1973 Opel GT - Page 2

Lockley · 09-22-2009

Bad part done. This car was hit in the rear at least once. The channel with the rear sheet metal brackets was pushed in almost four inches. This was repairable with the sheet metal removed. I like the shape for the GT enough to do this cut and splice and I would do it again. Dave

Lockley · 09-23-2009

Thought I would check the fuel sending unit while it’s out of the car and sure enough it did not work (That’s my Opel). Everyone hears me say that a lot. So, was going to disassemble the unit but instead tried rotating the unit to move the float a few times. It worked. This may be the only easy to fix part but at least something was easy.

mc1457 · 09-23-2009

Shoulda put a hinge on it and made a trunk!

(er...referring to the photo of the test fit of the replacement rear a couple posts back)

Lockley · 09-23-2009

Would be cool with a hatch back

Lockley · 10-02-2009

I have the rear almost tacked on so that the bodywork can continue. Cut some carpet for the front floorboards. Pulled the clock out of the dash to clean it and what do you know it does run.

I was wandering if anyone had started with a GT in as bad of shape as what I started with? I would like to see pics of what the worst one would be. Dave

wrench459 · 10-02-2009

WOW great progress with you only being 13 months into the project.
Keep up the good work.

mc1457 · 10-04-2009

Originally Posted by Lockley

Hey thanks guys but I do not have the money for the glass one and I did see the one on fleabay. Started the prep today; looks like it will be ok. I’ll get some pics soon. This is a very poor GT to rework so it will only get so much of my time.

I do have a question about the light system, where are the switches and relay on the GT? I do not have a shop manual or another car to view.

There are two relays - both are located on the fuse box. There is a micro switch on one of the rotators (can't recall which) that activates the relay to turn on the headlights when they are up and locked. The dimmer relay is activated off of the dimmer switch to send power to the highbeams.

There are two additonal micro switches, one on each rotator, that activate the "headlight lock" warning indicator in the dash.

I'm in the middle of installing a Kwik Wire harness (from www.ez2wire.com) and figuring all this out as I go.

Lockley · 10-04-2009

Thanks Wrench, I hope to get it painted this year then piece everything else together.

MC the service manual has lots of the information needed for the wiring. I got one from Harold and have started looking at the relays and under the inspection plate under the right fender, what a mess. But it can be repaired with a little work. Most of the wiring looks ok but the light circuit was cobbled very badly.

mc1457 · 10-08-2009

Originally Posted by Lockley

MC the service manual has lots of the information needed for the wiring. I got one from Harold and have started looking at the relays and under the inspection plate under the right fender, what a mess. But it can be repaired with a little work. Most of the wiring looks ok but the light circuit was cobbled very badly.

I got a laminated wiring diagram from JJ. Highly recommended. The one in the GT Resto book was too tiny. Jay gave me a 73 shop manual that's a great help too (plus he knows his stuff cold on the wiring since he built his own harness).

My son, Aidan (7), and I put in the fuse box last Saturday. This weekend I'm running the tail group and battery wires after I finish getting Colin's (9) "new" CRF80F running (he totally hosed the engine in his XR80R and we're pickup up a new used CRF80F this afternoon..."check the friggin oil this time, wouldja?"). I may even get the CS130D alternator installed.

Your project is pretty inspiring. My car isn't all I had hoped it would be and I seem to uncover new warts daily, but if you can bring yours back from the dead I'm pretty sure I can get mine where I want it to be.

Lockley · 10-13-2009

MC it is a lot to do but doing a little at a time eventually I’ll get it done. Did a little work on a few places and sprayed some primer to see more of what is to do.

The next one I do will start out with a much better car and I’m sure that I’ll have a lot more money in it.

At the age of these cars you can expect to find issues through out the car. But it’s still fun to rebuild one. Dave

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09-23-2009	#29 (permalink)
Lockley KI4UBK Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 27 Real Name: Dave	Would be cool with a hatch back

10-02-2009	#30 (permalink)
Lockley KI4UBK Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 27 Real Name: Dave	I have the rear almost tacked on so that the bodywork can continue. Cut some carpet for the front floorboards. Pulled the clock out of the dash to clean it and what do you know it does run. I was wandering if anyone had started with a GT in as bad of shape as what I started with? I would like to see pics of what the worst one would be. Dave

10-04-2009	#33 (permalink)
Lockley KI4UBK Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 27 Real Name: Dave	Thanks Wrench, I hope to get it painted this year then piece everything else together. MC the service manual has lots of the information needed for the wiring. I got one from Harold and have started looking at the relays and under the inspection plate under the right fender, what a mess. But it can be repaired with a little work. Most of the wiring looks ok but the light circuit was cobbled very badly.

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