Gordo Wires the GTX - Aaaggghhh!
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Thread: Gordo Wires the GTX - Aaaggghhh!

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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Gordo Wires the GTX - Aaaggghhh!

    This is my thread about wiring my GTX car. I can't think of too many topics more boring to start a thread about than this. Also, there will be very little info of benefit to owners of typical Opels because this car has almost none of the original parts, systems, and wiring. These changes to the original car include:

    1) Replacement of the original fuse box and wiring with a Painless Performance general purpose custom car fuse box and wiring system.
    2) Replacement of all the original analog gauges with an all-in-one Dakota Digital instrument cluster.
    3) Replacement of all the oem switches in the instrument panel.
    4) Replacement of the oem heater/defroster with a Vintage Air aftermarket unit and controls
    5) Replacement of all of the front lighting, including a pair of HID mini 2.5" headlights originally made for motorcycles and numerous custom LED-based park/marker, turn, driving/fog, and decorative lighting. The flip-over headlight mechanism assemblies and enclosures have been modified away in favor of headlights inside 3.5" pipes.
    6) Functionless Ferrari Dino-style side scoops were modded into the car and I have fitted them with combination LED marker and turn lighting.
    7) The 4 round tail lights are oem, but with 47LED bulbs. Side rear markers are from 2000-era Toyotas and are LED. Presently, I have not yet added reverse and license plate lighting.
    8) The engine is a used stock 2.4 Opel engine fed by a single side draft. It's electrical peripherals are an electric fuel pump and radiator fan, a Crane optical trigger, and an MSD ignition controller.
    9) The car has an entirely custom dash, touch screen stereo, multiple speakers, and electric windows(which I may remove).
    10) The fuse box will be mounted behind the driver's seat under the luggage shelf and the controller for the instrument cluster will also probably go there. Except for the switches, stereo, and heater unit, there will be hardly any wires behind or under the dash.

    Okay, that's my opening salvo and I'll have some pics and wiring schematics and diagrams for you later.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-17-2015 at 12:44 PM.
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    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Good luck. Take pictures, label what wires you can, take a lot of notes. All will help should you have problems down the line.

    I am getting close to attacking the wiring in my 24v Ascona so I feel your pain!
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
    www.alt-opel.us
    @opelgary


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    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Oh Oh

    I will adopted your both into my evening prayers
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    Detroit,where my home was My location 2 Fast 4 U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    Oh Oh

    I will adopted your both into my evening prayers
    I hope that it will help
    Opel Ascona;
    Only built from 1970 - 1975




    Understeer: The front of the car hits the wall,
    Oversteer: The rear of the car hits the wall,
    Horsepower: How fast the car hits the wall,
    Torque: How far the car pushes the wall.

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    Senior Contributor markandson's Avatar
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    Gordo,
    I have my MegaSquirt under the rear deck along with a Sirius radio receiver and the PLX Oxygen Sensor Controller. The issue you are going to have is the size of the bundle of wires that will be running along the tunnel. The wire bundle I had will be nothing compared to yours (yes I know...keep the comments to yourself!) so you may want to split it up both sides of the tunnel. Absolutely keep track of what you do and draw a schematic as you go. It takes me a while staring at what I did under my dash to remember what the heck all the wires are for. I have a schematic but I did not label the wires. I have since purchased a wire marking device that uses plastic tape that works like a dymo label maker, I got it at Home Depot in the electrical section. You might want to go get one, it does a great job.
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI MegaSqrt, Ali Flywhl w/S10 Clutch, Elec Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,F&R Sway Bars,2" Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3:90 Gears & Gripper LSD,Rear Disks,Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors - Kandy Pagan Gold.
    123 WHP @ 6800 RPM

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    '64 VW Ghia '09 S35 BMW Z4
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Okay, I’m home from work now and I have more time and freedom of thought to elaborate on my wiring project. Some of what I’m writing below is me talking to myself and trying to put into words and descriptions/mantras that I can understand.

    I’d like this project to try to be helpful to many of you, even though almost none of the components are in your cars. So we’re talking electrical theory basics and how to approach a complex job. I do a lot of instructing of new mechanics at work and this instruction is constantly ongoing, even to guys who have worked there for decades, and my own understanding of the systems and principles is constantly evolving.

