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Old 11-21-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Engine Not Turning Off..

well I met my deadline of having my GT ready by Thanksgiving, but it won't be on the road

Three things still need to be fixed..
One is, after I turn the key off.. and take it out, the motor still runs. This makes no sense because I never did any wiring or anything with the ignition. I tried searching.. but really didn't know what to look for.
Second is, the motor rev's REALLY high.. at like 4000 or so RPM. I tapped the gas to disengage the choke, didn't do anything. Tried adjusting the throttle.. doesn't do anything either.
Third is, a very large gas leak somewhere around the carb. Still haven't looked into this.. so I can't really go about trying to figure it out yet. All the gaskets were installed correctly with 'gasket sealer' and all bolts were torqued to spec. Grandpa rebuilt the Solex.. so I'm hoping something isn't messed up there..

Any comments on where to start, mainly on the subject in the title, are greatly appreciated!
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Old 11-22-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Fast Idle:
Look for vacuum leak at base of car, or at the manifold/head gasket.
Look at linkage for binding. Quick Temp fix is to use a sturdy rubberband or bunge cord to supplement the return spring until you can find and fix the problem.
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Old 11-22-2007   #3 (permalink)
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For the engine not shutting off problem, I'd look for the transparent coil wire having insulation worn away and contacting either a Red or Red/White wire, also with bare insulation, more than likely in the fuse panel area. Specificly, one of the wires connected to the four studs in the center of the fuse panel. A quick and dirty check would be to see if there is voltage at the coil with the key off. Another area to check is the White connector from the steering column, check for continuity between the Red wire and the Black wire with the switch in the off position.
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Old 11-22-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Motor won't shut off- I saw this problem once on a car that had its alternator hooked up wrong. The alternator was feeding back voltage to the coil.

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-22-2007 at 10:44 AM. Reason: it's - it is; its - possessive
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Old 11-22-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Exclamation Alternator hookup . . .

Originally Posted by jeff denton View Post
Motor won't shut off- I saw this problem once on a car that had it's alternator hooked up wrong. The alternator was feeding back voltage to the coil.
. . . and to that end, this is correct hookup
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Old 11-22-2007   #6 (permalink)
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I think it will have something to do with the wires that plug in, not the big battery and ground wires. Can you show him where the little wires should go?
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However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized.
One Mustang was euthanized the next morning.
Old 11-22-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Arrow "Little wires"

Originally Posted by jeff denton View Post
I think it will have something to do with the wires that plug in, not the big battery and ground wires. Can you show him where the little wires should go?
. . . ANY FSM Charging System section will show the correct wiring between alternator and regulator ("little wires") and blue/white "idiot light" wire!
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Old 11-22-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sparky73 View Post
well I met my deadline of having my GT ready by Thanksgiving, but it won't be on the road

Three things still need to be fixed..
One is, after I turn the key off.. and take it out, the motor still runs. This makes no sense because I never did any wiring or anything with the ignition. I tried searching.. but really didn't know what to look for.
Second is, the motor rev's REALLY high.. at like 4000 or so RPM. I tapped the gas to disengage the choke, didn't do anything. Tried adjusting the throttle.. doesn't do anything either.
Third is, a very large gas leak somewhere around the carb. Still haven't looked into this.. so I can't really go about trying to figure it out yet. All the gaskets were installed correctly with 'gasket sealer' and all bolts were torqued to spec. Grandpa rebuilt the Solex.. so I'm hoping something isn't messed up there..

Any comments on where to start, mainly on the subject in the title, are greatly appreciated!
Sparky don't complain...at least yours is running
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Old 11-23-2007   #9 (permalink)
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As opposed to a wiring problem, it sounds like all those carburetor problems are causing dieseling, which is not that uncommon in old engines with leaky fuel systems. Engines that diesel usually run roughly because they're only firing on a cylinder or two. You probably need at least another rebuild or a new carb.

Dieseling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Scroll down to causes.

