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Old 11-10-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Answered: replacing gas tank & electric pump.

Few Questions. Gas tank is out & being sent out to get renewed & get sock off.What is the internal thread size of the tank. Going to the OGTS posi-flow electric fuel pump. Need to decide on either using a 5\16 wire meshed rubber lines lines.If I go that way how much do I need.I hear OGTS has pre bent lines to fit.If that's the case, what size is it & is it metal or plastic.Not going plastic but would consider metal lines if they're 5/16" at least.Are they pressure fit..Any advice would be great.Thanks.Including oil pressure switch etc.What kind & is it worth it.OGTS said they've haven't heard the request for oil safety switch in years??

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-11-2008 at 10:30 AM.. Reason: useing; I here . . . where?; concider
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Most Helpful Answer - Posted by CDN OpelNut
Dale - I ordered a 10' length of 5/16" steel braided line from Summit (item SPE-29310 $24.95) and ran it from the tank to the carb. It was a bit short so I'd get 15' to be safe.

I picked up the OP switch from Napa (OP6610) and the required adapter from E-gauges.com p/n R7963.

I got it from E-gauges as I was getting something else too but you may be able to find it locally - 1/8" NPT female x M14x1.5 male.

Corey
Old 11-10-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Dale - I ordered a 10' length of 5/16" steel braided line from Summit (item SPE-29310 $24.95) and ran it from the tank to the carb. It was a bit short so I'd get 15' to be safe.

I picked up the OP switch from Napa (OP6610) and the required adapter from E-gauges.com p/n R7963.

I got it from E-gauges as I was getting something else too but you may be able to find it locally - 1/8" NPT female x M14x1.5 male.

Corey
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Old 11-10-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CDN OpelNut View Post
Dale - I ordered a 10' length of 5/16" steel braided line from Summit (item SPE-29310 $24.95) and ran it from the tank to the carb. It was a bit short so I'd get 15' to be safe.

I picked up the OP switch from Napa (OP6610) and the required adapter from E-gauges.com p/n R7963.

I got it from E-gauges as I was getting something else too but you may be able to find it locally - 1/8" NPT female x M14x1.5 male.

Corey
Eh Thanks trail man.That helps a lot.Any other input out there would be great too.

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-11-2008 at 11:36 AM.. Reason: allot - to distribute
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Old 11-11-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Red face Found by simple "Search" . . .

. . . " 71 GT Electric Fuel Pump " . . . from 09-04-2005 . . . and " Carter Fuel Pump Wiring " . . . from 01-10-2006 . . .

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-11-2008 at 11:40 AM.. Reason: add second thread
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Old 11-11-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
. . . " 71 GT Electric Fuel Pump " . . . from 09-04-2005 . . . and " Carter Fuel Pump Wiring " . . . from 01-10-2006 . . .
Thanks tekenaar.Brings up another question though. If I use the Napa oil safety switch ,will it work properly if my ignition starter system is rigged with a push button start.The way it is wired now i turn the key all the way on & use a push button to start it.? thanks for any input from you electrical people.

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-12-2008 at 11:45 AM.. Reason: takenaar; sefety
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Old 11-11-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Arrow That would be a "YES!" . . .

Originally Posted by Dale .D View Post
Thanks takenaar.Brings up another question though. If I use the Napa oil sefety switch ,will it work properly if my ignition starter system is rigged with a push button start.The way it is wired now i turn the key all the way on & use a push button to start it.? thanks for any input from you electrical people.
. . . it makes no difference how you power the starter solenoid, which also powers the safety switch during "Start", Dale! . . . the operative word here is "power" not "source", OK?
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Old 11-11-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
. . . it makes no difference how you power the starter solenoid, which also powers the safety switch during "Start", Dale! . . . the operative word here is "power" not "source", OK?
.OK! Like to dot my I's & cross my t's before I get into it.
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Old 11-12-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Exclamation Uh, quick question . . .

Originally Posted by Dale .D View Post
Few Questions. Gas tank is out & being sent out to get renewed & get sock off.What is the internal thread size of the tank. Going to the OGTS posi-flow electric fuel pump. Need to decide on either using a 5\16 wire meshed rubber lines lines.If I go that way how much do I need.I hear OGTS has pre bent lines to fit.If that's the case, what size is it & is it metal or plastic.Not going plastic but would consider metal lines if they're 5/16" at least.Are they pressure fit..Any advice would be great.Thanks.Including oil pressure switch etc.What kind & is it worth it.OGTS said they've haven't heard the request for oil safety switch in years??
. . . meant to post this earlier, but why are you so concerned with replacing fuel lines for essentially a 3.5 psi max fuel system, Dale?! . . . especially since the stock black/clear nylon (it isn't just 'plastic') line size is already 5/16" (8mm)!

