Willit? Update - Page 4

namba209 · 11-12-2004

Well, it's another one of those days here inSANe DIEGO, 70+ degrees, lotsa sun, and relative humidity in the 60s, A perfect day to finish painting the interior of the GT. AND I RAN OUT OF PAINT! I thought I had enuff to do the job in the six-pack box I had, but when I opened it up there were only two 4 ounce cans in the box. Next week for sure, weather permitting, it will be finished, well, the interior anyway. RATS!!!

baz · 11-12-2004

ron shock horror some rat put tiny wheels on the front
nice 70's jack up kit too

namba209 · 11-12-2004

All the better to drain the water out after I chemically treat the metal for painting, Baz. BTW with all the stuff out of the car but the gas tank, that's how high it sits in the rear. Believe it or not, that's how low I had to get the front to allow the water to drain out and even then it's not really enuff, a couple of degrees more nose down would be better, but then the belly pan would be on the ground.

soybean · 11-13-2004

Ron, if you're painting the interior with POR-15 products, isn't the paint supposed to adhere to their product? and if not what are you using to chemically treat the metal for painting? Just thoughts for the red one thats gutted like yours. Thanks, Jarrell

namba209 · 11-13-2004

Jarrell, I'm not going down to the metal anywhere inside or under the car, if the paint there is good, the POR-15 encapsulates it, what I've done so far on all the painting, is use their Marine Clean, spray it on, then hit it with my K'Archer vapor blaster, when it's dry spray it all down with their Metal Ready, just in case there's some bare metal in the area, keep it wet for 20-30 minutes, then hose it all down again. After it's dry and up to 4 days later it can be painted with their POR-15 paints, then a top coat. At least that's what their directions say to do and what I was told over the phone by them. HTH.

soybean · 11-13-2004

I did the same thing on parts of the brown one, but I was going to redo the red one entirely like you have done. When you say a top coat, are you speaking about theirs or the painters? I painted the entire engine compartment with POR-15, looks ok, just too dark. I wanted to do the same thing interior/exterior and then send it to the painters and have it shot the original red. Thanks, Jarrell

namba209 · 11-13-2004

You can use any quality paint over the POR-15, just read the directions and prep it like they suggest for great results. I did my headlight buckets and covers, and finished them with their Sterling Silver and then their Glisten PC clear. I put one in the headlight hole two years ago and it looks like the one I kept in the garage, except it's dustier/dirtier, so I'm well pleased with they way it turned out. HTH.

namba209 · 11-27-2004

Well, it's been 2 weeks since the last update so I guess I should say something about howgozit. THE INTERIOR IS PAINTED . Now, as soon as we get a good Santa Ana, that's a warm breeze from the desert, I can paint the bottom front of the car and finish up the engine compartment. Then it all starts going back together. YAY.

v6transplant · 12-05-2004

Ron,

Looks like you are making great headway on your V6 project. Mine has taken nearly 3 years to get where I am at. A lot of it was getting the body work squared around.

Your posts are great inspiration on keeping me going on mine.

namba209 · 12-05-2004

Thanx for the kind words, Greg. It looks like it will take the same amount of time for both of us to finish these projects. I have another delay now, the city decided it would be a good time to correct a storm drain puddling problem that has been in existence for over 20 years, down the street. Until they pour the concrete and lay the asphalt in the road, I can't do any excessive water application on the GT. Which means no Marine Clean or Metal Ready application for a while. So in the meantime, it'll be little bits and pieces that will get prepped for assembly. I noticed in your gallery, you don't recommend putting your engine/tranny in from the top. I don't understand that, it's how mine goes in easily. All I have to do is remove the crank pulley and it slides right in with all 4 tires on the ground. I like your hood, neat, you going to use cowl induction for the air intake, or is there not enuff room between the engine and hood. I'm still thinking about my set-up, but plan to use the nostrils in the Lenk Tuning hood I have. Keep us updated on howgozit.

v6transplant · 12-05-2004

Ron,

The insertion of the motor from the top was difficult as I did still have crank balancer on the front. I had to bend the cowl panel to get it in that way. And then once in, it was very difficult to get the bolts out from the back where I mounted chain to pick the motor. Maybe I still had more stuff on my motor than you did...

The front suspension is so easy to remove, 8 bolts + the steering knuckle bolt, and that stuff is out of your way. I just merely took a 3/4 piece of plywood, layed it over my heavy duty creeper, and dropped the motor on it. It was nice, because I could roll that baby any where I wanted.

I've decided that I am going to make a special attaching plate the pick the motor from the front, and just use a floor jack for the back of the tranny.

I understand all about delays! My project has evolved over the last 10 years. I originally was going to do an 1.9L rebuild a long time ago. Then I going to the 2.0, 2.2, 2.4L engine swap kick. But I wanted something more, until I found Pilkerton's article in the OANA newsletter. I have be kind of using that article as my road map, but only trying to improve upon it. Needless to say, it was made it take much longer. The body work phase of my car took at least 3 years, and several people's help to get it where it is at. The fact it is one color again is great motivation, as I have pretty much taken every nut, bolt, and screw off that darn car (years ago); now got to figure out where they all go again...

The scoop evolved early in my project as upon first test fits of the 3.4L, I felt that the top front edge of the intake plenum, might hit the hood. Plus I wanted to avoid the possibility of poor air circulation thru the engine compartment. I didn't intent on setting up the induction equipment for that type of hood. I am just going to mount a grille on the end, to allow air to flow through. I also bought a sound deadening pad for a honda rear floor section (which is a 4' x 4' sheet), cut it out, and attached it to the bottom side of the hood and scoop. It looks cool with the honeycomb pattern on it. Thus it will cut down heat penetration and sound, plus it made the hood scoop area more strong. I intent to fit hood shocks, like you see on newer cars, for both side of the hood; as the hood weighs more now. The original hood prop is too flimsy.

Your exhaust manifolds are very interesting, I have a set of the fiero ones, but, have been trying to figure out if I can do it differently. And I keep come back to the same answer, which is no (at least on the drivers side). The passenger side has plenty of room to build a custom header.

Which side of the block does your alternator mount on to? My '94 3.4L bolts to the passenger's side; Pilkerton's article pictures (which is a '92 3.1L) appears to be on the driver's side.

I'll be putting more pics up today, and probably should start a diary on my project as well for others...

namba209 · 12-05-2004