The Critter
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Thread: The Critter

  1. #1
    Opeler
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    The Critter

    I will start documenting my (re)build here.

    I got this GT with no engine or transmission, and plan to put in an electric motor. It has a lot of rust, mostly in the floor pans. While it would probably make more sense to find one in better condition, I would rather save this one from being scrapped. It will probably never be a show car, but I think it will be a good car to practice welding and body work on, and make a fun driver.

    So far I have:
    -rebuilt the steering rack
    -mounted a brake booster from a Metro (none originally there)
    -rekeyed the drivers door (came from a different car)
    -tore out what was left of the interior, not much
    -replaced turn signal ring and cleaned the switches on the steering column
    -began cutting out rust
    -cleaning up misc parts

    Lots left to go! Here is a sneak peak at the drivetrain.
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    GoinManta and MikeNotigan like this.
    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

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  3. #2
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Whaaaaaa.....?!!!!

    You've already conquered the mating of the electric motor to a tranny?!!! I've heard that that's one of the toughest/expensive parts of an electric conversion.

    Holy Golly, you'll be all done in a jiffy!



  4. #3
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Your project might be more easily found if it was moved to the EV Conversion forum.

    Harold

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  6. #4
    Opeler
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    Well, I bought a converted electric Toyota pickup to use for parts. So I got the motor already mounted to the transmission, as well as basically everything besides batteries. I'm pretty sure the restoration work will take much longer than the conversion to electric.

    I didn't realize there was an EV section, mods feel free to move my thread if it should be there instead.
    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  7. #5
    OpelGT.com Übermoderator My location kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtfroggy View Post
    I didn't realize there was an EV section, mods feel free to move my thread if it should be there instead.
    As requested
    Keith Wilford
    Working on the bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT, and may have another GT to build next...

  8. #6
    Opeler
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    Removed most of the original wiring because it was either already missing sections, or looked questionable. New headlight dimmer and flashers passed testing! I'm using a single unit impulse relay for the headlight dimmer rather than trying to re-create the original two relay configuration. Changed the flasher to a newer 8 pin unit, which only sends a signal through the turn switch rather than the entire load. It's also ready for LEDs.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  9. #7
    Opeler
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    Progress

    Finished testing the clock! Couldn't get the original clock to run so I got a replacement movement from Klockit. There was no easy way to connect the dial to the original knob for setting time, so I got a fancy radio clock that automatically sets itself and even does daylight savings! Got the original hands to fit with a bit of filing, and added an LED for lighting. Clock was made to run in a house off a AA battery so I added a 1.5v regulator.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

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    Hmmm!

    That's an interesting idea! Not too sure about the DST feature because here in AZ we don't "save" time. I guess we just "Don't mess with Mother Nature!"

    One thing catches my eye about what you have done however. I haven't ever removed any instruments so this may be way off base, but here goes. The clock case has a trim ring that sticks out beyond the case at the front of the case and covers the gap between the case and the dash when installed. From this, I am guessing that the clock installs from the front. However, it appears that all 4 corners of your clock "mechanism" (if that is what you call the workings of an electric clock) also stick beyond the circular case boundary (approximately the same amount as the outside of the trim ring). This makes me ask, how does the clock assembly install through the dash?

    Doug

  11. #9
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    That's an interesting idea! Not too sure about the DST feature because here in AZ we don't "save" time. I guess we just "Don't mess with Mother Nature!"

    One thing catches my eye about what you have done however. I haven't ever removed any instruments so this may be way off base, but here goes. The clock case has a trim ring that sticks out beyond the case at the front of the case and covers the gap between the case and the dash when installed. From this, I am guessing that the clock installs from the front. However, it appears that all 4 corners of your clock "mechanism" (if that is what you call the workings of an electric clock) also stick beyond the circular case boundary (approximately the same amount as the outside of the trim ring). This makes me ask, how does the clock assembly install through the dash?

    Doug
    All dash gauges install from the back.

    Cool mod
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    All dash gauges install from the back.

    Cool mod
    Thanks FO, as I said, I haven't done any dash work on my GT. My 1952 MGTD installs from the front.

