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Old 10-08-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Cannister

Would there be a problem with doing away with the cannister and just venting the tank to the air? This is a 71 I am restoring and as I look at my 69 it just vents to the air
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Old 10-08-2007   #2 (permalink)
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hmm

Do you mean besides the pollution, gas fumes, and fact that on a hot day the gas in your tank would be disappearing rapidly from your tank? Nope, the car will still work and run without the charcoal canister.
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Old 10-08-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Lez, are you still interested in those hard brake lines I forgot about at RT66?
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Last edited by tekenaar; 10-08-2007 at 10:39 AM. Reason: RT766?
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Old 10-08-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lezliewk View Post
Would there be a problem with doing away with the cannister and just venting the tank to the air? This is a 71 I am restoring and as I look at my 69 it just vents to the air
When I bought my car, there was an open connection (just a 3 feet hose)between the tank-vent and the open air. When my car was parked in the garage, the whole house was smelling of gasoline and I had to open all windows to have some clean air inside. Had a constant headache!. As I was working in a laboratory at that time, I got hold of an old in-line gas-purifying container. I refilled it with active charcoal (handy if one is working in a laboratory and a lot of chemicals and material are widely available), cut the vent hose and placed the filter between the tank-outlet and the vent-opening underneath the car. The filter is mounted in the spare-tire area and completely out of sight. Since then no more problems with gasoline smell in the house. So my suggestion is not to remove the canister for your own and others health. I will post a picture of the filter and how it's mounted in the car later.
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Last edited by tekenaar; 10-08-2007 at 10:41 AM. Reason: cannister - one 'n'
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Old 10-08-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Active charcoal

Originally Posted by pecje View Post
When I bought my car, there was an open connection (just a 3 feet hose)between the tank-vent and the open air. When my car was parked in the garage, the whole house was smelling of gasoline and I had to open all windows to have some clean air inside. Had a constant headache!. As I was working in a laboratory at that time, I got hold of an old in-line gas-purifying container. I refilled it with active charcoal (handy if one is working in a laboratory and a lot of chemicals and material are widely available), cut the vent hose and placed the filter between the tank-outlet and the vent-opening underneath the car. The filter is mounted in the spare-tire area and completely out of sight. Since then no more problems with gasoline smell in the house. So my suggestion is not to remove the canister for your own and others health. I will post a picture of the filter and how it's mounted in the car later.
. . . they use that in aquarium filtration, too.
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Old 10-08-2007   #6 (permalink)
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As promised, pictures of how the in-line filter is mounted in the car and a picture of a spare filter I have (this spare one has a diifferent shape than the one in the car, lenght is in cm!)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Filter 001.jpg (87.6 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg Filter 002.jpg (94.7 KB, 51 views)
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Old 10-08-2007   #7 (permalink)
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thanks

I will just replace the lines to the canister and leave it in the car
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Old 10-08-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Necessity ....

Yep - you need a canister for the reason given.
Most later model cars have nice black plastic canisters with a more sophisticated valving arangement on them to suck the fumes back out - got one off an Isuzu from a wreck for $1
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Old 11-05-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Aftermarket vapor canister

Does anyone have a good part number for an aftermarket vapor canister?

Thanks,

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Old 11-05-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Nathan, I did some searching and found this, that I put on Willit? It requires a mod to the bracket, but works just fine.


What I did for a charcoal cannister on Willit? was to go through the books at my local Kragens, these folks have been very helpful on both the GT and the monza, We ran the different cannister part numbers for GM looking for the cheapest that would work and came up with one for around $40. Some were over a $100, and came up with a Rochester Control Products 3-port unit. It has 3 sets of numbers on it so I'll give them all. "PA66", "20341", and "17075840-FL". The ports are labeled "VAC" "PCV", and "FUEL TANK" It is a bit larger diameter than the original cannister and all plastic with a filter element in the bottom. HTH.
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Last edited by namba209; 11-05-2007 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 11-05-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Ron,

Thanks a million. Been looking for something decent at the junk yard but was coming up empy.

Btw the part number 17075840-FL minus the FL came up as a AC Delco Fuel Vapor Canister so that is a good head start. Did not get anything on the other numbers.

I'll have to go check it out.

Thanks again,

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Old 11-05-2007   #12 (permalink)
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No problem Nathan. What I did to the original bracket to fit mine in, was to cut the bracket opposite the clamping bolt, slide the cannister in, then tighten the bolt so it would clamp onto the structure and hold the cannister in place. HTH.
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Old 11-05-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Ron,

Thanks for the info, but none of my cars has the bracket. No GT I have ever worked on (8+) have ever had them. Must be one of the early things to disappear along with the fuse box cover and distributer cover

But again, the part number helped.

