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| Group 1 - Electrical Battery, Starting System, Ignition System, Washers and Wipers, Lighting Systems, Signal Systems, Instrument Panel, Gauges, Wiring Diagrams |
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#1 (permalink) |
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GT freak
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Unanswered: Sub fuse box
The title is a little misleading. While I have a fuse link installed to protect the main wiring I believe it could be done better.
My thoughts where to install an fuse box to protect the main instead of the fuse link. The so called sub will have a main fast blow fuse for the stock fuses. Along with ten or more fuses for the non-stock equipment ie electric cooling fan fuel pump and yes the pumping amp for the radio headlights power mirrors non-stock A/C What else did I forget? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Mid-West Opeler
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power windows
power seats Moon Roof |
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Projekt 2009 - Der OPEL GT
1971 Opel GT (Green) 10/28/06 VIN: 77 232 5469 Build date: 10/70 1972 Opel GT ..(Red) .05/11/07 VIN: 77 237 3202 Build date: 11/71 That's not rust, that's Patina. If it don't rain, I'll be there. Other Cars: 2006 Solstice (Aggressive) link my to pictures link to some short movie clips of car shows. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
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Dan, I am thinking of using the area under the rear wood shelf behind the drivers seat ( where the a/c blower housing would be ) .
I am working on power door locks and power windows for the GT ( Will add power locks for Manta also , later ) and have photos for the installation . HTH John |
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Guyopel
I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work." ---Thomas Edison It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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GT freak
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DUH brain fart here on my end. John The battery is already located in the rear. Why not put the main box in same location. Silly me the answer was right in front of my nose. ![]() Now to put the thoughts on paper for the wiring. Thinking of a rear box to control the body...radio,power mirrors,... What kind of window regulators are you planning on using? Last edited by wrench459; 07-05-2008 at 10:55 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kent Lakes, NY
Posts: 1,380
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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Jeff
'73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt,15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold. '64 VW Karmann Ghia '08 BMW M3 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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GT freak
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Had a little time this afternoon to do some checking.
key on engine off points disconnected battery @ 12.6 volts 500 ma gauges 4.5 amps peak 3.5 cont. turn signals one side only (4ways broken) 3.5 peak 2.5 amps wipers low speed dry screen 6.0 peak 4.0 amps wipers high speed dry screen 1.5 amps low heater blower 5.5 amps high heater blower 8 amps low beam [(halogen) running 8.25 amps@14.75 volts] 9 amps high beam[(halogen) running 10 amps@14.75 volts] 3.8 amps running lights 400 ma dash lights 3.8 amps brake lights Running current values will have to wait till another day. I forgot my fused jumper wire this weekend. ![]() ... NOTE: When the voltage increases(engine running) so will the current. Case in point electric cooling fan engine off 6 low peak 8 amps high peak,engine running 8 amps low 10 amps high peaks. Just measured my fan current. Last edited by wrench459; 07-06-2008 at 09:06 PM. Reason: correction to the values |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
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Dan I am going to start with a Grand AM 2002 w/motor and regulator to replace the GT w/regulator . These are cable drive W/motor assy.
I am also doing power door locks w/remotes and will make a new fuse and power block that is under the rear shelf . I have an old door from a GT that Gene gave me that I have cut the outer "skin" from and I plan to start a thread with a How - To with photos , I hope this works out . Just to be able to see inside the door will be a great help . John |
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Guyopel
I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work." ---Thomas Edison It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain |
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#8 (permalink) |
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GT freak
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Good thing I checked the current. Things just wern't added up correctly.
Dang aftermarket voltage regulator... the running voltage is 15.30 volts@ 2000 rpm's. ![]() I saw it on the scope this weekend and thought funny ..why is channel one saying the voltage is 15 volts. While tring to keep it a clean family site !@$^@$%&$%& Dang Dang Dang aftermarket parts. Last edited by wrench459; 07-07-2008 at 10:33 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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No....its not a Buick....
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OK...since I know NOTHING about electrics.....I have a few questions now that I have installed an electric fuel pump and radiator fan!! I do have the wires secured and run up to the original fuse box in the car though
. Both of these "new" add ons are of the 2 wire variety(meaning a short ground wire basically bolted close by to the chasis) so I have one wire from each component. Would my best option be A. simply put a in line fuse on each of these wires before running into the fuse box?http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...e=Fuse&L1=Fuse I'm speaking of the third in line fuse set up on this page...but the 4th, the mini fuse block looks even better to me.I'm soooo confused..... I was also told there is a way to run the fuel pump through the ammeter light as a "shut-off" switch in case of emergency(but cant find the thread.) Or is this meant in conjunction with the oil pressure unit Otto describes in another thread? As far as the fan goes...I'm just gonna use a rocker switch mounted somewhere to control that for now.I have up-graded to a 65 amp alt. so I should be good as far as power. As stated.... I'm STUPIT when it comes to electrics, so any responses should be in "for dummies" content!! ![]() Thanks! Joe Last edited by yellaopelgt; 10-15-2008 at 11:57 AM. |
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What we got here is........failure......................... to communicate....
Some men,you just cant reach...so you get what we had here last week...which is the way he wants it. Well, he gets it...I dont like it, any more than you men... |
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#10 (permalink) |
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5,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 5,921
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Joe, just a couple of things here. Using Otto's method of setting up a fuel pump cutoff using the oil pressure switch is the correct way. A mini sub fuse panel is the way I would go, but I would activate it by using a 40 amp relay with the following pin connections: Pin 30 from the battery connection at the starter solenoid. Pin 85, any good ground. Pin 86 from #7 fuse where the Black wire comes in from the ignition switch. Pin 87 would go the buss bar that powers all the fuses in the mini sub panel. Pin 87A is not used. This would pretty much dictate the mini fuse panel is in the engine compartment, so as not to clutter up the fuse panel any more than it is. If you're using a temp switch to turn on the fan, another relay should be used to keep the temp switch from having to supply the power to the fan, and possibly hasten its demise. HTH.
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Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kent Lakes, NY
Posts: 1,380
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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When you run the wire from the solenoid/battery cable to the relay and then the wire from the relay to the fuse block you should use 10ga wire.
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Jeff
'73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt,15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold. '64 VW Karmann Ghia '08 BMW M3 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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5,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 5,921
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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Good point Jeff, as both those wires will be used to power all circuits in the mini fuse panel. The wire from the original fuse panel to the relay can be smaller as it only carries about 1/2 amp at the most, same with the corresponding ground wire.
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Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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GT freak
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Your not stupid at all. In fact you just earned a point on your reputation. I applaud your forward thinking. Off the top of my head advice would be to use the midget box to power up the fuel and fan. But take the ground side to control the load ONLY if your using a simple switch.Thinks get more complicated when a relay gets involved. Correct me here if I'm wrong... using the amp meter light for fuel pump control. When the engine is running (alt working) there should be 14 volts on both sides of the bulb. When the engine is off the alt supplys a ground to the bulb. If your car sits for a long time you'll need to prime the carb so a bypass is needed. BTW just an observation pin 85 and 86 normally pulls under 200ma. |
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