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Old 02-03-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: '75 EFI Hard Start Cold?

Every morning, I have to apply injector spray/cleaner directly inside the throttle body (butterfly) Otherwise, engine fails to start. I used to not care about it, but now, it's becoming a hassle popping-up the hood. I must do this everyday especially during cold mornings.

Have you experienced this before? What's the fix?

Thanks. Looking into your 02 cents worth!
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Old 02-03-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RetroSportCar View Post
Every morning, I have to apply injector spray/cleaner directly inside the throttle body (butterfly) Otherwise, engine fails to start. I used to not care about it, but now, it's becoming a hassle popping-up the hood. I must do this everyday especially during cold mornings.

Have you experienced this before? What's the fix?

Thanks. Looking into your 02 cents worth!
I'm not an F.I. expert by any means, but, I do have a 75 Sportwagon, and there's a 5th injector at the back of the plenum, it's called the "cold start injector", it I think that's what's it's for. You might want to start there
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Last edited by tekenaar; 02-03-2008 at 01:21 PM. Reason: I'm not . . . by no - 2 negs; plenium
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Old 02-03-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, BSQ4!

I actually already got that cold start injector replaced. The problem still persist.

What amazes me is that without the use of fuel injector/spray, by just hitting and flooring the gas pedal several times (10-15 tops) prior to starting the engine, fuel would populate, engine would start but I have to keep on flooring the pedal, for a minute or so, to maintain the correct idle until engine warms up. If not, engine dies.
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Old 02-03-2008   #4 (permalink)
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One possibility is a faulty thermo-time switch, which controls the function of the cold start injector.

-Kurt
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Old 02-03-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Exclamation TTS and CSI (extra fuel) + AAV (extra air) = cold start

Originally Posted by Opelkurt View Post
One possibility is a faulty thermo-time switch, which controls the function of the cold start injector.

-Kurt
. . . have to agree with Kurt , though the TTS device (brown electrical plug) may not itself be defective. I would remove the electrical plug and look inside it to see if the rubber seal is still inside it.

The TTS connector seal's function is really two-fold, to 'seal', obviously, but also to hold connector firmly in place to ensure contact alignment, i.e. good contact. When the seal is missing, engine vibration can cause non-contact and the cold-start injector never opens . . . ask me how I know!
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Last edited by tekenaar; 02-03-2008 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Kurt, not Keith :-()
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Old 02-03-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
. . . have to agree with Keith, though the TTS device (brown electrical plug) may not itself be defective. I would remove the electrical plug and look inside it to see if the rubber seal is still inside it.

The TTS connector seal's function is really two-fold, to 'seal', obviously, but also to hold connector firmly in place to ensure contact alignment, i.e. good contact. When the seal is missing, engine vibration can cause non-contact and the cold-start injector never opens . . . ask me how I know!
You mean Kurt?

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Old 02-03-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Hello,
The 1975 manual suppliment lists a bench test with an ohm meter to test the thermo time switch, and I see no reason that it couldn't be done with the unit still installed, unless the TTS casing being grounded is an issue.
"Using the ohmmeter connected to the two (2) prongs, the resistance of the thermo time switch should be 50 to 75 ohms above 95 degrees F, or 3 to 5 ohms below 95 degrees F."
Just a quote from the manual, I don't have one to verify, but I agree that it should be the first thing to check! I was just researching the manual before I logged on.
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