Carter Fuel Pump Wiring

[ronskydivepops]

Anyone know the best way to wire the carter electric fuel pump. I just got mine and the directions seem a little confusing as far as the hot wire for the pump?

[namba209]

Ron, don't know what the wiring is on the pump, whether it's just a positive lead and ground, but Otto (AKA Tekenaar) just posted a pic of his with the oil pressure switch cutoff on an earlier thread. One thing I would do is make sure the positive lead is a switched position and is protected by a fuse and maybe 12 gage wire going to the pump. It's a fair long way from the fuse panel to the pump and there will be some line loss, and fair high amperage to run the pump continously. For Willit? and the two fuel pumps, I used a relay powering two CBs then out to the pumps. HTH.

[soybean]

I don't know how to post a single post from a thread, but here's the thread. Ottos post and pictures are post nos. 14. I'd run it off a relay from a terminal block with a fusible link for added protection. This might not be needed if you go the way Otto posted. HTH, Jarrell
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-pu...fuel-pump.html

[baz]

jarrell you click on the hash # and that opens the 1 post then copy and paste as usual
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=14

[soybean]

Wow, I learn something new every day. Jarrell

[ronskydivepops]

I'm still lost. The info you guys mentioned doesn't really say how to connect the wires. The instructions say "If vehicle has a oil pressure warning light, remove lead from existing pressure switch and connect to "P" terminal of pressure switch. That's all it has for instructions. The post I looked at only show an electric fuel pump safety switch. It doesn't show any wiring. I know one should be a hot wire to the switch and then to the pump, but I'm not sure about the third wire. If I remember the GT oil pressure sending unit just has the two electric terminals! So if I install a new safety switch like the post shows, where would I run the third wire to??

[baz]

ron you could try the search engine and look for electric fuel pump ,ok theres only 142 threads to look at but im sure 1 of them will be of help

[namba209]

Ron, your pump has 3 wires on it? If so then it must have an internal safety switch for when you lose oil pressure, if it is hooked up to the oil pressure transmitter. Now, the oil pressure transmitter does indeed have two wires connected to it. One is to create a ground for the lite in the gage, the other is a variable resistor to operate the gage itself. Trail and error are the only way to check out which wire is which, unless you want to splice in at the wire for the lite coming in from the gage to the fuse panel. According the my DESTEC schematic that wire is #6 position in the red connector, a Light Blue/Green wire. HTH.

[ronskydivepops]

No, my fuel pump only has two wires-ground and power. I'm waiting to post a picture of the instructions. Be back in a while.Back to sanding down my wooden dash veneer inlay

[bq97]

I have the same Carter electric fuel pump on my GT, one ground and one labeled “P”.

IIRC you can’t use the GT’s oil pressure sensor to run the pump because the OP switch works in the opposite manor, i.e. when engine OP drops the switch grounds the idiot light circuit thus illuminating the light.

Perhaps the three wire confusion is with the NAPA OP6610 oil pressure switch in Otto’s post which BTW is an excellent way to power the electric fuel pump and provide a safety to stop the pump if oil pressure drops.

The P wire on the Carter pump is where the pump gets the 12vdc. On a positive OP switch the 12vdc could come from the OEM OP switch. The NAPA OP switch has three terminals, two 12vdc inputs and one 12vdc output. The one 12vdc output goes to the P terminal on the carter fuel pump. One 12vdc input is wire to a switched 12vdc source on the car so the 12vdc will be passed thru the NAPA OP switch to the fuel pump when the ignition is on and engine OP is above the switches baseline. This is for normal running operations. The other 12vdc input to the NAPA OP switch is from the car’s ignition start circuit. That way the OP switch and therefore the fuel pump get feed 12vdc during start up regardless of the engines oil pressure. Is this clear as mud?

hth
Brian

[ronskydivepops]

It's mud to me right now. Sometimes my mind just draws a blank when it comes to wiring, plus I'm in the middle of three other projects as well. Think I'll clear my mind with a dip in the pool(I can do that here in Florida, in the middle of winter. )

[baz]

i never like to run an electric pump without in inertia switch , an oil pressure switch is ok but in a crash you can still have fuel being pumped for a few mins till the gas in the carb gets burnt

[bq97]

With an OP switch as long as the engine is running the fuel pump will continue to pump, once the engine stops OP drops and the fuel pump quits. As long as the engine is running it's not a major issue to have fuel being pumped to the carb, if it were there would be no such thing as a mechanical fuel pump.

Brian

[baz]

i am thinking of burst/cut fuel lines and things like that

[tekenaar]

Just added an OP6610 wiring post to my post that Brian mentioned earlier in this thread.

[namba209]

I'm sure glad all that peripheral stuff is taken care of by the computer on Willit?. All I had to do was hook up a relay to the fuel request wire and everything is supposed to work. I'm not sure if the signal gets interrupted by RPM, MAP, MAF or oil pressure, but it is supposed to shutoff the signal when the motor dies for whatever reason, thereby shutting off both fuel pumps.

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by tekenaar Just added an OP6610 wiring post to my post that Brian mentioned earlier in this thread.

