Aluminum Crankshaft Pulleys - possible group buy
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View Poll Results: Are you interested in purchasing an Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley for less than $150

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  • Yes, but just one

    4 66.67%
  • Yes, more than one

    2 33.33%
  • No, the factory pulley is awesome

    0 0%
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Thread: Aluminum Crankshaft Pulleys - possible group buy

  1. #1
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Aluminum Crankshaft Pulleys - possible group buy

    I'm starting this thread to keep things sorted out about a potential group buy of Aluminum Crankshaft Pulleys.

    I have made a design, downloadable in PDF.
    I have sent the design out to be quoted and so far the quote isn't looking good but there are suggestions for making the quote more reasonable.

    I used my #1 guy to do the first quote, and luckily, he explained why the quote was high and how I can make it go lower. Subsequent quotes were higher, through other people.

    CNC Machinists think CNC. So when you have a keyway added to the design, they think of ways to make the keyway through CNC. If you are doing a 1000 piece production run then it makes sense. For 10 pieces or so, it's silly.

    That's just a for instance.

    Now, I want to get this done for myself and for the community so I'm purchasing a broach for the keyway. It's not rocket science and I could hand it to a guy and pay him to do the keyway if I have to (because I don't own an arbor press). The thing is that the Opel crankshaft isn't a standard broach size so a broach guide has to be made. I will do that. I have everything I need in order to make it. That will shave a lot of $$ off this.

    The other thing is the bolt holes for the trigger wheel that is a companion piece for this pulley. Not everyone would want a trigger wheel but it's still part of the design.

    I'm pretty sure that I can get these perfect on my machinery but worse case, the guy that does the broaching could put the pulley on his CNC mill and drill those also. That just adds $$ but probably not much.

    Anyhow. This is where things are with this project.

    I wanted people to know I'm still working on it.
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  3. #2
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    FYI: If you make the crankshaft pulley about 30% smaller in diameter, it's possible to use the oem upper and lower alternator brackets with modern SI alternators. No more F-brackets or huge arcing upper chrome brackets. I have this set up on my car with an oversized water pump pulley. The whole idea of my set up is to make the water pump turn slower for better cooling.

  4. #3
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    FYI: If you make the crankshaft pulley about 30% smaller in diameter, it's possible to use the oem upper and lower alternator brackets with modern SI alternators. No more F-brackets or huge arcing upper chrome brackets. I have this set up on my car with an oversized water pump pulley. The whole idea of my set up is to make the water pump turn slower for better cooling.
    I just looked at my car and don't see where the 30% smaller pulley makes a difference in adjustment bracket geometry. I think you can use the stock bracket if you use an alternator clocked at 9 instead of clocked at 12. It's been discussed before.


    On a different note. I'm posting a poll to see where we are with interest in the pulleys.
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  6. #4
    Opel Key Master My location opelspyder's Avatar
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    Machinist do not seem to want to do the keyway broach. I bought a broach off eBay for the size, I want to say it was 27mm, and a "C" cutter which is a 7 or 8mm. It might be a "B". I also bought one for the alternator pulley as well, I'm pretty sure it is 17mm. I use a press, which you really shouldn't do as it's hard to feel if you are giving it too much force or not, but slow and lubricated is fine. I would like some crank pulleys, but double groove and made to my specs. I rather have steel, the problem with aluminum pulleys is the seal surface needs to be anodized or a redi-sleeve speedi-sleeve needs to be used so the pulley will not develop a groove in the seal area. The sleeves are 30-40 dollars that you have to add to the cost.
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  7. #5
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    The pulleys will be anodized.

    The keyway is 6mm. The guy I'm talking to can do the keyway.

    I wouldn't even think about making a keyway in steel. That's above my pay grade.

    Having said that, there's been a few improvements in interior keyway cutting. Most companies don't have the new method yet so they like to stick the customer with the bill for the tooling.

    I'm pretty sure that, if everyone really wanted a dual, it wouldn't be that much more expensive but I'd have to relocate the trigger wheel. Easy enough to do. And if people didn't want the trigger wheel shelf at all, it could be machined off after the pulley is made.
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  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    The pulleys will be anodized.

    The keyway is 6mm. The guy I'm talking to can do the keyway.

    I wouldn't even think about making a keyway in steel. That's above my pay grade.

    Having said that, there's been a few improvements in interior keyway cutting. Most companies don't have the new method yet so they like to stick the customer with the bill for the tooling.

    I'm pretty sure that, if everyone really wanted a dual, it wouldn't be that much more expensive but I'd have to relocate the trigger wheel. Easy enough to do. And if people didn't want the trigger wheel shelf at all, it could be machined off after the pulley is made.
    I voted for a single pulley, but if you had a dual pulley I'd buy two of those as well.
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  9. #7
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwschumm View Post
    I voted for a single pulley, but if you had a dual pulley I'd buy two of those as well.
    In a perfect world we could have enough people to do both.
    I'm willing, and I'd actually like to have a double (or two).
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  10. #8
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    OK, this is a bump and a request for clarification...

    I can probably get the 2 groove pulley for the same dollar. A double groove will work as well as a single groove if you only need a single groove.

    The price I have is a minimum of 10 pieces.

    If we can get 10 of these spoken for, I can place the order.

