3.0 EFI intake manifold modified for a 2.2 head

[RallyBob]

Found the full Bosch part number. It's the 6th item down on this list.
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=125

Bob

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Since the turbo Manta project got upgraded to a larger turbo I had to get new injectors for that engine. New injectors required a different fuel rail, etc. So I had these new 'leftover' hose-barb style injectors hanging around with a brand-new custom fuel rail, and when I checked the fitment they bolted right up to the 3.0 manifold. They will safely meet my 200 hp goals for this engine, with the potential to go up to 230-240 if needed. Info here: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showpos...36&postcount=4 These are pretty readily available and not too expensive, plus they will fit to a stock 1.9 fuel rail. They are low impedence injectors, so they are not compatible with later Euro stuff (2.0/2.2 ECU's). HTH, Bob

. . . meaning that you have to use preresistor packs and early ECUs with them. VERY IMPORTANT . . . at least, if you don't want to fry your ECU's injector drivers . . . ask Charles.

[Hiro]

Originally Posted by RallyBob A few updates. I chopped the 3.0 EFI intake down to fit a 4-cylinder CIH 2.2/2.4 engine. I also ordered a 65 mm Ford Mustang throttle body. When that arrives I'll make a 1/2" thick adapter and weld it to the intake plenum to affix the Mustang TB. In the meantime a bit of grinding and polishing was done to the intake to prepare it for either paint or powdercoating (haven't decided yet). When all these parts come together the next step is to order a Megasquirt and a bigger EFI pump, and put it all on the 2.5 roller cam '75 wagon. I'm hoping to bump power from 152 whp up to the 175-180 whp range. That works out to around 205-210 flywheel hp for a streetable normally aspirated engine that runs on pump gas. Can't wait to dyno it!

Cool work Bob!
I wonder how much this manifold will flow?
Do you see some area that need to be ported?
Gregg's Wagon will like this one for sure!
Cheers,
Hiro

[jordan]

those little protrusions coming off of the bottom of the flanges are strange, what was their purpose?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jordan those little protrusions coming off of the bottom of the flanges are strange, what was their purpose?

Stability. Remember this intake fits the 'high-port' Opel heads, which are raised about 5/8" higher than a 1.9. Without that flange the intake bolts wouldn't hold the intake/exhaust together onto the head very well.

I suspect that without those protrusions, if you leaned on the intake with the engine running it would develop a vacuum leak at the flange.

[RallyBob]

Before I left for the Maine Rally on Thursday, I welded the flange onto the cut-down 3.0 intake, and test fitted the Mustang 65 mm throttle body to it. You'll note I mounted the TB with the throttle shaft running vertically. This will make fitting a custom throttle cable easier for me, it will attach to a bracket fitted to the front cam cover on the head. Note also the aluminum plate I made to allow the air idle bypass to be used with an aftermarket EFI system, allowing a fast idle for cold starts. I hope to flow-test this week.

[jeff denton]

That is trick! I would consider that to be a "tunnel ram" manifold, right?

[Hiro]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Before I left for the Maine Rally on Thursday, I welded the flange onto the cut-down 3.0 intake, and test fitted the Mustang 65 mm throttle body to it. You'll note I mounted the TB with the throttle shaft running vertically. This will make fitting a custom throttle cable easier for me, it will attach to a bracket fitted to the front cam cover on the head. Note also the aluminum plate I made to allow the air idle bypass to be used with an aftermarket EFI system, allowing a fast idle for cold starts. I hope to flow-test this week.

superb work as always, Bob!
this TB is really huge,
I guess its ID is almost identical to the plenum ID?
did you do some porting work on the runners too?
Hiro

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Hiro I guess its ID is almost identical to the plenum ID?

Not quite Hiro, but 70mm would be almost exactly the same size as the plenum. Perhaps even 75mm could be fitted with some grinder work and some extra welding.

did you do some porting work on the runners too? Hiro

Not yet, but I will be matching the runners to the cylinder head after the flow tests are done. I want to see how the manifold flows 'as cast'.

Bob

[davegt27]

Was there any problems welding on that old manifold.

What I am being told is (1) don't bother trying to weld on that old stuff it would be easier to just go from scratch.

(2) you have to get the part really clean to be able to weld on it

Any tips on the welding side I cut up a 75 FI manifold a few weeks ago to get the short runners.

thanks in advance
Davegt27

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by davegt27 Was there any problems welding on that old manifold. What I am being told is (1) don't bother trying to weld on that old stuff it would be easier to just go from scratch. (2) you have to get the part really clean to be able to weld on it Any tips on the welding side I cut up a 75 FI manifold a few weeks ago to get the short runners. thanks in advance Davegt27

Yes, one thing I've learned in the year or so I've been welding aluminum is that the surface prep is almost as important as the skill of the welder. I've seen prefessionals (which I'm not) swear and curse at a piece of oil soaked aluminum since heat only draws the oil/grease from the pores of the casting and contaminates the weld area.