    Let me start off by saying that I’m not a car guy motorhead. What I am is a home hobbiest and a project junkie, I just happen to be involved with playing with cars the past 8 years or so. I have no long history of troubleshooting and working on cars. I have never understood the electrical generation system in a car and I will probably never fully understand it. All I do know is that if all the parts work and you hook them all up correctly, they work.

    Fundamentally, that’s all you need to know with most electrical devices and machines.

    DC(direct current) is easy if you think about it like water in your house’s plumbing system. Each molecule of water travels from point A(+) to point B(-). The water in your house starts out in the river, goes through the treatment plant, the street pipes, then your house, then comes out your garden hose and goes back to the river eventually. AC is completely screwed up and makes no sense at all. Each electron only takes one step forward and one step back. Magic happens that enables you to make something useful out of all that back and forth nonsense. We don’t have to worry about AC in a car. Magic happens inside your AC generating alternator that makes DC come out of it. That’s all you need to know about AC in a car.

    A guy at work simplified my thinking this past week about the mysteries of a car fuse box and wiring system: Every wire in a car is a live(+) wire or has the potential to be a live wire via a switch. Yeah, there’s a few “ground” wires in a car, but they are all actually carrying positive(+) power back to the battery’s negative terminal. For simplicity’s sake, let’s say that the only thing attached to your battery’s negative terminal is the wire that you attach to the chassis. This makes your entire car the negative terminal of your battery. All the water(+) coming out of the river(battery + terminal) is desperately trying to get back to the river(battery – terminal or your car’s chassis).

    Car fuse boxes are confusing because some of the wires have + power in them and some don’t. Sometimes these empty wires mysteriously get + power put into them by some mystery device somewhere. Sometimes this is supposed to happen and sometimes not. Hook it all up correctly and open all the faucets and water(+) comes out of all your plumbing. Do it wrong or have a busted pipe somewhere and water shoots out your chimney.

    This was all really hard for me to wrap my mind around when applied to every device in a car. The part that screws it all up for me is the “power generating system” ie. The alternator and the light bulb in your dash that makes it work. No bulb, no power generation.

    What the f………..?

    All my electrical training and experience comes from working on ½ block long mail processing machines with dozens of computers and hundreds of circuits boards, harnesses, motors, servos, and mystery boxes that control speeds, starting and stopping, etc. I get sent to Okla-freakin’-homa for 3 weeks at a time to spend two weeks, 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, just going through hundreds of giant pages of electrical schematics following power from the circuit breakers to the very last light bulb that gets lit. The power is always the same: AC turned into various voltages of DC that get sent to various devices. The power has one source and generally doesn’t drop or diminish throughout the whole system, if everything is hooked up correctly and working properly. Hook it up right and sorted mail comes out the ass-end of the machine, hook it up wrong and the machine poops out confetti.

    I can’t think of any machine I have ever worked on where the power NORMALLY fluctuates a great deal, like it does on an old car. And has an AC generator stuck in the middle of it that sometimes provides DC power and sometimes doesn’t and does it at all sorts of fluctuating Amperages and Voltages. I don’t even want to think about what the heck is going on in an electric car or a home solar panel set up that generates DC and then pumps some of that into batteries, some as AC in your house, and some fed back into the mega voltages of the electrical system of your town. Ouch! I just thought about it and now my brain hurts.

    So, I’m not going to think about it. I’m going to hook all that alternator stuff up and hope it works. If it doesn’t, I’ll ask you guys for help. I’ll be doing engine compartment stuff last.

    It’s my practice to do the hardest part of a project first, so that I have the maximum amount of time to conquer it. Then the second hardest, etc., so that the project gets easier and easier as you approach completion. I’ll break my rule with the alternator thing. There won’t be an engine in the car until the very end, so there won’t be a way to test the alternator system until then. I’ll just try to copy how I had everything in the Red Baron and figure out how to morph it all together with the new electrical system and gauge cluster(which presumably has that pesky light bulb that makes it all work).

    So, we begin with the second hardest: The headlights. You’ve seen me struggle with finding a headlight concept that would fit into the squashed 3.5” pipes the PO put in the car. I would have preferred old school simple headlights, but the small size and extremely difficult mounting and aiming limitations of the PO’s mod left me with only one reasonable choice in the whole world that was only created recently: Recently invented 2.5” HID motorcycle headlights. I had to conjure up my own adjustable mounting brackets for them, that I could work with at a low tech level with no further mods to the car, and that I could work with and access after the car is fully assembled. They came with all sorts of mystery wiring, mystery boxes, mystery controllers, and no instructions or explanations as to what the heck is going on inside any of them. I was simply provided with photographs of how you’re supposed to hook them all up. I hooked them all up and the lights came on.