    I do ask that, if you say you want one, or two or whatever, that you honor that.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  11. #9
    Senior Member My location tealcarver's Avatar
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    First Opel, are there advantages to having aluminum crankshaft pulleys? I am not that much of a mechanic to know the difference between the stock and the aluminum pulleys. I guess my commitment will be based on the differences between the two types.

    Thanks, Bob
    71 Chrome Yellow GT

  12. #10
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tealcarver View Post
    First Opel, are there advantages to having aluminum crankshaft pulleys? I am not that much of a mechanic to know the difference between the stock and the aluminum pulleys. I guess my commitment will be based on the differences between the two types.

    Thanks, Bob
    Good question.

    First, if you are going the EFI route (which I will be doing X3) then you need a trigger wheel. The stock pulley isn't able to be modified for this so the aluminum pulley is an option as it will have a place for the trigger wheel.

    Another advantage is that the stock pulley (assuming you don't have the cast pulley) is weak. They often bend when tensioning the alternator belt. I have a half dozen of them and they are all bent to some degree. They are easy enough to straighten but they will bend again.

    And... the aluminum ones look cool. No, really. LOL

    If the group buy ends up as the double pulley design then you have an extra pulley to run an accessory. What accessory? That's up to you. But having an extra pulley doesn't hurt anything so why not, right?
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  13. #11
    Member My location guyopel's Avatar
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    Change mine to a single pulley and a double pulley, one each. I had voted for 2 single pulleys.
    Thanks
    John
    Guyopel
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  14. #12
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    If you have any plans to install A/C in your car then a double pulley is a near must.
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

  15. #13
    Opeler jmbinjax's Avatar
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    I voted for one, but that's if it's a double.

    Thanks!

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    can it handle the strain?

    the title says it all.
    How long will it last with a driver who really pushes the car

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    Senior Member My location anastosmotors's Avatar
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    Aluminum Pulleys

    I made some aluminum pulleys for my engines years ago. I installed steel sleeve for the front crankshaft seal. 2 smaller in diameter for racing engines and one for my red GT. I have no problem. They hold good. Pete
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  18. #16
    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    I think as a set with a upper and a lower that would work.

    At $150 though, its a little pricey for just the lower.

    Also I can get 2.4L pulleys from Europe, and working on bringing over a stash of them for the EFI guys. I learned with the 2.4L Fuel rails, distributors, and a few other bits. Less EFI guys than we think there are So may only have a handful ( Like 6-8 )

    Two problems with the 2.4L EFI pulley

    1) Sticks out too far for stock fan

    2) The back of the water pump pulley bites the reluctor ring on the back of the 2.4L pulley ( Have to have machine shop trim 3/16" off back lip )

    3) Causes you to have to use an electric fan in FRONT of the radiator

    PROS:

    1) 3 Pulley rings for A/C etc.

    2) Acts as a balancing pulley

    Told with a 75 water pump you can clear the EFI pulley and the no issues with the water pump pulley ( its a tad smaller than the stock 1.9 ). Not sure this is true with the 2.4L and maybe only true with the 2.2L Pulley. The 2.2L Pulley is not a harmonic style, and only has two grooves, and I think only has one or two index marks as opposed to the 60-2 the 2.4L has.
    CURRENT
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    In the past owned:
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  19. #17
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    I think as a set with a upper and a lower that would work.

    At $150 though, its a little pricey for just the lower.

    Also I can get 2.4L pulleys from Europe, and working on bringing over a stash of them for the EFI guys. I learned with the 2.4L Fuel rails, distributors, and a few other bits. Less EFI guys than we think there are So may only have a handful ( Like 6-8 )

    Two problems with the 2.4L EFI pulley

    1) Sticks out too far for stock fan

    2) The back of the water pump pulley bites the reluctor ring on the back of the 2.4L pulley ( Have to have machine shop trim 3/16" off back lip )

    3) Causes you to have to use an electric fan in FRONT of the radiator

    PROS:

    1) 3 Pulley rings for A/C etc.

    2) Acts as a balancing pulley

    Told with a 75 water pump you can clear the EFI pulley and the no issues with the water pump pulley ( its a tad smaller than the stock 1.9 ). Not sure this is true with the 2.4L and maybe only true with the 2.2L Pulley. The 2.2L Pulley is not a harmonic style, and only has two grooves, and I think only has one or two index marks as opposed to the 60-2 the 2.4L has.
    Yes, the price is a little high. But only a little. It's probably cheaper to have them made in China and not the United States.

    Thanks for offering up alternatives. If we can't get enough people to want one of these Aluminum Pulleys, then I can't get them done for that price.

    FWIW, I had a few quotes come back. Two places were over $7,000 for ten of them. Another place came in around $250 each for 10 of them.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  20. #18
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    Just a quick note on pricing. I have to replace the radiator in my 1952 MGTD (with a 1975 Ford 2300cc motor and automatic transmission). I don't remember how I got the one in the car done, but the local race shop here in Phoenix (Ron Davis I believe) quoted $2441 for an aluminum 13W x 16.75H x 2+ Thk core (3 row) model with the AT cooler built-in in the lower tank. Shipping from Glendale to Tempe (less than a 30 minute drive is an extra charge. A bit pricey for me. eBay has a very similar size for the 2800cc engine as used in early Mustangs for about $120! Yeah, it probably comes from China but 20X is not reasonable in MHO.

    Back to US made pulleys ...

    Doug
    guyopel likes this.

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