Through trial and error I've got it down to a reasonable 'science'. I used to have my used aluminum parts cleaned by my auto machniist in his big hot-tank, but have found out that it only makes the problem worse. The part is clean on the surface but the pores are dirtier than ever with a mix of oil and cleaning solvents (nasty stuff too).

So, my current 'technique' involves cleaning all loose grease and oil from the part with a scraper and then lacquer thinner and a Scotchbrite pad. Then I clean it in very hot water with POR-15's Marine-Clean solvent and a fresh Scotchbrite pad. If possible, I glass-bead the part too (I have to travel to the machine shop to do this so it's not always convenient). I use a commercially-available aluminum etcher/cleaner with a stainless steel wire brush to scrub the area to be welded next, and rinse with water.

Last step, I use NAPA 'special' non chlorinated brake cleaner aerosol (it smells like citrus) to spray the area to be welded while scrubbing with a stainless wire brush (always have a dedicated wire brush for aluminum only, never use it on ferrous metals as the particles from the steel can be deposited into the aluminum, further screwing up the weld!). This last step really seems to help....BTW you don't want to use regular brake cleaner as it actually makes the welding worse!

It sounds like a lot of steps, I agree, but I'd rather spend 15 minutes cleaning the part and getting a sound weld rather than throwing the part away because it's junk.

HTH,
Bob

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by davegt27 Any tips on the welding side I cut up a 75 FI manifold a few weeks ago to get the short runners.

Dave, if you can't get it done locally, send it to me and I can finish it up. I have another 1.9 manifold in the works (just ordered 10AN fuel rail for it yesterday), and it's getting an Ford TB plate welded in place, aluminum injector bungs welded on to use modern o-ring injectors, and a custom rail for direct water injection. So I could just line them up and weld 'em at the same time.

Bob

[davegt27]

hey i am not going to say no to the master

I am batting 50% on aluminum welding the first time I was like hey this is not so hard.

The second time it just fell apart and that was in a class room setting with nice clean aluminum and stainless steal brushes.

I still need to gather some bits the flat stock I have is to thick and I need some short tubing.




Thanks in advance.
Davegt27

[jeff denton]

Big ten four on the citrus brake cleaner! Works magic, my learned trick is also to have your weld "V'd out" real good so your weld is penetrating as much as filling. It is all in the preparation! Even on a nasty old dump truck. You get out of it what you put into it, there is no such thing as "throwing a quick weld" at aluminum....
I use spool guns a lot, my lesson there long ago was keep that spool gun put away, safe from idiots. When they get trashed it is hard to get them working again. Mine does not get borrowed, period.

[oldopelguy]

Originally Posted by RallyBob aluminum injector bungs welded on to use modern o-ring injectors

Are you filling in the stock 1.9 injector plate holes and adding welded in bungs, Bob, or are you making new plates with the bungs that bolt to the stock manifold in place of the Opel injector plates? Bolt on ones would be worth having around just in case.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy Are you filling in the stock 1.9 injector plate holes and adding welded in bungs, Bob, or are you making new plates with the bungs that bolt to the stock manifold in place of the Opel injector plates? Bolt on ones would be worth having around just in case.

Neither really. Once you've cut the bung at the proper angle to fit the intake, it pretty much covers the entire stock injector hole. So no hole-filling is done, and no plate is used either.

I am doing the 'plate' technique for Gregg's Manta, only because the intake is already chromed, but for my own intake I'm just welding the bungs directly in place.

My friend with the chroming business recently bought a CNC to produce custom motorcycle parts, and it's really not kept all that busy. So I've considered having a few items made for Opels, and one of them is a CNC milled aluminum plate designed for modern o-ring injectors which bolts to the stock intake. I already have a source for billet fuel rail as well.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Neither really. Once you've cut the bung at the proper angle to fit the intake, it pretty much covers the entire stock injector hole. So no hole-filling is done, and no plate is used either. I am doing the 'plate' technique for Gregg's Manta, only because the intake is already chromed, but for my own intake I'm just welding the bungs directly in place. My friend with the chroming business recently bought a CNC to produce custom motorcycle parts, and it's really not kept all that busy. So I've considered having a few items made for Opels, and one of them is a CNC milled aluminum plate designed for modern o-ring injectors which bolts to the stock intake. I already have a source for billet fuel rail as well.

Sounds cool, Bob. Now if I can just find a 'proper' 3.0 intake like yours, I'd be one of your first customers for my 2.4 roller GT . . . again at a standstill.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by tekenaar Sounds cool, Bob. Now if I can just find a 'proper' 3.0 intake like yours, I'd be one of your first customers for my 2.4 roller GT . . . again at a standstill.

Or I could modify and sell you my factory 2.4 intake. I just don't have a GT with a 2.2/2.4 head to measure for hood clearance...e.g., I don't know how much to shorten it.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Or I could modify and sell you my factory 2.4 intake. I just don't have a GT with a 2.2/2.4 head to measure for hood clearance...e.g., I don't know how much to shorten it.

Does it help to tell you that a 2.2 EFI manifold on a 2.4 head fits in a GT with virtually no mods?

BTW, did you check out my driver-side A/C compressor mounting bracket solution in the 'dual pulley' thread?