuel tank is dirty or rusty, this must be cleaned or sealed before it can be used for EFI, but still is recommended even if you run a carburetor. 2. The stock fuel hoses under the GT must be removed steel fuel lines must be run. 3. A high pressure fuel pump system & matching fuel filter must also be fitted. 4. Under the hood, the hood latch needs to be shortened to clear the intake manifold. 5. The passenger side "hood hook", must be removed (except for 1969 GT hoods). 6. A large diameter hole must be drilled into the passenger foot well to route the EFI computer harness. 7. Mount the Throttle EFI Bracket 8. Modify the drivers throttle rod to accept the EFI throttle cable Note: I may have missed a step or to here, but this gets you a good overview. A Used 2.0L EFI system comes with: A. Intake Manifold 2.0L (fits 1.9L & 2.0L cylinder heads) B. Throttle Plate C. Air Flow Meter D. Boot, Air Flow Meter to Throttle Body E. 2.0L Thermostat Housing F. Fuel Injectors G. Computer H. Wiring Harness I. EFI Distributer & Module A Used 2.2L EFI system comes with: A. Intake Manifold 2.2L (fits 2.2L & 2.4L cylinder heads) B. Throttle Plate C. Air Flow Meter D. Boot, Air Flow Meter to Throttle Body E. 2.2L, 2.4L Thermostat Housing F. Fuel Injectors G. Computer H. Wiring Harness I. EFI Distributer & Module Other things to install EFI to a GT chassis, for the 1.9L to 2.4L EFI system configurations: 1. High Pressure Fuel Pump (part # 16022 ) 2. High Pressure Fuel pump Assembly (used), when available 3. EFI Fuel Filter (part # 15054 ) 4. EFI Pre-Filter 5 a. 2.0L EFI Throttle Cable (part # 16014 ) or 5 b. 2.2L EFI Throttle Cable (part # 16015 ) 6. EFI Throttle to Drivers foot Well Bracket (part # 16003 ) 7. GT Air Filter Adaptor (part # 16001 ) 8. K&N Filter for GT Air Filter Adaptor (part # 16002 9. 2.0L to 2.4L Upper radiator Hose (part# 16019 10 a. 2.0L Lower Radiator Hose, part # 16020 or 10 b. 2.2L or 2.4L Lower Radiator Hose 11 a. 2.0L By-Pass Hose (part # 15044 or 11 b. 2.2L or 2.4L By-Pass Hose (part # 16013 FAQ, Alternative Induction for the 2.0L, 2.2L or 2.4L EFI swaps: Can I install Dual Side Draft manifolds and carburetor, instead of EFI? Of course you may install Dual Weber Side Draft carburetors. This of course is its own trouble as well with some serious sheet metal modifications under the GT hood, at the heater box area. 1.9L or 2.0L Engine: Dual Side draft manifolds are available in the USA from TWM Induction, in S. CA. These manifolds will only fit the 1.9L or 2.0L engines. The GT engine compartment will need to have the heater box area cut to clear the rear side draft carburetor and air cleaner assembly. 2.2L or 2.4L Engine: Dual Side draft manifolds are available from Germany. These special manifolds will only fit the 2.2L & 2.4L engines. 2.2L or 2.4L Manifolds, part # 9048 FAQ, Alternative Induction for the 2.0L, 2.2L or 2.4L with out going to EFI conversion: Can I install a stock 1.9L intake & exhaust manifolds, instead of EFI or side drafts? 1.9L or 2.0L No problem, this configuration will be a bolt-on, as these engines use the same intake & exhaust port configurations. 2.2L or 2.4L Modifications must be made to the stock 1.9L intake manifold to fit onto a 2.2L or 2.4L engine. How to modifying the stock 1.9L intake manifold for the 2.2L or 2.4L. Note: This is the least desirable option as the stock intake will reduce the HP potential, for the 2.2L & 2.4L engines. You can expect around a 5 to 10 HP loss in performance. The 1.9L intake must be raised about 1/2 inch higher on the support stock 1.9L exhaust manifold. The intake to exhaust manifold Hold Down Bolt holes to the exhaust manifold will need to be enlarged, and longer bolts secured. A 