EFI Options

[namba209]

Originally Posted by neuropel and with the right stall converter it would probably be a hoot! Todd K.

Just a personal opinion here, Todd. In the monza, with a modded TH350, the tranny shop owner asked me if I would like to put in a high stall convertor, so I asked him what that would do. He said it would lock up the convertor at whatever RPM I would like up to 5000 RPM, depending on which convertor I wanted. So I asked at what RPM a standard convertor would lock up and he said just a bit above 1200 RPM. I told him to keep a stock convertor in it, I wanted the engine torque to be transmitted as soon as possible to the rear-end, and with the straight cut gears in the tranny, not too much is lost going from engine to rear-end. Another thing he told me, which was nice to hear, if I put the tranny selector in 1st or low range, I get both the drive clutch pack and the low/reverse clutch pack locked up to the output shaft, so there's no clutch slippage when I stand on the throttle, on occasion.

[neuropel]

Cool Ron!

As I mentioned, I've always been curious to know how it would behave, and whether anyone has ever stuck with their auto tranny through a similar power upgrade. While a stock manta is kind of a slug with the automatic, I imagine it'd be a whole different beast with the right engine up front. Even stock it's still fun to drive with the suspension mods.

Todd

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by neuropel Cool Ron! As I mentioned, I've always been curious to know how it would behave, and whether anyone has ever stuck with their auto tranny through a similar power upgrade. While a stock manta is kind of a slug with the automatic, I imagine it'd be a whole different beast with the right engine up front. Even stock it's still fun to drive with the suspension mods. Todd

I've run up to about 130-135 hp with an Opel automatic. Had to use a higher stall speed converter because of the camshaft...otherwise the car wouldn't idle in gear, and nothing happened until you hit 2500-3000 rpms (a real 'dog' down low in other words).

Stock Opel converter is 2200-2400 rpms. I used to just have them made with a 3000 rpm stall speed for street use. Made the car MUCH quicker around down, and it idled well. Just need an external cooler because all the extra converter slippage creates heat in the ATF. I ran the B & M 'trickshift' fluid as well, otherwise the tranny was stock. You give up some top end power compared to a stick because of the converter slippage (same as stock on the top end...about 300 rpms), but the extra slippage down low makes for worse mileage for city driving. However, they are actually very fun to drive this way, you always have grunt...no waiting for it to 'come on' the camshaft.

Bob

[neuropel]

A bit of an update...At the T.O.O. meet this weekend we had a chance to fit up the Extrudabody ITB setup on the 2.4 head using the Dbilas twin intakes. Some nice workmanship there, and now even after the introductory pricing has ended they're only about half the cost of the TWM induction setup. Should be sweet!

Todd K.

[Hiro]

Originally Posted by neuropel A bit of an update...At the T.O.O. meet this weekend we had a chance to fit up the Extrudabody ITB setup on the 2.4 head using the Dbilas twin intakes. Some nice workmanship there, and now even after the introductory pricing has ended they're only about half the cost of the TWM induction setup. Should be sweet! Todd K.

superb!
should breath nicely!

[neuropel]

Quick follow up...

I received the Extrudabody fuel rail today, custom drilled for my particular setup after making our measurements at Duane's get-together. Another really nice piece that came complete with stainless fasteners, anodized bracketry and AN fittings. The rail is extruded aluminum and has a T-slot for all the mounting hardware and fittings to attach. The modular design allows it to be customized for ANY kind of intake setup - just measure between the injectors and they send you a custom rail setup complete with AN fittings.

Todd

[neuropel]

I have done nothing more to get my Extrudabody ITBs up and running since last posting to this thread. Today, I got a newsletter from Extrudabody detailing some new products coming out soon. Specifically, I'm anxious to learn more about their new controller as it is designed specifically for this setup! I also figured I'd whet the appetite of some (mainly Bob) by including the tidbit on the upcoming 48mm DCOE ITBs that they're about to release. So perhaps it's good that I waited. Below are some of the details. I'm not affiliated with them - only a customer. Bullet #4 is of particular interest as the Opel 2.4 has a 60-2 trigger wheel, so this setup is going to be about as close to a "bolt on" solution as I will likely find. I also like the OBD-II compatibility as the scanners have gotten cheap and will offer FAR easier diagnostics. I think I know what my next big purchase will be.

New Larger size ITB’s:The 48mm IDA, 48mm IDF and 48mm DCOE ITB’s are almost ready! More Flow, More GO!
New Extrudabody Electronics:We are inching closer and closer to having the New Extrudabody Electronics ready to hit the market. Here are a few highlights.
1.Dual Fuel ECU, will run 2 separate fuels simultaneously Methanol/Gasoline, can run these independent or together to cool the air charge or suppress detonation on high compression engines.
2.Sequential injection for 4&6 cylinders, bank to bank on V8’s
3.Coil on Plug for 4 & 6 cylinders. Coil Packs also for 4 & 6 cylinders, and will run V8’s with dual 4 coil packs per bank.
4.TMAP for Load sensor control. We currently have a 4 cylinder running Sequential Injection, with only a 60-2 Crank Wheel, the car has no vacuum log, no cam sensor, and 30kpa of vacuum at idle all due to the proprietary software code in the ECU, and how/when it processes the TMAP Signal. Cutting Edge feature here guys!
5.Wideband Self tune software.
6.OBD2 Compliant. Having an issue with a sensor? Plug in your OBD2 Scanner and see which one!
7.Lots of different inputs and outputs to control, BOOST, FANS, PURGE Valves, IAC…….. ETC.