    That’s all I need to know.

    Here’s some pics:







    More pictures here:

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/members...nightmare.html
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-17-2015 at 05:03 PM.

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    Senior Contributor markandson's Avatar
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    You are making this sound difficult and it is not. Just like your block long postal machine there are many many sub assemblies that make up the cars electrical system. Each one is no more difficult than hooking up a bulb. Some will be switched by relays, others directly by switches. The fuse block merely gives you finite number of circuits you can put in the car so you have to make sure you divide up the power requirements properly so that you don't overload one fuse or the wires that are connected to that fuse. Draw yourself a schematic FIRST. Draw each sub-assembly on separate pieces of paper and then bring them together after you have each one sketched. I suggest that you do not wrap the wires until you are sure you have everything you want. I wrapped and unwrapped my harness more times then I care to remember because I kept finding out that I needed one more wire for something I forgot. Even in the end I still have one wire running that is taped to the big bundle because I refused to unwrap the whole thing again. Run a few spares up to the engine compartment too. You never know what will change or what you will want to add later.
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    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI MegaSqrt, Ali Flywhl w/S10 Clutch, Elec Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,F&R Sway Bars,2" Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3:90 Gears & Gripper LSD,Rear Disks,Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors - Kandy Pagan Gold.
    123 WHP @ 6800 RPM

    www.markandson.net

    www.gpny.com

    '64 VW Ghia '09 S35 BMW Z4
    '15 BMW M4 '11 BMW 335 '04 Ford F150 SVT Lightning

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    3000 Post Club blancojp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markandson View Post
    You are making this sound difficult and it is not.... Each one is no more difficult than hooking up a bulb. Some will be switched by relays, others directly by switches.....
    The way this is going, better change the name of this thread to " Gordo fryed the GTX"
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I'm reducing complexity by breaking the overall job into small mini-projects. Headlight system first, then turn signals, then marker and decorative lighting.

    The fuse box came pre-wired and each wire is printed along it's entire length as to where to attach it to. My plan is to follow the basic wiring scematics for each sub-system. I'm not using all-in-one switches, almost everything has it's own dedicated switch.

    In regards to the headlights, one wire goes to the main off-on switch and all the rest go to ground. The main power wire currently has 3 fuses in it: An inline one, one in the switch, and another in the fuse box. What I'm not sure about how to blend the hi-lo switch in the stock GT turn signal lever to the headlight harness's 3 way plug which handles switching the hi-lo beams. The hi-lo function in the headlights doesn't actually switch circuits from one filament to another. The same bulb/circuit is on in both hi-lo situations. What you are actually switching is a little metal flap inside the headlight. On low beam it's down, blocking about 1/4 of the light at the top of the headlight. In high beam mode it's retracted up, allowing all the light to come out. It's a low power scenario.

    How does that hi-lo switch in a GT turn signal lever work? Does it switch a relay?

    Could I find my answers just by looking and logicing out the schematics? Sure. But it's more inclusive and fun if I ask you guys!

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    Resident Whippersnapper ubernoob51's Avatar
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    Yes, there's a relay for the hi/lo beams in a GT. All the switch in the column does is ground the green wire that goes to the relay, the dimmer relay then switches the voltage from the headlight relay either to low beams, or high beams.

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    ...

    How does that hi-lo switch in a GT turn signal lever work? Does it switch a relay?

    Could I find my answers just by looking and logicing out the schematics? Sure. But it's more inclusive and fun if I ask you guys!
    You funny guy
    Both the headlamps and turn sigs flip-flops the circuit.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 04-20-2015 at 08:29 AM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    I'll follow this thread, just because.

    When I wire PoZest, I will be starting from scratch, like you, but will be running an Arduino controller powering either solid state relays or my own version of an Arduino amplifier. I built the code for it a year and a half ago. I've slowly been working on the amplifier(s) when I'm not working on other projects.

    So, yeah, I'll follow it. Maybe I'll get a few ideas.