Jim

Last edited by timemachine; 11-23-2007 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 11-23-2007   #10 (permalink)
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engine running on

Originally Posted by timemachine View Post
As opposed to a wiring problem, it sounds like all those carburetor problems are causing dieseling, which is not that uncommon in old engines with leaky fuel systems. Engines that diesel usually run roughly because they're only firing on a cylinder or two. You probably need at least another rebuild or a new carb.

Dieseling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Scroll down to causes.

Jim
You either have an electrical problem, not allowing switch to turn off the motor or you have dieseling problem which is caused by unburnt fuel. To check the electrical problem, with the switch off, run a jumper wire from the negative side of the coil to the positive side of the battery. Make sure the car is out of gear and e-brake on. jump the terminals on the starter and the engine should start, if it starts disconnect the jumper wire from the positive side of the battery and the engine should cut off. If it continues to run on after you do this, it is dieseling in which case it is a timing/fuel delivery problem. To stop it from dieseling when you cut the switch off, push the gas pedel all the way to the floor, holding the throttle open and it should stop.

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-25-2007 at 01:44 PM. Reason: negitive
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Old 11-23-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by opelnut10 View Post
You either have an electrical problem, not allowing switch to turn off the motor or you have dieseling problem which is caused by unburnt fuel. To check the electrical problem, with the switch off, run a jumper wire from the negitive side of the coil to the positive side of the battery. Make sure the car is out of gear and e-brake on. jump the terminals on the starter and the engine should start, if it starts disconnect the jumper wire from the positive side of the battery and the engine should cut off. If it continues to run on after you do this, it is dieseling in which case it is a timing/fuel delivery problem. To stop it from dieseling when you cut the switch off, push the gas pedel all the way to the floor, holding the throttle open and it should stop.

This method just recreates what the ignition switch does... If the car continues to run with the ignition switch off, disconnect the negative from the battery and see if it stops. If it doesn't, you are deiseling. I'd personally address all the fuel dumping before digging through the wiring, it's unsafe at least. As I mentioned, dieseling engines usually run unevenly. Does yours?

Jim
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Old 11-23-2007   #12 (permalink)
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I hope he meant to go from the positive side of the coil to the positive terminal of the battery.
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However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized.
One Mustang was euthanized the next morning.
Old 11-24-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Does your car have an electric fan? I just read of a similar 3-4 second engine run-on problem in the latest Street Rodder magazine.
It seems that after the key was turned off, the fan acted as a generator as it coasted to a stop, and it sent a current back to to the electronic ignition for a few seconds. Once the fan stopped, the problem went away. He solved the problem by installing a diode in the feed wire to the electric fan, so that current could only flow to the fan, not away from it.
Bob
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Old 11-24-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Simple problem + Simple test = Simple answer. See above.


Jim
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Old 11-24-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry I havn't gotten back to my thread. Been busy with the holidays.

It runs fine/even (at the high idle it's currently stuck at) and does not have an electric fan. I should be getting back out there today or tomorrow and I will check for "dieseling". Shouldn't be a problem with the Alternator since the only wires I ever disconnected were for the starter when that was removed to replace the freeze plug.

Seems weird as it ran fine and shut off fine before I started all these little fixes..

Last edited by tekenaar; 11-25-2007 at 01:42 PM. Reason: tomarrow? no 'arrow' → in tomorrow
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Old 11-24-2007   #16 (permalink)
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Any chance the wire that goes to the R terminal of the starter somehow got put on the Hot (battery) terminal?
Jim's right, you can't have fuel running all over like that. Better address that first, before we have to change your name to Fireball 07 or something...
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One Mustang was euthanized the next morning.
Old 11-26-2007   #17 (permalink)
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Be sure to check the timing

On an earlier GT of mine...ran with high rpm's and wouldn't shut off when the key was off. It backfired through the carb spewing a lot of fuel and my timing had slipped way off.
Good luck.
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