1/2 " spacer will need to be placed between the intake and the exhaust manifolds for support. Next 2x new alignment dowel holes will need to be drilled into the intake 1/2 inch lower, to fit to the new cylinder head configuration. Once the intake & exhaust manifolds are fitted, the assembly is bolted to the engine, aligned & torqued into place. FAQ, What Transmissions can I use with the 2.0L, 2.2L or 2.4L engines?: May I retain the stock 4 speed or automatic and save my money for a later 5 speed conversion package? Yes, you can continue to use a stock 4 speed with a 2.0L Opel engine, IF you are not abusive & the 4 speed is in excellent condition. But if you are going to a 2.2L or a 2.4L engine the 4 speed (even in excellent condition) will not last very long!! For the 2.2L & 2.4L we strongly recommend using a 5 speed or automatic. A good condition 1.9L GT automatic is fine to use behind a 2.0L, 2.2L or 2.4L application. 5 Speed Transmissions: 5 speeds Used un-modified, part # 8038 5 speeds Rebuilt un-modified, part # 8038R 5 speed Conversions for a 4 speed GT car: Note: Automatic to 5 speed conversion will require additional parts. Note: To perform all of the modifications for you, I will need: A. Your Opel 4 speed or Automatic Drive Shaft for conversion to 5 speed use. B. Supply you with the 5 speed Thrust Spring C. Provide you the U-Joint Lock plates D. Your 4 speed transmission cross member shipped in to us, so I may modify it for 5 speed use E. Modify & Shortening the 5 speed Shifter Linkage F. Provide you the Speedometer Gear G. Provide you the Speedometer Inner & Outer Seals H. Provide you the Special Synthetic Gear Oil I am breaking down the procedures (and costs) MAINLY for the 2.4L, since you were MOST interested in the largest engine 1. To let you know what comes & does not come with a European 2.0L to 2.4L engine. 2. To let you know the special oil pan issue to fit a 2.4L into a GT. 3. EFI costs & parts 4. Preparing the GT chassis to accept EFI 6. 5 Speed Transmissions, costs & notes 7. 5 Speed Conversion Kit 8. Clutch required for the 2.4L 9. Items I have left out, that you may consider doing to make your GT reliable. 1. What do the 2.0L to 2.4L engine Come with, and Do Not come with: The engines come with Block, Head, Timing Cover, and Oil pan & Valve cover for shipping purposes. These engines "Do Not" come with: A. Fuel Injection B. Starter C. Alternator D. Intake or Exhaust Manifolds E. Water Pump F. Fuel Pump G. Engine Mount Brackets H. Oil Sender Unit I. Crank Shaft Pulley J. Thermostat Housing, etc. 2. The First Thing that you need to change Or we change to make ONLY if you go with a 2.4L engine fit in the GT Chassis: First the Oil Pan for the 2.4L engine needs to be swapped for a 1.9L GT that had a steel oil pan. The Oil pan, the Dipstick, the Oil Pick up Tube & the special 2.4L tube bracket and the steel oil pan dipstick guide tube must be used together as a matched set in the GT chassis. -The aluminum oil pan from a earlier GT will not clear the 2.4L crankshaft. the aluminum pan will fit a 2.0L or a 2.2L Opel engine, but not the 2.4L engine. Also, the 2.4L engine needs to have a rear dipstick hole drilled into the block to accept the dipstick & dipstick guide tube for the steel oil pan. You will also need the Vibration Bracket for the Oil Pick up tube. Part # 6082 The Dipstick Tube part # 6081 (currently not available) & the Steel Pan Dipstick part # 6074 Last edited by kwilford; 07-25-2009 at 09:24 PM. Reason: edited prices out of post and cleaned up |
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3 out of 3 members found this post helpful. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Paris, France, EEC.
