Can anyone guess what my opel project is this winter?

[jordan]

The picture may make it look obvious, but you never know. Does any one, maybe bob know if the MAFS can be disassembled for cleaning and polishing (and put back together and be functional?)

[markandson]

Jordan,
The cover is glued on and can be pryed off if necessary. I do not recommend doing this as there are really no parts in there that should be messed with, unless there is some sort of problem that you are looking into. I would just clean it up from the outside the best that you can and call it a day. I have a junk one that I took apart when I was trying to make one for my system, if you want to see what's inside I could shoot a picture of it. I think it is at my shop though. By the way, I think what you have there is just a AFM, not a MAF.

[GTJIM]

There are some real interesting and delicate bits inside the bit in the left foreground of your pictures ... it can be disassembled to be reconditioned - by experts! - but do you ever want it to work again ??

Just polish the bits you can get at while trying to not get any polish in under that black plastic cap .....

[pvcar]

well i had a mass air flow sensor start acting up on me in a toyota 4 runner 86 the little idle lever in there was not reading correctly, and it would stall out if u didnt keep the engine reved high enough, so i took that cover off and took a granola bar wrapper follded it up and stuck it on the side so that it would keep the idle lever up, and it worked ok for a couple hundred miles so till i was able to make it back to california. but i wouldn't recommend removing the cover to polish it.

[wrench459]

to protect the CAT
why is there O/2 sensors in ALL cars now days
to protect the CAT 14.7 A/F ratio is not the best for performance
and oh yes you can clock the main spring in the mass air flow sensor
BTW carbs suck

[namba209]

That may be close, but in my case no cigar. There's a cat in the monza but no O2 sensors or computer or anything else that a computer would require. BTW it's on the second cat, I had to change the original one because after 25 years of running 91 octane through a 2-barrel carb, it finally got plugged up. And it passed CA smog check every year after I got the engine ignition and fuel dialed in after it was declared a gross polluter. It'a amazing what a 16:1 air/fuel ratio will do for a car.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jordan The picture may make it look obvious, but you never know. Does any one, maybe bob know if the MAFS can be disassembled for cleaning and polishing (and put back together and be functional?)

I have only taken apart a 1.9 AFM, not the 2.0 version (which is what yours looks like if I'm not mistaken). If you are careful I see no problem with it. In my case I just bead-blasted it and painted it due to the external corrosion, I'd hate to polish around all those ribs on the case!

Bob

[jordan]

I had the thermostat housing glass beaded to 220 grit and I will attempt to buff it but if it doesn't work too well I will have it powder coated yellow with the rest of the front suspension components.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by wrench459 to protect the CAT why is there O/2 sensors in ALL cars now days to protect the CAT 14.7 A/F ratio is not the best for performance and oh yes you can clock the main spring in the mass air flow sensor BTW, carbs suck!

. . . both literally AND figuratively!!

[jordan]

I have done some more buffing and I think I may use some blizzard compound on it and call it good, I am not looking for a chrome look, just shiny and smooth. Has anyone tried "zoop seal" it is supposed to prevent corrosion on metal surfaces for years I am considering getting some but it is expensive...at $120 a bottle. Also I am getting the injectors rebuild at RC engineering in california and I can't get the injectors out of the hold down clamp with that tube attached, should I leave them as is and send them on their way or cut the tube off and remove the clamps?

[namba209]

Jordan, I'm gonna guess you'll be replacng the fuel lines, from what I can see in the pics, if you remove the rubber lines, you should be able to remove the injectors by taking out the steel lines.

[Paul]

Jordan
Call RC and ask if they will replacing the short piece of rubber hose. If so, then you should be able to cut the rubber hose to remove the metal fuel line.

[RallyBob]

Replacing the hoses on the injectors is actually quite easy, and recommended due to the age of the hoses. The hardest part is cutting off the old hose without damaging the barbs on the injectors! So don't worry about it...just snip the hoses off for now.

Bob

[jordan]

I got the injectors out of the clamps by removing the square shouldered rubber grommet around the middle of the injector. I have been told before that once the injectors are cleaned and flowtested they need to be used within a week becuase the synthetic liquid with gasoline propertys that they test with will harden and create more of a problem then before, any truth to this?

[jordan]

Wouldn't it yield the best performance by having the air flow meter as close to the throttle body as possible? or doesn't a distance like this really matter when dealing with afm's?

[simplemind7]

it shouldn't really matter much unless the car has some sort of forced induction.

[ungermm]

Originally Posted by jordan I have done some more buffing and I think I may use some blizzard compound on it and call it good, I am not looking for a chrome look, just shiny and smooth. Has anyone tried "zoop seal" it is supposed to prevent corrosion on metal surfaces for years I am considering getting some but it is expensive...at $120 a bottle. Also I am getting the injectors rebuild at RC engineering in california and I can't get the injectors out of the hold down clamp with that tube attached, should I leave them as is and send them on their way or cut the tube off and remove the clamps?

Jordan, Your injection system looks a lot like mine and great job on the polishing. What was it off of?

I know it's a little late on your polish question, but, the best stuff that I have used is called Metal Master Gloss. I saw a demonstration at a auto show where they take the bottom of a soda can and turn it into a mirror within a minute. I got great results by fine sanding my valve cover and mags and then polishing them with this stuff to get very close to a chrome look. And, if you have any empty kegs around like a lot of hot rodders do, then you can make a nice gas tank. It's not cheap stuff, but, a lot cheaper than than Zoop Seal. $12.95 gets you 16 oz of both the polish and sealer, then add on $11 for shipping.
Jerry (not affiliated with the makers of Master Formula)

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http://cgi.ebay.com/BLOW-OUT-SALE-MA...QQcmdZViewItem

[soybean]

Here's another link to it. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...alerGloss2.php
Jarrell

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Paul Jordan Call RC and ask if they will replace the short piece of rubber hose. If so, then you should be able to cut the rubber hose to remove the metal fuel line.

If you send them "as-is" to RC, they will remove them when they clean them and return them to you with the bare hose barbs. Easy to cut short lengths of FI-rated hose and replace with two hose clamps per injector . . . what I did.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by jordan Wouldn't it yield the best performance by having the air flow meter as close to the throttle body as possible? or doesn't a distance like this really matter when dealing with afm's?

Very nice installation! See that you moved the CSI (cold start injector) to the side of the manifold . . . good solution for clearance problem with stock location (rear of manifold) when installed in a GT . . . easier for servicing too.

While I'm at it, here's some Polaroids (long before digicams were available) of my first GT FI installation from 1978:

[jordan]

ohh, otto that isn't actually my installation I just found that pic in the photo gallery and I was wondering if having the air flow meter that far away from the TB was a problem.