Yeah I think at some point I'll go for the fabric paint from duplicolor and just make it all black.
After our NORCAL OPELERS meet on Saturday 2/6/10, Al Olmo came over to my house and we took a look at my latest GT. He was quick to spot some things I had overlooked. When I replaced the fuel lines I didn't realize the metal hose that goes from the fuel pump across the top of the motor was missing. The last owner had replaced it with rubber fuel line. When I replaced it I rerouted it in front of the radiator along the brake booster hose to get the hose away from the engine heat. Al also noticed I was missing the vacuum advance hose from the ignition to the intake manifold. I guess that's why I had to set the idle so high in order to avoid having the car stall.
We started the motor up and Al said he thought the motor ran surprisingly smooth! Always good to hear good news from another persons perspective. Al also said he has a spare water pump he can give me and we can work on some other issues to get the car in better running shape.
So here's my next dilemna... the guy I bought the car from took the front calipers and pads off. I have some spare discs I may be able to get resurfaced and one set of spare new pads. Does anyone have a spare set of calipers they would be willing to part with? I'd like to be able to put the front brakes back together (ON A BUDGET) so I can at least drive the car around the block and get a feel for how the car runs and what needs further work. Otherwise I'll have to buy all new rotors, pads, and calipers, and brake hoses. Trying to avoid spending $600 to fix the brakes, only to find out there are major engine or transmission problems that need attention.
So after not doing much in the last couple weeks due to rain, I got back out in the last couple days to tinker some more. I drained the gear oil and pulled the differential cover off and cleaned out any sludge. I wanted to see how well things looked with the gears so I spun the rear wheels with the car in neutral, reverse, drive, 2, L... nothing happened. I slid under the car at at Eric (IGGY) suggestion I tried to manually turn the drive shaft...no go. I had already added a bit of transmission fluid. I started the car and put the car into reverse...no go. After a quick call to OGTS regarding some parts, Gil suggested adding more fluid.
I decided to drain the transmission fluid and drop the pan. I cleaned the inside and outside of the pan until it looked nearly new, reinstalled it and filled the fluid back up. At this point I started the motorup again and put the engine in reverse again and sure enough the wheels started to spin!
While on the phone with Gil at OGTS I was trying to figure out what vacuum lines were missing from my engine set up. I found the hard plastic vacuum advance and hooked that up to the bottom of the carb to the top of the vacuum on the distributor. And I believe the vacuum retard is supposed to hook up to the bottom of the vacuum on the distributor and go to the air intake manifold? This leaves me perplexed though.. where does the hose from the small opening on the valve cover go to? There are 3 inlets coming off the air intake manifold 1(auto trans) 2(brake boost) 3(vacuum retard?) I'm all confused so if anyone has a diagram of where all these extra small hoses go... please let me know!!!!:banghead: Also just below my weber 32/36 carb there are supposed to be 2 brass inlets and only ONE (to the right) is there...
Other than that I turned the running lights on in the eve and got some of the ones that were out to come back on by cleaning up the contacts. I think I'll eventually buy all new bulbs. The headlight wires are dead and have never been rewired yet. When I stepped on the brake pedal to see if the brake light worked it did! But it also squirted brake fluid from the rear line because the brake isn't hooked up... oh well at least I know the lines aren't clogged!
After scratching my head for the last few weeks wondering which direction I want to go in starting to restore my car, body first, engine first, brakes first, I thought I had decided on brakes. Until I realized that repairing my existing brakes including replacing worn or missing parts would cost me about $500 minimum and up to $1,500 if I were to replace and upgrade them. That's a LOT of money to spend just to find out how well the car does or does not ride while driving, since I haven't driven the car yet.
So I thought the other day it made more sense to start repairing the motor first and make sure that it runs strong... then get to the brakes. That way I'd be able to drive it to at least a couple of events by the end of summer.
On my to do list for the motor: replace water pump, replace thermostat, new upper and lower radiator hoses, new ground wire, replace vacuum advance and retard lines, electrical tune up. Oh yeah and pull the weber and rebuild it and put new seals in between the carb and the intake manifold along with installing a heat shield.
This is where my problem began! With my tools being limited to sockets only I had to take the four bolts to the carb off using the sockets. Because the person who installed them used 3 washers, there wasn't enough clearance for me to get the socket in and clear the tight area. (This is where right tool for the right job comes in! I should have gone down and bought a ratcheing wrench with a flexible neck!!) I didn't get the tool I needed and my socket wasn't going to fit. So I was going to have to remove the whole top end of the carb, AND the choke housing in order to acces that last bolt. Problem was 2 of the 6 screws that hold the choke housing on to the weber body were encrusted and stuck. Again if I'd had a different tool, a grinder, I could have just cut it off and ordered a new choke. Realizing this was not going to come off, and coming to terms with the fact that just buying a new weber might be a better solution to rebuilding.... I took a hammer and a crow bar and tried to pry the choke housing off the carb. This worked.. but it also broke part of the bowl! So unfortunately no weber left to rebuild. I'll have to buy a new one!