Posts: 942
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not true: valves are 45mm/40mm, rods are steel but not forged, output is 125hp @ FW, actual CR is more like 9. Hiro Last edited by kwilford; 07-13-2009 at 09:57 PM. Reason: cleaning thread |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: germany
Posts: 13
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Hello,
@ Hiro, I think, the "opelgtmaster" has mixed some details. There are two different 2,4CIH engines existing. 1. the 24E, used in the Opel Manta B I240. It was a special edition, produced by Irmscher. It´s output was 136PS at the crank. It was operating with all the forged stuff of the 400 engines.(except the pistons) The valve size was 45/40. It was mounted a nearly simmilar to the 2,0E head.(valve size was less in the 2,0E). 2. the C24NE, used in the Omega/Frontera, with an output of 125PS. This was the engine using the head with the highrised intakerunners. Valve size was 45/40. The only head with the valve size 48/41 I knew, was the group 2 (sweden) head. To use the C24NE head in a GT will be difficult. Even with the Weber side draft application, using the shortest intake manyfould, you have to cut out the heating box, I think. Well done C24NE engines are capable to produce 180 hp with the LE-jetronic, 230 with 45-weber, group 2 racing engines up to 260hp and more. regards Jörg Last edited by yellowstorm.racing; 07-06-2009 at 06:22 PM. Reason: a lot of mistakes, caused by my miserable english |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Paris, France, EEC.
Posts: 942
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I don't think Irmscher used any A400 parts for his I240 version, Who would just use a 10,000 euro groupB bottom end for just a 136hp output? IMO this I240 was just a stock 2.4 with a fast road camshaft! Cheers, Hiro |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: germany
Posts: 13
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Hi Hiro,
sorry, but I don´t think so. Remember, the 400 engines were build in 1978. Irmscher used the crank of the homologation cars. These dohc engines had produced only poor 144PS. The I 240 was produced in very early 80´th. The first C24NE came out in ´88 (Í dont want to swear this)first time. So the crank of the C24E was not yet available in that time. The only other crank with a 85mm stroke was from the 2,3diesel. I think, the cam was a standard 2,0E (same item #) The fast road cam was used in the I200 (2,0E with 125 PS output). Hiro, the 10.000€ are the price for those parts now, at that time, a complete 400 engine was priced by 8500.-DM, means 4250.-€. O tempora, o mores. By the way, are your roller rockers running now? regards Jörg Last edited by yellowstorm.racing; 07-07-2009 at 10:51 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Paris, France, EEC.
Posts: 942
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Genau Jörg that was long before the euro came into our wallets! Yes my roller rockers are running with your custom alu lifters, I made a first test-fit without your lash caps, I now need to do the test-fit with the lash caps & check rocker geometry, Very slow progress because I have some health problems unfortunately. MfG, Hiro ps: sorry for off-topic |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 4,079
Real Name: Keith Wilford
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The posts relating to the discussion on the possible proprietary e-mail above have been deleted due their increasingly unpleasant tone and generally rude behaviour. The parties that contributed to this will be privately admonished and placed on watch. Don't make us call your momma!
