Wire Source

[Redskinsjbs]

Hi all,

I would like to rewire my GT during these winter months but I have ran into a slight speed bump. Where can I purchase the proper color coded wires? I know of places where I can buy 100ft spools of each at a minimum, but I only need a couple feet in most cases.

I know of the EZ wire kit, but being somewhat of a wannabe electrical engineer, I'd like to do the wiring myself and not just plug in a new set.

So any sources where I can buy maybe 25ft spools of all of the various color coded wires required for the GT?

Thanks

[opelwasp]

I doubt it, the GT uses some pretty unique color coding. I would just use the EZwire or the kit from American Autowire.

[namba209]

Well, you could do what I did with Willit? I removed the vinyl sleeving to visually inspect each wire. Any that were suspect were replaced with the correct size, but not necessarily the same color. What I did was use a pigtail of the original wire attached to each end of the new wire with butt connectors and shrink sleeve, then used convulated tubing to rewrap the harness. For all intents and purposes, the wire is color coded at each end and appears to be one solid wire. HTH.

[oldopelguy]

That, or you could find 4 other GT owners wanting to do the same thing and you could split the costs up and go ahead and order the 100' spools.

Were it me, though, I'd want to order the wire like in the kits for all my cars. They have the light function printed down the length of the wire, so no matter where you run across the wire you know what it's for and if it should have power or not.

[BQS4]

Has anyone tried looking into PG Elektronik They make proper wiring kits that are "plug-n-play" with correct wires and connectors. In other words, pull your old harness old, throw away and run the new in behind it.
Just a thought as a complete and correct GT harness is about 350 euros...

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Hi all, I would like to rewire my GT during these winter months but I have ran into a slight speed bump. Where can I purchase the proper color coded wires? I know of places where I can buy 100ft spools of each at a minimum, but I only need a couple feet in most cases. I know of the EZ wire kit, but being somewhat of a wannabe electrical engineer, I'd like to do the wiring myself and not just plug in a new set. So any sources where I can buy maybe 25ft spools of all of the various color coded wires required for the GT? Thanks

[opelwasp]

Gee...that's only $465 plus shipping. Too much to replace an over designed electrical system. American Autowire is $320 for a complete modern kit.

[Redskinsjbs]

I think that I can get an equal variety (not the same exact color scheme) of wires from advance auto in 25ft rolls totalling about 175$ ---> That gives 10 different spools of 25ft of wire at 14 Gauge. I priced it at 14 gauge because much of the 16 and 18 gauge wire is the same or slightly cheaper, so I figured I should try to overestimate. SO then If I add in the price of the spade connectors and the electrical tape, I could do the whole rewire for about $200.

The reason I don't want to use the EZ wire Kit is that I want to move the fuse box out under the hood. I like this arrangement more and I think that it is a better placement. I also will be adding 3 more circuits to the box for a beefier stereo (nothing fancy, just non-stock) and splitting up the more vulnerable ciruits. For me, in a perfect world every circuit would be fused individually, but nothing is perfect.

[First opel 1981]

I did a quick check there and there were a couple sellers who were offering 20 rolls of 4 colors. In their as they said "Ask about other coor combinations".

It might be worth a shot.

[opelspyder]

I have only found color coded wire special ordered. I bought all wire stripped for the front headlight harness in 1000' rolls, as that was the minumum they would stripe. I will soon order other color codes soon. I haven't seen other wiring prestriped in too many places. Also everyone talks about EZ Wireing harness, I have used one, and painless-very similar, but I like a company called American autowire. They have the wiring separate, and the fuse box has labeled terminals that allow you to run that group of wires where ever and what length. It is the best I have seen for usability. Painless and EZWire are limited, sometimes you have to splice things. But in our GTs, There are different relays and equipment, that make it hard to use these harnesses, without some serious engineering degree to figure out.
Keith

[markandson]

I am going to have to dig up the phone number of a guy here in the states that builds GT wiring harnesses complete. I know I have it I just don't know where. I got my complete harness from OGTS which came from Germany because all the instructions were in German, which made the install interesting. I don't know if they still have them available. All of the color coding was perfect.

[Redskinsjbs]

The maths behind wiring aren't all that difficult in the GTs. I just recently finished an FDM machine, the reprap from reprap.org, so I understand wiring stuff pretty well.

I like the idea of making the ends of the wires the same as the old ones, but I know that adds some resistance and if I am beefing up the wires, then I can't really use the old ones.

So here is a preliminary decision. I will get 6 colors and label the wires down their length with a label maker, say every foot or so.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs I like the idea of making the ends of the wires the same as the old ones, but I know that adds some resistance and if I am beefing up the wires, then I can't really use the old ones.

