Stupid questions thread.

[Redskinsjbs]

Originally Posted by First opel 1981 Who created the one in the PDF above. I would like to know if he would like input as to possible incorrect runs and other possible errors. Just trying to help. Thanks.

I made that diagram and I do know that there are errors in it, but if you catch any, please let me know.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs I made that diagram and I do know that there are errors in it, but if you catch any, please let me know.

Let me say that you did a great job. I am referring to it quite a bit. Thanks!!

I will PM you screenshots of the errors when I come across them. One, in particular, is a problem. Its not catastrophic but trying to figure out a problem with my wiring led me to discover the error.

Thanks again for making it.

[MonkeyNutZ]

I've got the gas tank unbolted, and all but the bottom fuel line (metal) is still attached, is there an easy way to disconnect it or should I simply cut it?

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ I've got the gas tank unbolted, and all but the bottom fuel line (metal) is still attached, is there an easy way to disconnect it or should I simply cut it?

Well, the bottom metal line is actually threaded into the tank. Unless you're going to clean the tank, and possibly add a new connection while it's out, I wouldn't cut it.

[MonkeyNutZ]

So I disconnected the rubber bit, now I assume I just get a wrench on the nut and yank on it? It wouldn't happen to be reverse threaded would it?

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ So I disconnected the rubber bit, now I assume I just get a wrench on the nut and yank on it? It wouldn't happen to be reverse threaded would it?

Reverse thread? Meaning left handed threads? No, but, I would hit it with some PB Blaster or your favorite Lubricant/penetrant and let it set for a while, before giving it a 'yank"

[blancojp]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ So I disconnected the rubber bit, now I assume I just get a wrench on the nut and yank on it? It wouldn't happen to be reverse threaded would it?

There should be very little effort to remove this connection. Yes it is tight but does not require very much to let it loose. It might also be a compound assembly, meaning you will have a nipple on the tank and a fitting holding the pipe in place.

In order to get the tank out on Stealth, I had to remove this unit and I though was going to be hard to do. It was removed in less than 5 minutes and out went the tank.

[MonkeyNutZ]

I had to cut it

The tank is out and guess what? Some "hooligans" at some point in my cars history decided it would be funny to put rocks in the gas tank. I was going to have it cleaned anyway but still, who would do that?

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ I had to cut it The tank is out and guess what? Some "hooligans" at some point in my cars history decided it would be funny to put rocks in the gas tank. I was going to have it cleaned anyway but still, who would do that?

he only thing that makes any sense at all is the PO was thinking on pulling the tank and added some rocks to break loose any rust.

Stupid idea but its all that makes sense.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by First opel 1981 ...added some rocks to break loose any rust. Stupid idea but its all that makes sense.

Did this once on a farm tractor gas tank. Use nuts and bolts instead! The filler neck protruded into the tank. Want to guess how tired I got of shaking the tank upside down trying to get the rocks out? With nuts and bolts you can use a magnet.

Just my experience.

Harold

[MonkeyNutZ]

Originally Posted by First opel 1981 he only thing that makes any sense at all is the PO was thinking on pulling the tank and added some rocks to break loose any rust. Stupid idea but its all that makes sense.

Upon further shaking I found pieces of nuts and other organic matter, so I'm leaning towards hooligans.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ Upon further shaking I found pieces of nuts and other organic matter, so I'm leaning towards hooligans.

Did the PO have a 3yo at one time?

[Redskinsjbs]

Not that I am trying to defend and PO's as I have not hadvery good experiences with mine, but couldn't it just have been an overzelous squirrel? I mean, that car could have sat for a year in under some tree without a fuel tank lid and voila...stuff falls in or is put there.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Not that I am trying to defend and PO's as I have not hadvery good experiences with mine, but couldn't it just have been an overzelous squirrel? I mean, that car could have sat for a year in under some tree without a fuel tank lid and voila...stuff falls in or is put there.

I thought about a squirrel but squirrels don't hide rocks. Thats why I was thinking a 3yo. If the car was in the garage with no gas cap, I could see a 3yo fascinated by the sound of things being dropped inside the tank.

[MonkeyNutZ]

Well, the car sat in a salvage yard for quite a while, then it was in a garage in Dayton, OH for about 15 years. I doubt the PO would put stuff in the tank but the previous-PO might have, or someone did while it was at the salvage yard.

Besides the junk in the tank and a tiny bit of surface rust around the fuel line the tank seems to be in good shape. I'm not in any rush to get it cleaned as the car definitely won't be running any time soon.

EDIT: What about a three year old squirrel?

[MonkeyNutZ]

Since I'm pretty illiterate when it comes to designing circuits, I was wondering if someone could help me use an ottostart in conjunction with a momentary switch in the dash. I.E. have the key in the run position and have the momentary start the car.

[GTJIM]

I take it that the 'momentary switch' is some sort of push button start?

If so use the power from the momentary switch to operate and latch the Otto Start Relay - the relay then powers the starter solenoid to activate the starter. When the momentary switch is released the Relay un-latches and no more power to the starter solenoid =- so the starter stops rotating.
(If you understand my Irish!)

[markandson]

This is a link to the Otto start schematic. To change it to use a momentary switch instead of the key start position you would just wire one end of your new momentary switch to +12V and the other end to the "86" terminal of the relay.

[MonkeyNutZ]

What about retaining the key as a master switch? (Key to run position and momentary to start.) Would I just wire the two switches in series?

The only reason I'd be doing this is for security, I plan on hiding the momentary switch inside the cigarette lighter which I'm betting no one is going to think to press.

[markandson]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ What about retaining the key as a master switch? (Key to run position and momentary to start.) Would I just wire the two switches in series? The only reason I'd be doing this is for security, I plan on hiding the momentary switch inside the cigarette lighter which I'm betting no one is going to think to press.

If your start switch is failing why would you want to run anything through it? Plus if you run the switches in series you would have to hold the key in the start position at the same time you push the new switch....doesn't make any sense. With the system as I described it you would still have to turn the key to the run position before the car would start. If you wire the hot side of your new start button to a switched circuit from the key then the starter would not run unless the key was in the on position, this would be the preferred method anyway.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ The only reason I'd be doing this is for security, I plan on hiding the momentary switch inside the cigarette lighter which I'm betting no one is going to think to press.

A moot point now, all 10,000+ forum members and any internet guests viewing this all know your intents...so it's no secret anymore!

Security is so much more effective when you are the only one who knows about it!

[MonkeyNutZ]

Originally Posted by markandson With the system as I described it you would still have to turn the key to the run position before the car would start

So instead of running #86 to the key I'd wire in the momentary instead, right? What +12V btw?

I'm simply providing more reasons why I'm terrible at wiring designs.

[Redskinsjbs]

Bah Humbug! Step outta the way you looney know-nothings!!!

Ok, to be serious, this is what I would do . . .

Since you are already going to be depending on the key switch to let the car run, why don't you let it activate the otto-start relay as well? Like you said, run the coil or trigger circuit in series from a switched fuse (5, 6, or 7, or on the side with 4 fuses) to 86 on the relay to the momentary switch and finally to ground.

Then you just need a good +12V source for the 30 position on the relay and connect the 87 position to the starter.

Solved!

Here is a drawing to help . . .

[MonkeyNutZ]

So if I'm reading that correctly, the key would energize the relay and the momentary would keep it from completing the ground until pressed, right?

Wouldn't the key have to be in the "start" position at the same time?

[Redskinsjbs]

You read that correctly!

The key wouldn't have to be in the 'start' position because the one wire that is used from the 'start' position is replaced by the wire coming from the relay.