Sub fuse box

[wrench459]

The title is a little misleading. While I have a fuse link installed to protect the main wiring I believe it could be done better.
My thoughts where to install an fuse box to protect the main instead of the fuse link.
The so called sub will have a main fast blow fuse for the stock fuses.
Along with ten or more fuses for the non-stock equipment ie
electric cooling fan
fuel pump
and yes the pumping amp for the radio
headlights
power mirrors
non-stock A/C
What else did I forget?

[sawdust]

power windows
power seats

Moon Roof

[guyopel]

Dan, I am thinking of using the area under the rear wood shelf behind the drivers seat ( where the a/c blower housing would be ) .
I am working on power door locks and power windows for the GT ( Will add power locks for Manta also , later ) and have photos for the installation .
HTH
John

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by guyopel Dan, I am thinking of using the area under the rear wood shelf behind the drivers seat ( where the a/c blower housing would be ) . I am working on power door locks and power windows for the GT ( Will add power locks for Manta also , later ) and have photos for the installation . HTH John

DUH brain fart here on my end.
John The battery is already located in the rear. Why not put the main box in same location. Silly me the answer was right in front of my nose.
Now to put the thoughts on paper for the wiring.
Thinking of a rear box to control the body...radio,power mirrors,...
What kind of window regulators are you planning on using?

[markandson]

Originally Posted by wrench459 The title is a little misleading. While I have a fuse link installed to protect the main wiring I believe it could be done better. My thoughts where to install an fuse box to protect the main instead of the fuse link. The so called sub will have a main fast blow fuse for the stock fuses.

I did something similar but did not put in a new main fuse only a new panel and a new main wire to a relay off the battery that powers the new panel. When you flip the key on it powers the new relay and then the new panel gets power. If you run the existing power through your sub panel then you have to have a very large wire from the battery to the sub panel since you will be carrying both the old and new loads.

[wrench459]

Had a little time this afternoon to do some checking.

key on engine off points disconnected battery @ 12.6 volts

500 ma gauges
4.5 amps peak 3.5 cont. turn signals one side only (4ways broken)
3.5 peak 2.5 amps wipers low speed dry screen
6.0 peak 4.0 amps wipers high speed dry screen
1.5 amps low heater blower
5.5 amps high heater blower
8 amps low beam [(halogen) running 8.25 amps@14.75 volts]
9 amps high beam[(halogen) running 10 amps@14.75 volts]
3.8 amps running lights
400 ma dash lights
3.8 amps brake lights

Running current values will have to wait till another day. I forgot my fused jumper wire this weekend.
...
NOTE: When the voltage increases(engine running) so will the current.
Case in point electric cooling fan engine off 6 low peak 8 amps high peak,engine running 8 amps low 10 amps high peaks. Just measured my fan current.

[guyopel]

Dan I am going to start with a Grand AM 2002 w/motor and regulator to replace the GT w/regulator . These are cable drive W/motor assy.
I am also doing power door locks w/remotes and will make a new fuse and power block that is under the rear shelf . I have an old door from a GT that Gene gave me that I have cut the outer "skin" from and I plan to start a thread with a How - To with photos , I hope this works out .
Just to be able to see inside the door will be a great help .
John

[wrench459]

Good thing I checked the current. Things just wern't added up correctly.
Dang aftermarket voltage regulator... the running voltage is 15.30 volts@ 2000 rpm's.
I saw it on the scope this weekend and thought funny ..why is channel one saying the voltage is 15 volts.
While tring to keep it a clean family site !@$^@$%&$%& Dang Dang Dang aftermarket parts.

[yellaopelgt]

OK...since I know NOTHING about electrics.....I have a few questions now that I have installed an electric fuel pump and radiator fan!! I do have the wires secured and run up to the original fuse box in the car though. Both of these "new" add ons are of the 2 wire variety(meaning a short ground wire basically bolted close by to the chasis) so I have one wire from each component. Would my best option be A. simply put a in line fuse on each of these wires before running into the fuse box?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...e=Fuse&L1=Fuse
I'm speaking of the third in line fuse set up on this page...but the 4th, the mini fuse block looks even better to me.I'm soooo confused.....
I was also told there is a way to run the fuel pump through the ammeter light as a "shut-off" switch in case of emergency(but cant find the thread.) Or is this meant in conjunction with the oil pressure unit Otto describes in another thread? As far as the fan goes...I'm just gonna use a rocker switch mounted somewhere to control that for now.I have up-graded to a 65 amp alt. so I should be good as far as power. As stated.... I'm STUPIT when it comes to electrics, so any responses should be in "for dummies" content!!
Thanks!
Joe

[namba209]

Joe, just a couple of things here. Using Otto's method of setting up a fuel pump cutoff using the oil pressure switch is the correct way. A mini sub fuse panel is the way I would go, but I would activate it by using a 40 amp relay with the following pin connections: Pin 30 from the battery connection at the starter solenoid. Pin 85, any good ground. Pin 86 from #7 fuse where the Black wire comes in from the ignition switch. Pin 87 would go the buss bar that powers all the fuses in the mini sub panel. Pin 87A is not used. This would pretty much dictate the mini fuse panel is in the engine compartment, so as not to clutter up the fuse panel any more than it is. If you're using a temp switch to turn on the fan, another relay should be used to keep the temp switch from having to supply the power to the fan, and possibly hasten its demise. HTH.

[markandson]

When you run the wire from the solenoid/battery cable to the relay and then the wire from the relay to the fuse block you should use 10ga wire.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by markandson When you run the wire from the solenoid/battery cable to the relay and then the wire from the relay to the fuse block you should use 10ga wire.

Good point Jeff, as both those wires will be used to power all circuits in the mini fuse panel. The wire from the original fuse panel to the relay can be smaller as it only carries about 1/2 amp at the most, same with the corresponding ground wire.

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by yellaopelgt OK...since I know NOTHING about electrics.....I have a few questions now that I have installed an electric fuel pump and radiator fan!! I do have the wires secured and run up to the original fuse box in the car though. Both of these "new" add ons are of the 2 wire variety(meaning a short ....... As stated.... I'm STUPIT when it comes to electrics, so any responses should be in "for dummies" content!! Thanks! Joe

No Joe
Your not stupid at all. In fact you just earned a point on your reputation.
I applaud your forward thinking.
Off the top of my head advice would be to use the midget box to power up the fuel and fan. But take the ground side to control the load ONLY if your using a simple switch.Thinks get more complicated when a relay gets involved.
Correct me here if I'm wrong... using the amp meter light for fuel pump control.
When the engine is running (alt working) there should be 14 volts on both sides of the bulb. When the engine is off the alt supplys a ground to the bulb.
If your car sits for a long time you'll need to prime the carb so a bypass is needed.
BTW just an observation pin 85 and 86 normally pulls under 200ma.