hi bo
try gil at
http://www.opelgtsource.com/
they will be quickest and have an online section to graze in
Anyone have a good fuel pump for a '71 GT motor? Or at least a online gettin' place. Can't find one in town (yet). I don't think i'm getting enough pressure to fill the bowl fast enough. With fuel line off and turning over engine, i get no fuel. This is my last resort to getting this thing running. Carb is rebuilt now but will not idle or run. I can spray carb cleaner into it and it will run good, but stop spraying and stops running.
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
hi bo
try gil at
http://www.opelgtsource.com/
they will be quickest and have an online section to graze in
Copyright © 2003-2010 barry williams
All Rights Reserved
B.O.O.B. founding member
Thanks Daz. I forgot about that site. Still learning!
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
who ?![]()
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Copyright © 2003-2010 barry williams
All Rights Reserved
B.O.O.B. founding member
Sorry, Fat finger syndrome!![]()
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Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Check to see that you have fuel flow at the pump inlet first! Disconnect hose from FP nipple, fuel should run out freely . . . lower level than tank. If not, fuel sock in tank is probably plugged . . . most likely from rust particles from inside of tank due to sitting long time with mostly empty tank . . . water vapor condensation.Originally Posted by Bo Mows
Have you replaced fuel filter between pump and carb? Do so!
1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970: ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P
I'm using a large jar full of fresh fuel (fuel tank needs cleaning). I can fill the bowl full of fuel and still won't pump fuel into carb.
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
BOOOOMMMMMnnnnnOriginally Posted by Bo Mows
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Texas Opel Preservation Society
let me rephrase the "jar" I made a large jar with a 6' hose and a sealed lid that has a vent tube that i use to rebuild lawnmower motors and use it when the tank is shot. If my wife smelled gas in the garage then it would be BOOOOMMM for me![]()
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Don't forget to get the 2 gaskets for the pump spacer!
How much trouble is it to go to an electric pump? Would i wire it to the engine run leg of ignition? Can i use almost any electric pump?
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
you would need a low pressure pump (around 3 psi ) or a 5 with a pressure regulator a filter and an inertia trip switch or oil pressure trip switch incase of the worsed and it would shut off if you hit something or roll over
a vain type pump is quiet and you can mount it under the rear of the car near the tank
Copyright © 2003-2010 barry williams
All Rights Reserved
B.O.O.B. founding member
Got mine from Auto Zone- works great but make sure to get an inertia cut off switchOriginally Posted by Bo Mows
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Texas Opel Preservation Society
I have been shopping for a new fuel pump for my gt. I called opel gt source and they said all they have is an elec. pump. I called advance auto parts about 2 hrs. ago and they said they have 3 in warehouse and if i come and pay for it ( about 40 $ ) i will have it the next day. Hope this info may help.
Bo. Mows Check out this thread, http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...tric+fuel+pump. I wasn't able to put the switchs' in as per Ottos, and others suggestions, but I found an inertia switch on Ebay from an MG. There is another thread about them around here somewhere.
I ran it all through a relay, hooked to a cutoff switch in the dash so I can manually shut it off. Another search will turn up many inovations on how people have done theirs.
If you do put in an electric fuel pump, you really do need some way to shut it down in case of wreck. That is a definite safety issue. HTH, Jarrell
You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)
i got a really nice aftermarket fuel pump from napa 3 years ago for my GT. got about 25,000 miles on that paticular pump, with 3 different cars, and more than 3 different engines, LOL. its a federal mougal pump made in italy.
previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.
currently own
92 25th anniversary Z28. Ttop, 350, T56 swap, many upgrades, basically a complete restore.
67 chevy sportvan deluxe....next in line.
I found an elect fuel pump at NAPA rated at 1 1/2 to 4 lbs. Is this too much for a weber without a pressure switch or should i get one anyway? I saw the thread in the previous post with the elect pump and the oil switch screwed into the block, does this use oil pressure or is this just a convenient placed to put it?
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Bo, this could be a long explantion, but here goes: Carbed engines that have an electric pump from the factory have an oil pressure switch in the electrical circuit that grounds out the fuel pump if there's no oil pressure. EFI cars with a lot higher fuel pump pressure also have an inertia switch. Which means in the event of a crash the fuel pump is turned off so if there is a break in the fuel lines, there won't be fuel spraying all over. Both are safety issues, and if folks aren't aware of them, they can be a PIA. On the monza, if I don't drive it for a couple of days , it takes a lot of cranking on the engine to get fuel to the carb. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
Update on the carb not getting gas. Well, I soaked the carb in a degreaser (industrial at work) for a few minutes cause it's hell on aluminum. Then soaked it in top dollar carb fluid. Washed in extreme hot water then blow out all ports with air. Now the acc pump is pumping like crazy into the throat. Now gonna put back on the car and see. Is there a turn setting on the needle vavle that's just under the air cleaner platform? I posted on the downdraft section a question that pertains to this, sorta: How do you set the water choke? This is the last hurdle for the motor (just purchased the electric pump and switch and going back with that tomorrow) now i move on to the brake system.
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Not exactly, grasshopper. The proper safety switch (see below) is SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) electrically and connects its Common (Switching) contact to the EFP positive (+) terminal (EFP negative terminal is grounded at pump), its NC (Normally Closed) contact to the ignition switch "Start" contact and its NO (Normally Open) contact to any "switched (ignition key 'ON')" 12V source.Originally Posted by Bo Mows
This provides 12V from the ignition switch "Start" contact via the safety switch NC contact to the EFP during starting and "switched 12V" via the safety switch NO contact (now closed by oil pressure) to the EFP once the engine starts and as long as there is oil pressure (engine running). This fills the carb fuel bowl VERY quickly, as the pump runs immediately upon key being moved to "Start" position. It does NOT require the engine to be turning over for it to function like the mechanical pump does. That's all there is to it!
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Last edited by tekenaar; 10-14-2005 at 04:39 PM.
1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970: ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P
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