Not necessarily so. If you use butt connectors, soldered correctly, there is no added resistance. Don't forget to use shrink sleeve over them.

[Redskinsjbs]

[QUOTE=namba209;180993]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Not necessarily so. If you use butt connectors, soldered correctly, there is no added resistance. Don't forget to use shrink sleeve over them.

I am beefing up all of the wires that may need it in preparation for a larger alternator some time down the road. So I figured that I would get rid of all of the old insulation while I was at it.

Concerning the complexity of this job, there really isn't any. The name of the game is to go equal or higher in gauge. I am working on a GT wiring Diagram that I'll print out maybe 4x4 ft and laminate; it should be great for debugging. I'll just have to alter the color codes on my diagram to fit.

[Sparky73]

[QUOTE=Redskinsjbs;180996]

Originally Posted by namba209 I am working on a GT wiring Diagram that I'll print out maybe 4x4 ft and laminate; it should be great for debugging. I'll just have to alter the color codes on my diagram to fit.

DESTEC Schematic

[namba209]

I'm running a 100+ amp alternator on Willit? with no adverse affects on the original wiring that I have left, which includes the battery, ammeter and alternator wires. I found it interesting that the engine wiring harness on the V-6 is smaller than the original wires on the GT. It appears the Opel folks did some overkill when the designed the wiring harness.

[Redskinsjbs]

[QUOTE=Sparky73;181004]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs DESTEC Schematic

I understand, but it is just too small. I need to be able to stand back from the wall

[BQS4]

[QUOTE=Redskinsjbs;181007]

Originally Posted by Sparky73 I understand, but it is just too small. I need to be able to stand back from the wall

The DESTEC wiring diagram could almost be read by Ray Charles Seriously though, you can't get much better than JJ's diagraham, unless you took a FSM one to a photo shop and had it enlarged....

[Redskinsjbs]

[QUOTE=BQS4;181013]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs The DESTEC wiring diagram could almost be read by Ray Charles Seriously though, you can't get much better than JJ's diagraham, unless you took a FSM one to a photo shop and had it enlarged....

That is baisically what I am doing. I just want something to do in my engineering class.

[markandson]

Everyone always seems to forget about the pdf I created from the 1973 FSM which is the whole shebang so here is the link.

[Redskinsjbs]

Has anyone ever used these guys? Automotive wire, Automotive electrical supplies, connectors, relays, switches.
They offer a lot more colors, and rolls in increments of 20ft (Much better if I only need 5 feet or so)

[zero]

(Meaning Spring, 1980) There was a second "high-output" alternator available as a replacement for the original, for '72s. On an otherwise all-original could not seem to get any ignition. Thought it was the switch, and dis-assembled the column. No luck. Finally traced the problem to a non-conductive alternator bolt, and wired some three-twisted 12-gauge from engine to body, and got back on the road. Thanks for the diagrams--I'll need them.
BTW, that's the only time my '72 needed any service, carb and all!

[zero]

That non-conductive bolt, which completes the circuit for charging the alternator brings to mind another, older issue. Has anyone heard of "crystalline block"? I have a '37 Ford, which since we got it in '65 has pfffft as soon as it gets warm. Still only 29500 original miles from the real old lady driver, who never drove on any highway. Literally only on streets in her small town. Never got broke-in properly; I've heard that iron blocks don't get properly crystallized--and conductive-- unless they're heated/cooled hot/cold enough times, to make them conduct, thus making the spark return path conductive enough. My years as materials scientist/physicist have failed me; maybe someone here could direct me to more info!
Thanks
0

[tomking]

Never heard of it and seriously doubt it. I am no physicist though.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by zero That non-conductive bolt, which completes the circuit for charging the alternator brings to mind another, older issue. Has anyone heard of "crystalline block"? I have a '37 Ford, which since we got it in '65 has pfffft as soon as it gets warm. Still only 29500 original miles from the real old lady driver, who never drove on any highway. Literally only on streets in her small town. Never got broke-in properly; I've heard that iron blocks don't get properly crystallized--and conductive-- unless they're heated/cooled hot/cold enough times, to make them conduct, thus making the spark return path conductive enough. My years as materials scientist/physicist have failed me; maybe someone here could direct me to more info! Thanks 0

Can't say I've heard of this in terms of conductivity....BUT, it's a well know fact that a 'seasoned' block (one that has undergone numerous hot/cold stressed cycles) is more thermally stable, and will have taken a 'set'. Any engine builder knows this and would prefer to rebuild a 100,000 mile engine over a 1000 mile engine any day. New stuff 'moves around' and can dimensionally change. Not good when trying to stick to close tolerances!

So maybe that is where this theory materialized from?

[tedb103689]

Welcome to Waytek Wire that should work