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Keith Wilford working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,436
Real Name: Bob Legere
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Bob
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: germany
Posts: 13
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Hi Bob,
the sweden-head never came from Opel itself. It was a creation of the swedish Opel- dealer Team. I´m sorry, I´ve never saw an unmachined casting of these heads. May be, the molds had been designed for using all valve diameters up from 42/37. The homologation papers show us, the maximum Valvediameter was 48/42. (baby-valves for a SBC, but giants in a CIH) It seems, I´m unable tu upload the pictures. But you can take a look here: Der Schwedenkopf von Opel regards Jörg Last edited by yellowstorm.racing; 07-10-2009 at 08:09 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,436
Real Name: Bob Legere
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Perhaps I will take some photos of these heads in their existing as-cast condition, as it seems that finding 'new' Swedenheads is not very easy to do! Bob
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Living in the past
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 1,368
Real Name: Lloyd
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Swedish Group II head
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,436
Real Name: Bob Legere
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__________________
My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 4,079
Real Name: Keith Wilford
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Dennis Gardiner of Opel GT Source has graciously supplied the following information regarding the Opel CIH 2.4, to replace the original information that was posted by opelgtmaster3. In order to reduce the confusion caused by some incomplete and inaccurate information in the original post, I have edited it and some subsequent posts that provided corrections.
From: Dennis Gardiner Sent: July 13, 2009 12:07 PM To: Keith Wilford Subject: RE: Opel GT web site Dear Keith Per your request, here are the engine specs. "To the best of my knowledge", the text is correct. But I'm sure someone will find a problem. The CIH engine family started in 1968 with the 1.5 & 1.9 L engines and has grown to include engines from them until 1994 with the last 2.4 L engine to roll out of Germany's Opel factories. 1.9 L specs: The 1.9 Ls (all) use steel crankshafts (not cast) and almost all use forged rods (except for late 1974-75)* Specifications: 1.9 L 93 mm bore, the stroke is 69.8 mm., 39 mm intake and 33 mm exhaust valves Most build their 1.9 L engines to this version -1968-70 US model: 90 HP at the wheels @ 4800-5100 rpm (102 HP @ the flywheel) 9.0:1 compression pistons: 115 ft. lbs. Torque @ 2800-3200 rpm For comparison, the later model smog engines (these again can be converted to the Higher 1.9 L HP specs!!) -1971-75 US model: 75-78 HP (depending on smog specs) at the wheels @ 4800-5100 rpm (90 HP @ the flywheel) 7.6:1 compression pistons: 111 ft. lbs. Torque @ 2800-3200 rpm 2.0 L E Specs: -95 mm bore, the stroke is 69.8 mm.; 42 mm intake & 36 mm exhaust valves -2.0 L European model: 110 HP at the wheels @ 5200 rpm (125 HP @ the flywheel) -9.4:1 compression pistons: 117 ft. lbs.. Torque @ 3400-3800 rpm NOTE: The 1.9 L & the 2.0 L engines use the same "configuration" intake ports on the cylinder head. 1.9 L intake & exhaust manifolds can be used on the 2.0 L cylinder head with no modifications. 2.2 L Specs: -Bore 95 mm, and the stroke is 77.5 mm; 45 mm intake valves & 40 mm exhaust valves. -2.2 L European model: 115 HP at the wheels @ 5200 rpm (130 HP @ the flywheel) -9.4:1 compression pistons: 130 ft. lbs.. Torque @ 3400-3800 rpm The use of a 4 speed transmission and 8 inch clutch is no longer acceptable, the 2.2 L is too powerful for the stock 4 speed. 5 speeds & automatic transmissions are fine. 2.4 L Specs: -Bore 95 mm and the stoke is 85 mm: 45 mm intake valves & 40 mm exhaust valves. -2.4 L European model: 125 HP at the wheels @ 4800 rpm (140 HP @ the flywheel) -9.2:1 compression pistons: 144 ft. lbs. Torque @ 2400-2800 rpm The use of a 4 speed transmission and 8 inch clutch is no longer acceptable, the 2.4 L is too powerful for the stock 4 speed. 5 speeds & automatic transmissions are fine. NOTE: The 2.2 L and 2.4 L engines have raised intake ports and require either: Stock Opel EFI, after market dual side drafts, or a modified stock 1.9 L intake manifold (which will limit HP.) What Manifolds do I need to use? Stock Opel EFI 2.0 L (for 1.9 L or 2.0 L engines) or, The 2.2 L intake manifold (for the 2.2 L or the 2.4 L engines). Note, Oil Pans 2.0: Your original stock (steel or aluminum) oil pan, oil pick-up tube, bracket dipstick tube and dipstick must be retained and swapped as a 'complete set" and re-used on the 2.0 L engine. Note, Oil Pans 2.2 & 2.4: Steel Oil pans 2.4 L's must use a steel oil pan, oil pick-up tube, bracket dipstick tube and dipstick must be retained and swapped as a 'complete set" and used on the 2.2 or 2.4 L engine. HTH Dennis
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Keith Wilford working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon Last edited by kwilford; 07-25-2009 at 09:25 PM. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
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And the confusion ain't getting any better.