Yeah I guess I figured if the carb broke... oh well... a new one would be nice!
Don't feel bad I cut down a 13mm wrench to be able to easily bolt and unbolt my carb!
Hope you get it running for the summer... They're wonderful little cars to drive!
A hammer and a crow bar to remove the carb? All in fun, Neil, I await your removal of the exhaust manifold.:-)
Actually, I'm jealous that you're able to work on yours and I'm trying to fix my daily driver.
Have you got the heat shield? I picked one up for mine before I bought the FI set up. Cover shipping charges and it yours if you need it.
I did find a heat shield on a previous GT project and I held onto it! But thank you much! Latest news is I had an extra motor mount cross member, whatever you want to call it. I had pulled it from a parts car GT. I took it into this media blasting/powder coating place I wanted to try out. I got it back yesterday and it looks better than new in a nice gloss black! I'll be doing more blasting and powder coating with them on suspension parts next.
For everyone who's been reading my ongoing restoration, sorry for the delay. Between starting a new job and computer problems I haven't been online in a while.
That said I had a bit of a set back the last time I worked on my car. I tried to get the weber off and the last bolt was not accessible. I couldn't get the water choke off to lift the top of the carb off and get access to that one last bolt. I tried to pry the choke off... and it broke the carb.
Since then I've got another carb thanks to the generosity of one of our NorCal Opelers, Dieter (BMWOnly) Thanks Dieter! This weekend I installed the carb, painted and reinstalled the gas tank, cleaned up, painted and reinstalled the radiator, and installed a new water pump. Next comes finishing off the fuel lines from the tank to the fuel pump. The car started just fine, I have to install a manual choke cable and do some fine tuning.
The problem I had that I need some help with is the new water pump. It was a new old stock pump and the paper gasket seemed a bit thin. I put gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and installed the pump. I installed the bolts and tightened from top to bottom. I waited a few hours and poured the water into the radiator and almost immediately the water began to leak out near the bottom of the water pump!
My neighbor suggested that it may need a new gasket, which I'll be ordering soon. But he also suggested that the bolts to the water pump may need to be tightened in a certain order. Anyone have any insight on this? Suggestions and advice would be appreciated!
A while back I did a cylinder compression test. The dry cylinder tests came out to between 89-92. Not bad, or at least I thought. Until I spoke with one of our friends at OGTS last weekend when NorCal Opelers went on our fun run. We drove from Sacramento to Angels Camp and met with Gil, Dennis and Dave.
It wasn't until I began talking with Dave that I realized the numbers I had got on my readings were extraordinarily low. My odometer reads 41,xxx some miles. I'm guessing that isn't 141,xxx miles because this car was parked since 1988.
Either way after doing some reading of some materials from The Blitz from OMC, courtesy of Dave, I learned that you need to do a dry cylinder and wet cylinder test and compare the two. Not only that but I think I had not cranked my motor over enough times on the first dry tests I did.
So once I get my water pump woes solved and I can get someone to fine tune the carb and timing so the car idles good, I'll be taking more readings. I also realized in our conversation that over time my cylinder rings may have frozen and i'm not getting a good seal. I poured some SeaFoam into the engine oil and will put some in the tank when it's all hooked up. Hopefully this, and the new oil will help free up any gum deposits.
Torque sequence, hmmm. How about altenate back and forth across the pump and don't overtighten. If using silicone, I like to install with the part in light contact, let it set up a bit and then tighten.
Hey Neil, glad to hear that you are making progress. As far as the water pump goes, the thinner the gasket material, the more crucial the surface prep.. You have to take it off again to check the shaft/impeller clearance anyway. Check the mating surface that second time for even the smallest little bumps. I've found in the past that sometimes it's that little thing that you're sure is fine that turns out wasn't. And, at work, I never reuse a gasket...cheap insurance.
I like Harolds suggestion about the light contact with the sealant, let set up a bit, then tighten. I learned a new trick today!
In germany you get a car in this condition not less than 4000 dollars! Have a lot of fun with this GT, but please no modern wheels - search for ATS! I don,t know, if you´ll get them in USA, but they are really nice! Greetings from Heidelberg/Germany, Werner
I ordered some parts from OGTS and they arrived yesterday. New gasket between gas filler neck and body, new water pump gasket and some misc bolts. My advice from OGTS was that the lower bolt on the water pump can be over tightened and end up stripping the threading on the timing cover. Gil suggested I may need to invest in a rethreading device that you screw in (larger bore) and then use a bolt with a smaller bore after that.
