Opel Manta Not Starting Fuel Injection Problems

[eddie clarke]

Can anyone help i have a 1987 Opel Manta GTE the car will start and run for one to two seconds if you try to press the throttle it will not start at all i have checked the feed from the coil to the dual block and i have checked the feed from the starter motor i have checked the fuel pump and relay i have also checked that the injectors are injecting, also checked throttle butterfly all these things appears to be working. the poblem started when the car was sitting idle for a few years and it was started again and the problem got worse until the car would not drive and will only start for that second

[baronbors]

Sounds like a fuel delievery problem- did you check the accelerator pump?

[baronbors]

Also a factor- what carb are you running? Solex -can it replace with a Weber

[Mike Preble]

He mentions injectors so I am going to assume it is fuel injected.

Mike

[heimue]

Manta GTE = Manta B with a 2.0 EFI engine.

If, like you are saying, the injectors inject fine, it can only be a problem with the ignition. Did you check for sparks? Take one out, have somebody else start the engine, and watch whether your spark plug gets nice sparks (don't forget to put the head of the spark plug on ground).
If that looks good, I suspect a problem with your potentiometer on the air flow meter.

Dieter

[baronbors]

Originally Posted by Mike Preble He mentions injectors so I am going to assume it is fuel injected. Mike

OOPPS!! Missed that- cancel

[Rionart]

Crap in the tank blocking the fuel pick-up filter...same as the infamous GT "sock" problem...

[eddie clarke]

Hi
Thank you all for your replies. My Manta is a 1987 gte I have already checked the spark plugs there okay
I did think of the air flow meter but how do I test it is it possible? Also the fuel is pumping
And pressuring with no obstructions

[Rionart]

It must be bad when it's keeping you awake at night Eddie!!
If you are sure the probem is under the bonnet:
Try to find another Manta owner who is willing to let you swap parts with the 2 cars side by side.
Swap 1 item at a time, and when you transfer the problem, bingo!
(beem known to trouble shoot aircraft this way, but don't tell the pilots...)

[West Coast GT]

Two Ideas -

1. Does your car have a mass air flow meter? It sounds like it could be symptomatic of a faulty one. If so, my experience with my personal vehicles is the engine will crank, fire, and rev for a brief moment, then die. Some models will eventually figure out the sensors are out of spec, and will default into "limp-home" mode. 1987 sounds too early for this last feature.

How to test one? I don't know. Try to obtain a used one from a salvage yard to check if the engine will run. If so, order a new one for more money, unless you have faith in the one from the salvage yard (and the car is not used for wife & children).

My particular method consisted of cutting the damn thing open with a Dremel Tool and poking around in it; which was met with marginal success, at best.

2. From your statement the car sat idle for years, and your problem became progressively worse, I'm lead to believe you may have bad fuel. Although, this would not be consistent with the engine firing up, then dieing.

Drain the fuel and run it through a small engine such as a lawn mower (or my favorite - a 2 stroke margarita blender). If the lawn mower runs, then go back to your mass air flow meter, or whatever form of sensing air temperature, air flow, and throttle position your car employs. Chances are, connections in a sensor circuit just aren’t connecting. This happens when they sit for extended time. Although, this too, is inconsistent with the problem worsening the more the car ran.

[heimue]

Originally Posted by West Coast GT 1. Does your car have a mass air flow meter?

It's a throttle position potentiometer, like the good ol' style.
Mass flow meters weren't introduced at Opel before they had the OHC/DOHC engines in the very late 80's/early 90's.

Dieter

[tomking]

Dieter if the middle 80s AFMs were just pots, then why did they have 4 or 5 connections in them? What else besides the pot was being connected? Thanks

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by tomking Dieter if the middle 80s AFMs were just pots, then why did they have 4 or 5 connections in them? What else besides the pot was being connected? Thanks

Bosch L-/LE-Jetronic flap-style AFMs so near and dear to our Opels FI until the late '80s/early '90s, as Dieter mentioned measure air flow by a variable potentiometer attached to the air flap and also contain a set of contacts that keep the fuel pump running as long as there is air flow, i.e. engine is running. The dual/main control relay controls the e-pump during start.

[tomking]

Thanks Otto, now I know. BTW I sent you an email last weekend; have you seen it?

[eddie clarke]

Hi
Thanks again to everyone for your advice, also to answer one suggestion I have already
Completely washed out the fuel tank and replaced the fuel, I think the air flow meter may be
The problem, dos anyone know were I could get one I live in Ireland but anywhere in the UK
Should not be a problem as it could be posted. one suggestion was to cut it open could you
Elaborate on the radical suggestion

[tomking]

Yes, go here in the UK
ATP Electronic Developments Ltd - Remanufactures Fuel Injection Parts e.g air flow meters, ecu/ecm`s etc

[tomking]

Maybe I have a better idea. What is your Bosch part number?
I may have one for you that I will trade if you can find one to fit my 84-87 2.2 liter FI engine. I need an AFM with part number 0 280 202 068.
I have a 0 280 202 006 for trade.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by eddie clarke Can anyone help i have a 1987 Opel Manta GTE the car will start and run for one to two seconds

I'm not familiar with the later Bosch f.i. systems, but a '75 L-Jetronic Opel will exhibit this problem if the #10 red wire that runs from the battery to the dual relay is disconnected. This main feed has an inline spade lug which can be disconnected. However, there is a separate feed from the starter solenoid (ignition key - crank position) that will let the engine start while cranking but it all dies when you go to the run position. It's something to check.

Bill

[eddie clarke]

Thanks to everyone for your help, if anyone is interested I found the problem there is a earth wire
Attached to the air intake housing of the fuel injection unit and this was broken even though the
Outer insulation of this earth wire was holding it together making it appear intact

[Rionart]

Originally Posted by eddie clarke Thanks to everyone for your help, if anyone is interested I found the problem there is a earth wire Attached to the air intake housing of the fuel injection unit and this was broken even though the Outer insulation of this earth wire was holding it together making it appear intact

Nice one Eddie,
Well done finding a well hidden fault!