OK, I have all the parts together for the electric fuel pump conversion.
*Carter fuel pump (P60504) mounted as OTTO shows.
*Old fuel pump off.
*Block-off plate on.
*Pressure switch (OP6610) on.
*I ran a #16 wire from the "P" terminal on the switch to the Pump "+" terminal.
*I ran a #16 wire from the "I" terminal on the switch to the fuse box "key on" terminal.
*I ran a #16 wire from the "S" terminal on the switch....... But what terminal on the starter do I hook it to for "start" position?????
See attached picture of my starter.
Electrically stupid.
Lyle

[namba209]

Lyle, I would suggest using the same lug the coil wire is attached to on the starter solenoid, or the small bolt that connects the solenoid large terminal to the starter motor on the bottom of the solenoid. Either of these connections only gets power when the solenoid is powered by the ignition switch in the start position. Reason being it will get power from the battery and not through the ignition switch if connected to the wire from the ignition switch that powers the solenoid. I don't have a starting circuit on the monza, so when the fuel evaporates from the carb, I have to motor the engine until my oil lite goes off which turns on the fuel pump, wait for the lite to come back on, then repeat again until I finally get fuel to the carb and the engine starts. HTH.

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by namba209 Lyle, I would suggest using the same lug the coil wire is attached to on the starter solenoid, or the small bolt that connects the solenoid large terminal to the starter motor on the bottom of the solenoid. Either of these connections only gets power when the solenoid is powered by the ignition switch in the start position. Reason being it will get power from the battery and not through the ignition switch if connected to the wire from the ignition switch that powers the solenoid. HTH.

Thanks for the quick reply Ron.
Will use the bottom solenoid terminal for my pump start-up wire, "S" on the oil pressure switch.
Lyle

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by tekenaar Just added an OP6610 wiring post to my post that Brian mentioned earlier in this thread. Originally Posted by Tru-Craft OK, I have all the parts together for the electric fuel pump conversion. *Carter fuel pump (P60504) mounted as OTTO shows. *Old fuel pump off. *Block-off plate on. *Pressure switch (OP6610) on. *I ran a #16 wire from the "P" terminal on the switch to the Pump "+" terminal. *I ran a #16 wire from the "I" terminal on the switch to the fuse box "key on" terminal. *I ran a #16 wire from the "S" terminal on the switch....... But what terminal on the starter do I hook it to for "start" position????? See attached picture of my starter. Electrically stupid. Lyle

Answer:

[trlmr]

To supply power to an accessory- fuel pump, daytime running lamps, electric choke, etc, it is best to have that accessory powered only when the engine is running. This can be done with the use of the factory oil pressure sender and the use of relays. You will need to buy two mini iso relays one of which MUST be a form c relay (also called a changeover relay). The form c I used was tyco part # 5-1393302-8. The primary relay may or may not be a form c - it doesn't matter for the primary. You can tell by looking at the bottom of any relay to tell if it is a form c. A relay has terminals numbered on the bottom. A form c will be numbered 85,86,87, 87a and 30. The 85 is used as a ground to power the coil. 86 is used to energize the coil. 30 is the input power. 87 is the terminal that will be powered when the coil is energized (assuming the 30 terminal has power and 85 is grounded) 87a will be energized when the coil is NOT energized. This can be accomplished by either not energizing terminal 86 or not grounding terminal 85.
I wired my car as follows:
First of all I took power directly from the battery through a 20 amp circuit breaker. I wired everything on the passenger side in front of the radiator as there is a lot of room and I didn't have to clutter up an already confusing fuse box.

Primary relay Terminal 30 -power wire from circuit breaker
Terminal 85 -to a good ground
Terminal 86 -switched power (I used the horn circuit)
Terminal 87 -to terminal 30 on the secondary relay
Terminal 87a-blank ( some relays won't have this terminal)

Secondary relay Terminal 30 -to terminal 87 on primary
Terminal 85 -to the idiot light terminal on oil sender
Terminal 86 swiched power (same as primary)
Terminal 87 -blank
Terminal 87a - to fuel pump, choke, Day lamp, etc.
The factory oil pressure sender has two terminals, one is the gauge and one is the idiot light. The light is grounded to the block when there is no pressure. I believe the threaded one is the gauge and the male spade is the light. Please confirm this because I am going from memory. I installed a diode between terminal 85 on the secondary relay and the oil sender to prevent backfeeding from the idiot light, you could also cut the wire to the light or remove the bulb, either would work.
To provide power to prime an electric pump when the motor is not running
you will need to run the ground wire through the cabin between terminal 85 on the secondary relay and the terminal on the oil sender. Install a MOMEMTARY OFF switch (a push button that must be held is ideal) This will power the pump when the motor is not running provided the key is turned on.
This may sound confusing but that is only because I didn't explain it very well. It really isn't complex at all. You can buy wiring plugs and ends from sources on the internet. I would recommend it as it make the chance of shorting terminals unlikely. I hope this helps someone trying to wire his fuel pump safely. And I apologize If this way has been posted before
I will try to attach a picture of the relays

[tekenaar]

Posted ages ago and referenced with links earlier in this thread . . .

Originally Posted by tekenaar Here's my recommendation for low pressure fuel pump: and safety device:

. . . and additional wiring clarification . . .

Originally Posted by tekenaar Not quite, Ron, and my original wiring post earlier in this thread is evidently not as clear as I thought . . . so here are the actual electrical connections: I = NO = any switched 12V source from Ignition key 'On' position. S = NC = ignition key 'Start' position, on only during engine start. P = CO = Pump + power terminal. OK?

[trlmr]

I read those threads. Maybe I misunderstood them though. It looked to me that you needed another oil switch the way is was described. The way I did it you use the existing one.

[GWK]

Hi guys -

I've been following along with the carter pump installation. Now my oil pressure switch is installed, but it's pretty dark and dirty in the vicinity of any I S and P markings. Anyone know which is which - say talking clockwise from the left most terminal in the picture posted above?

Thanks,
GW

[jmbinjax]

Based on the photo in post #22, the left terminal is "P", the top terminal is "S", and the right terminal is "I."