How can my little street motor 2.0L(that runs circles around the 69-70 1.9 with the so called high compression pistons) get lower numbers on the dyno? Unless where comparing SAE to Metric. And I've been told that the dynojet's spits out higher numbers. Go figure! Sorry this is BS! |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,436
Real Name: Bob Legere
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Example: 1970 Opel 1.9 litre engine. Rated at 90 PS in Europe. This converts over to about 88 SAE net HP. However, they were rated at 102 SAE gross HP as installed in the Opel GT and Kadett. Exact same engine, specs identical, just a different rating system. To further add confusion, such an engine would be lucky to produce 75 hp at the rear wheels...really lucky. Bob
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Kalifornia Kid
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Soulsbyville, CA
Posts: 356
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Dennis Here
All true about Hp numbers. Add to this;
1) GM (in the 60&70s) did 'manipulate' the numbers higher or lower as marketing ploys or for insurance reasons respectively. 2) Often engines were tested on a dyno with no parasitic losses, such as: no fan, no alternator, no a/c, no full exhaust etc. 3) I'm sure others can add to this. But suffice it to say, we/I can only 'publish' what was submitted by Opel. Today with chassis dynos, many owners are disappointed with the poor showing of HP numbers. Much of this is attributed to the numerous drive line and ancillary Hp losses, such as (but not exclusive to: State of engine tune; Outside air temperature, pressure and humidity; Exhaust configuration, header or muffler type; Synthetic oil or conventional oil in the engine, transmission and differential; Drum brake shoe drag; Fan and Alternator drag; Tire pressure; Rubber tire defection (hydrid cars often use extremely low resistance specialty tires),... and the list goes on and on. Hopefully this will allays some of the reasons as to 'Why' book specs. (based on idealized & optimized conditions) are often dramatically different from 'Real World' results.
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Drifting: dorifuto sōkō, a motor sport where the driver intentionally oversteers, causing loss of traction in the rear wheels through turns, while preserving vehicle control. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Norway
Posts: 64
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Not sure where those numbers came from but here in Europe the official HP numbers were as follows
1.9S = 90 2.0S = 100 2.0E = 110 2.2E = 115 2.4E = 125 That's flywheel HP, or rather PS as Bob mentioned and that's exactly the same numbers as stated as "wheel HP", obviously someone got their numbers mixed up somewhere and it's passed on from one guy to the next and everyone gets confused
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"The nice thing about standards is that you have so many to choose from" --Andy Tanenbaum-- Last edited by ggl; 07-14-2009 at 06:22 PM. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Rice Cooker
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Spring Church, PA
Posts: 1,779
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How about the torque specs posted - is everyone in agreement with those?
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"In the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." -Abraham Lincoln ________________ 1972 GT 2.4L 1974 Manta GT/E 2.2L 1973 Manta Rallye 2.5L |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: germany
Posts: 13
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Hi,
you can take a look here: Opel-Infos.de . All Opel engines used in Germany since the last40 years are listet here. The power output is rated in KW (Kilowatt). 1 Kw is nearly 1,36 PS (HP) . The power output is every time taken at the crank, without any losses from trans, driveshaft and rearaxle. regards Jörg Last edited by yellowstorm.racing; 07-16-2009 at 05:21 PM. |
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