    Doug

  13. #11
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    Dimmer Switch

    I tried cleaning off the contacts on the instrument dimmer switch, but could not get it to dim very well. Also I plan on using LEDs. To make this work, I got a $2.50 PWM dimmer off Amazon which uses a potentiometer to dim. I got a slide pot with similar resistance, and replaced the wrapped wire with the internal strip from the slide pot. End result is a pretty smooth dimmer that works with both LEDs and incandescent bulbs! Just need to figure out where to mount the small PCB.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

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    Extra Dash Switch

    I also didn't like that the left middle switch is nonfunctional (I believe for fog lights on European models). This turned out to be pretty simple to fix. I filed the slot in the aluminum cover a bit longer so that the switch could move. Then I cut a hole in the bottom and glued in a small rocker switch, which is flipped by the original lever. Took a little adjustment, but turned out pretty clean and now I have an extra switch!
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  15. #13
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Dude!

    VERY cool!

    Nice useful mod!

    For your ingenuity, you get the......









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  16. #14
    Opeler
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    Got one floor pan replaced. I'll take better pictures when both sides are done. I did a lap weld around the whole thing top and bottom.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  17. #15
    Opeler
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    Headlight Rotator

    I have been working on the left headlight rotator for a while now. It was pretty much rusted solid, but a good bath of evapo-rust cleaned it up pretty well. One of the 3 M5 bolts was broken off, and was a huge pain to get out. I tried "drilling" it out from the back to turn it with no luck at first. I submerged it in penetrating oil for a few days and tried again. I broke my 5/32nds bit on it (titanium nitride), then went to the next size smaller and kept going at it. Eventually I ended up drilling all the way through the bolt. Since at this point I had a hole in it, I tried an easy out from the front with no luck. Got a 5/32 cobalt bit, and tried again from the back. It dug in and I finally got a hold. Had to grab the drill bit extremely tight in vice grips, and was able to turn it out finally! Amazingly, the cobalt bit doesn't even show a mark where I grabbed it in the vice grips.

    When you guys put these back together, do you put anything on the threads? I was thinking anti-seize so this doesn't happen again, but then I was also thinking lock-tite so that it doesn't wiggle out.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  18. #16
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtfroggy View Post
    When you guys put these back together, do you put anything on the threads? I was thinking anti-seize so this doesn't happen again, but then I was also thinking lock-tite so that it doesn't wiggle out.
    The OE bolts were nylock type bolts. There was a groove with a thin strip of 'nylon' running most of the length of the threads to prevent them from loosening unintentionally.

    Harold

  19. #17
    Opeler
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    So loc-tite then? I guess it seems like the bolts break from use, not necessarily when trying to remove them.
    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

  20. #18
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    That whole cockamamie headlight contraption is a rust prone PIA. I had trouble with all those bolts as far back as the 80's. Try to replace what you can with stainless bolts. Use blue Loctite if you feel you need to, but, obviously, loosening of those bolts is the least of your worries, not being able to get them out again in the future is of far greater concern. I have(had) found the screws that hold the chrome rings around the bulbs to be easy to strip. Consider drilling out any stripped holes and using tiny stainless computer-size allen bolts with lock nuts instead or simply hold them on with tiny wire ties through the screw holes. Just a thought....


  21. #19
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    I don't think stainless bolts are available that are hard enough for headlight rotator duty.

    I was planning on using blue loctite on the bolts. It's removable and I think the loctite will prevent corrosion (but I may be wrong, other ideas are welcome).

    Below is a link to a great thread on this topic, and it even shows a picture of the original bolt with the groove in it.

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2c-gt-h...echanisms.html
    kwilford likes this.
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

  22. #20
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    Heating panel arrived. Original panel was missing, and the heating elements will be electric, so I decided to make a new panel for completely electric controls. It will also have an emergency cutoff switch in the extra space. The two empty holes will have standard toggle switches. 3D printed off of 3dhubs and fits just about perfect! If anyone is interested in making their own I can upload the 3D model.
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    Jon - '73 Opel GT (in work)

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