-Nathan
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Old 11-05-2007   #14 (permalink)
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I am pretty sure I have a bracket if you want one. PM if you do.
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Old 11-05-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tomking View Post
I am pretty sure I have a bracket if you want one. PM if you do.
Tom,

Wow I appreciate the offer. However, I will probably not mount it up front. I am planning on just fabing something.

Thanks much for the offer though

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Old 11-05-2007   #16 (permalink)
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I still have fumes, my line to canister just ends under the car by the axle. Guess I should put something on there eh?
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Old 11-06-2007   #17 (permalink)
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charcoal canister

The charcoal canister is one of the last things keeping me from putting my gt back on the street.I know the line from the tank goes to one side of the canister but does the other side go to the air filter housing and if so how ?I have a weber 32/36 carb with the stock air filter housing.I don't have a good charcoal canister yet so what is the best one to use?
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Old 11-06-2007   #18 (permalink)
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George, I can't say which is the best, but if the one I referred to Nathan is a good part number, then you could use that one. It has three ports, labeled "VAC" "PCV", and "FUEL TANK", so it would be easy to plumb in to your existing setup. Fuel Tank is easy, it goes to the tank vent line. PCV is also easy, it would go to the smaller of the two ports in the valve cover and VAC would go to the hose you took off the valve cover. If you have the original cannister bracket, because the cannister I referred to Nathan is a bit larger than original, you have to cut the bracket opposite the clamp bolt so that when you mount it to the structure, it will clamp on the structure and hold the cannister in place. HTH.
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Old 11-06-2007   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by George View Post
The charcoal canister is one of the last things keeping me from putting my gt back on the street.I know the line from the tank goes to one side of the canister but does the other side go to the air filter housing and if so how ?I have a weber 32/36 carb with the stock air filter housing.I don't have a good charcoal canister yet so what is the best one to use?
This is the OEM way. (I guess, I don't have anything left of it)

Maybe not the best of advice, I think that's where I got the "not needing the cannister" theory. That and he doesn't mention the small opening in the T at the filler neck. Still the diagram and description is worth looking at.
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Old 11-06-2007   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
George, I can't say which is the best, but if the one I referred to Nathan is a good part number, then you could use that one. It has three ports, labeled "VAC" "PCV", and "FUEL TANK", so it would be easy to plumb in to your existing setup. Fuel Tank is easy, it goes to the tank vent line. PCV is also easy, it would go to the smaller of the two ports in the valve cover and VAC would go to the hose you took off the valve cover. If you have the original cannister bracket, because the cannister I referred to Nathan is a bit larger than original, you have to cut the bracket opposite the clamp bolt so that when you mount it to the structure, it will clamp on the structure and hold the cannister in place. HTH.
So I need to put a tee in the two hoses coming from the valve cover?
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Old 11-06-2007   #21 (permalink)
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George didnt Fla. drop the emissions testing back in 2000?
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Old 11-06-2007   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by George View Post
So I need to put a tee in the two hoses coming from the valve cover?
Not at all, The hose that goes to the smaller fitting comes from a vacuum source, so all you need to do is connect a hose from the smaller of the fittings and hook it up to the PCV port on the cannister, then extend the hose you removed and put it on the VAC port of the cannister. For amplification, the smaller of the two fittings in the valve cover goes to a vacuum source, which takes the "blow-by" and pulls into the engine intake for burning. The larger of the fittings pulls in air from the filtered air of the air cleaner and is a source of air so there won't be a vacuum in the engine cavities. All you're really doing is putting the cannister "in-line" with the original set-up and pulling fuel tank vapors along with it. HTH.
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Old 11-06-2007   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
Not at all, The hose that goes to the smaller fitting comes from a vacuum source, so all you need to do is connect a hose from the smaller of the fittings and hook it up to the PCV port on the cannister, then extend the hose you removed and put it on the VAC port of the cannister. For amplification, the smaller of the two fittings in the valve cover goes to a vacuum source, which takes the "blow-by" and pulls into the engine intake for burning. The larger of the fittings pulls in air from the filtered air of the air cleaner and is a source of air so there won't be a vacuum in the engine cavities. All you're really doing is putting the cannister "in-line" with the original set-up and pulling fuel tank vapors along with it. HTH.
OK now I understand.thank you
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Old 11-06-2007   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
George didnt Fla. drop the emissions testing back in 2000?
Yes they dropped the testing but I have to stop the gas smell.Until now the line going to the charcoal canister has not been connected and the gas smell is strong.I've replaced all the vent hoses and the line coming out of the tank so this is the only other place (I hope) the gas smell could be coming from.The emissions test were a joke.I drive a 1978 datsun truck without all the emissions crap and no catalitic converter and it never failed to pass.
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Old 11-06-2007   #25 (permalink)
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George, does it smell gassy in the car as well as out? Just curious, i'm in the same boat at the moment. Canister hunting and all that.

This one didn't sell for $18 and Autozone has one new for $29.
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