Volvo successfully used essentially the same nylon tubing in their FI (35-45 psi) cars for many years, and without any clamps at the pump even! . . . heated black nylon fuel line ends were shrunk over EFP fittings!
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1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
Old 11-12-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
. . . meant to post this earlier, but why are you so concerned with replacing fuel lines for essentially a 3.5 psi max fuel system, Dale?! . . . especially since the stock black/clear nylon (it isn't just 'plastic') line size is already 5/16" (8mm)!

Volvo successfully used essentially the same nylon tubing in their FI (35-45 psi) cars for many years, and without any clamps at the pump even! . . . heated black nylon fuel line ends were shrunk over EFP fittings!
Eh Otto great picture! Good question .Some how I was under the impression that the line was 1/4 inch & the line plastic & inferior.Shouldn't I be replacing the 36 year old line? If so what mateial & size. I see some go 3/8ths.The electric pumps in,mechanical blocked off,tanks out getting renwed but the original fuel lines are still there.We appreciate your input greatly.Always looking at ways to improve.
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Old 11-13-2008   #10 (permalink)
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If you want to go away from plastic I would go to aluminum that you can get in rolls from Summit. I worked with steel, aluminum, and stainless braided line when I did my fuel system and the aluminum is easiest to work with and stays put after it is bent. If you go with the aluminum you should make sure that you use rubber insulators under all the body clamps to avoid abrasion and galvanic action between the dissimilar metals. The easiest size to use is 3/8" because there are many fittings and adapters of the 6AN size available (6 stands for 6 sixteenths of and inch which is naturally 3/8").
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Old 11-13-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dale .D View Post
Eh Otto great picture! Good question .Some how I was under the impression that the line was 1/4 inch & the line plastic & inferior.Shouldn't I be replacing the 36 year old line? If so what mateial & size. I see some go 3/8ths.The electric pumps in,mechanical blocked off,tanks out getting renwed but the original fuel lines are still there.We appreciate your input greatly.Always looking at ways to improve.
You are very correct, the OEM line is plastic and should be replaced. Almost every Opel I've worked on in the last 10 years had original plastic lines that would crack and crumble just by grabbing it with your hand and giving a twist. Not inspiring! New plastic lines would be okay, however metal gives a little more peace of mind.

Stock 8 mm line (5/16" for all intents and purposes) is fine until you start getting near 130-140 hp with a single-carbureted engine. After that you need to consider 3/8" line. If you run dual sidedraft carbs, or EFI, then this 'rule' doesn't apply. 5/16" line and EFI is usually good for about 400-450 hp.
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Old 11-13-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
You are very correct, the OEM line is plastic and should be replaced. Almost every Opel I've worked on in the last 10 years had original plastic lines that would crack and crumble just by grabbing it with your hand and giving a twist. Not inspiring! New plastic lines would be okay, however metal gives a little more peace of mind.

Stock 8 mm line (5/16" for all intents and purposes) is fine until you start getting near 130-140 hp with a single-carbureted engine. After that you need to consider 3/8" line. If you run dual sidedraft carbs, or EFI, then this 'rule' doesn't apply. 5/16" line and EFI is usually good for about 400-450 hp.
Thanks Bob for clearing things up.I was thinking since the old line is still there would it be OK to use that tube to put the positive wire from the electric pump to the safety switch & up.?
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Old 11-13-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dale .D View Post
Thanks Bob for clearing things up.I was thinking since the old line is still there would it be OK to use that tube to put the positive wire from the electric pump to the safety switch & up.?
Personally, I wouldn't use that plastic fuel line at all. Like Bob said, if you move it, it will more than likely turn to dust. Best bet is to run the electric line along the harness form the OP Sitch through the firewall and into the harness going too the rear lights, then through the floor pan, with a grommet to the fuel pump, using a short piece of convulated tubing to shield the wire. JMTCW.
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Old 11-13-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
Personally, I wouldn't use that plastic fuel line at all. Like Bob said, if you move it, it will more than likely turn to dust. Best bet is to run the electric line along the harness form the OP Sitch through the firewall and into the harness going too the rear lights, then through the floor pan, with a grommet to the fuel pump, using a short piece of convulated tubing to shield the wire. JMTCW.
It was just a thought. Your right.Should'nt be thinking of cutting corners.Just causes more problems in the long run.Time to lift the rear deck again after installing the electric fuel pump.Thanks for setting me straight.
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