My next attempt will be to removed the fan blade, perhaps the lower pulley (for better accesibility) and then remove the water pump. I'm going to pay special attention to the surface and this time I may bond the gasket to the water pump first and let it dry for a bit and then put the adhesive on the side between the gasket and the timing cover, install but not tighten entirely. Wait a few mins then lightly tighten starting at the bottom then the top... etc.
My other woe seems to be starting the car. It fired up the other day but died out after a few mins with my foot on the pedal. I adjusted the idle screw all the way and went to start the car again so I could adjust the idle down... but the car didn't start. It tried to turn over but was weak. I'm guessing the starter may be going dead, after nearly 40 years... That or I wasn't getting enough juice trying to jump start it without a battery.
Neil, your thread reads like Homer's Odyssey; one hurtle after another, strecthing out across time.
I felt somewhat depressed when I finally came to your last post a couple hours ago. I think I'll mix myself a drink.
Perhaps several of our NorCal events should involve work parties at your place to help on the GT. From the photos it appears to be a nice looking example.
Invest in some tools. As for the carb, get yourself an extra 13mm combination box / offset open wrench and cut it in half. That way you'll have enough clearance at all four nuts to get them off the studs. Also, to install the nut closest to the passenger-side firewall, use a small magnetic pickup tool to gently place the nut, then very gently rotate it a thread or two. Then you can get the wrench on it. Its a bitch, no doubt. And when is someone going to develop an easier way of installing/tremoving a 32/36 Weber?
Regarding your water pump bolts, don't over-torque them. Use a torque wrench. If they snap off you'll have a real pain in the ass job on you hands. Hand tighten them all, then gradually increase the torque, rotating through the bolts, until you finally have them all torqued to spec on your third pass. Then just a quick double check just so you don't overlook one.
Best of luck,
West Coast GT
Neal, sorry about all the issues with the water pump. They are known to be a little bit buggy. If I learned anything from my mechanic friends is the art of patience. One time I was trying to remove the bell housing to do my clutch and I must spent 5 hours trying to get this bolt in the top back of it, yea you guys know which one I am talking about, so I finally reached for Don my mechanic friend and after he looked at it came from under the car looked at me and said: "keep trying you're almost there". Sorry about the long story, but is true. You just have to keep at it.
Fixing your strip water pump bolt with the Heli-coil insert is probably about the only way to go, but is going to required some of that patience. So just keep at it.
1970 Opel GT
Harley Davidson motorcycle 2012 FLHTK
I have 2 RH calipers plus 2 (L&R) front wheel assemblies. The wheel assemblies include spindles, hubs, bearing, calipers and rotors. These are not mounted an cars so are spares.
Keith, Al, and Terry thanks for the words of encouragement. I would soooo be willing to have everyone over to my place and have a mechanical party. Afterwards I could barbeque some chicken and ribs and have some ice cold beers!
This weekend I decided to set some goals that were more realistic. And for the most part I got all of them done. Last weekend I got the weber installed and painted the gas tank and put it in the car. This weekend I fabricated the venting to the gas tank with fuel tank lines, new t-joints, and new hose clamps. I used 5/16 fuel hose instead of the clear tubing. Now I just need to install the last line that goes out under the body to the charcoal canister. If I use the 5/16 fuel line I'll need to drill the hole in the rear floor pan larger to accommodate the thicker fuel line.
I also installed a new metal fuel line coming out of the bottom of the tank and then attached the rubber 5/16 fuel line from there all the way down the under the floor pan to the fuel pump. All new fuel line and all new clamps. I didn't want to keep the original plastic fuel line that ran down there since I couldn't find anything that was similar but specified to hold up for fuel. Once this was all done I put some gas into the carb and jump started the car (no battery yet). The car idled well at about 2000 rpm, (until I adjust it lower) however it was very noisy.
Sunday I decided NOT to touch the water pump issue. I'm leaving it alone for the time being. Instead I took the valve cover off and did a valve adjustment. This helped with some of the clanky noise. I can only guess the rest of the noise is from the chain guard and loose chain.
My next goal is going to be saving up $$$ for those brake parts I'll need to get the front brakes done. I'm gonna need all new front discs, calipers and pads, and some rear cylinders. I have a master cylinder rebuild kit I may use. And I'll need new rubber brake hoses and the brake booster hose.
Once the brakes are done I'll be able to take the car for it's first drive!!!! and assess how the car runs and do any fine tuning from there. At that point I may choose to take the car into a mechanic I know who lives about 3 miles from my house. There I may take off the radiator, hoses, fan blade, upper pulley and belt. All so I can gain access to the water pump. My problem is accessing that last bottom bolt on the water pump. I have an automatic, so it's very difficult to remove the lower crankshaft pulley to get access to that bolt. I may have my mechanic guy do it with his power tools at his shop. Then I can deal with removing the water pump, installing a better gasket, and hopefully my leak issue will be resolved!
Sorry no pics but my computer is acting up. I'll post some soon. Oh yeah and I did go out and invest in a set of long crooked neck metric wrenches!
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