    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I completed the headlight control and “igniting” wiring today. It took 5 hours to do a reasonably neat, secure, safe, and accessible job of it. Then an hour or so to draw up the electrical schematic using the Paint program. I also installed my RallyBob battery tray.

    I should be able to move on to mounting/wiring the horns, extending the wiring from the grill lights to where I can access them, then installing the grill. Accomplishing those tasks will pretty much complete my electrical work in the nose of the car and I can install the yellow grill and bumper and be done with working inside that hell hole.







    Man, it sure does look simple on paper. The lights came with no wiring instructions or schematics, just a few pics that I had to beg for, showing how to hook them up.


    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-19-2015 at 08:34 AM.
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    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Or Fritzing Fritzing
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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    Resident Whippersnapper ubernoob51's Avatar
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    O great and powerful Gord, I beseech you: expound upon your headlight wiring.

    Does the white wire for your low beams have voltage the whole time the headlights are on? Or does only one wire (white or blue) have voltage at a time?

  19. #17
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    And the Gord proclaimed unto the children of Adam(Opel) "Yea, though I knoweth not the wiring schematic and, yea, though I haveth not the slightest freakin' clue what goeth on inside the Boxes of Satan, I shall striveth to illuminate the masses".

    "Howeth shall we illuminate the night?" the fruit of Adam's loins beseached.

    The Almighty(the Chinese) gazed upon the clueless masses and with his mighty finger pressed the button on the Holy Camera 5 times. "Taketh ye now the Holy Connection Instructions and giveth them unto the people of Adam". The people rejoiced!

    Yet, the people were not satisfied. "Whereth reside the Holy Voltage?" they cried. And the Gord snickered "That is for me to know and you to find out". The outraged masses hollered "But we payeth the tithe to purchase the Holy Beacons, caneth thou not reveal the secrets of the rat's nest of wiring?". "Nay" sayeth the Gord "Thou shalt wander for 40 years through the Desert of Ignorance before the secret is revealed."

    The people were bummed out and pissed off, yet they hooketh up the wiring according to the Holy Photos and there was LIGHT! And the Gord looked upon the light and said it was good.......enough.

    "But we don't understand what we just did!" cryeth the masses.

    And the Gord said "Some secrets are not for ye to know."

    "Aaarrrggghhh!" said the people.

    And, so, the Gord smited them.



    To answer your question 'Noob, all I know is that brown is ground and that applying power to either the white or the blue wire makes the lights come on. I assume that there is no power present at the 3-way plug before I apply power to it. As near as I can tell, energizing either the white or the blue makes the lights come on and, additionally, when the blue gets power it also energizes a solenoid in each headlight that retracts the little metal plate at the top of each headlight. They are now in high beam mode. The metal plate is spring loaded, so in the de-energized state it is in the down, low beam, position.

    (Note: I have augmented the previous schematic to label the wires that control the hi-lo switching and I have added a description of how the Angel and Devil Eye flourescent lighting can be wired. How I choose to wire the "eyes" has yet to be decided.)

    It's a fussy system. Because I did my tests by clipping things together with alligator clips, connections weren't rock solid. The slightest break or weak connection in the electrical chain would cause the lights to go out or just one to go out. Even after resecuring the loose connection, the light or lights that dropped out would not come on. I would have to break main power connection entirely, reconnect, and let it go through it's high amperage warm up cycle all over again.

    When first turned on the lights, they came on at about 1/4 brightness and with mostly red spectrum light. Power drain spiked to 20+ amps during this time and slowly diminished over the next minute as the lights got brighter and whiter. Jiggle a wire and the right side or farthest from the controller one would go out. It would only come on again if I restarted the power cycle.

    These are the instruction pics I was given:


    2.5 inch HID headlight wiring (1).jpg 2.5 inch HID headlight wiring (2).jpg 2.5 inch HID headlight wiring (3).jpg 2.5 inch HID headlight wiring (4).jpg 2.5 inch HID headlight wiring (5).jpg
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-19-2015 at 08:41 AM.
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    Okay guys, I could use a little help with the next phase. Actually, I could use a lot of help.

    My goal is to break down each lighting function into discreet, isolated, wiring paths that aren't dependent on power sources or conditions from other light function wiring paths.

    At least, I'd like to do that as much as is reasonably possible.

    This means that I'm going off-script when it comes to how cars are usually wired.

    Headlight and parking lights ~ I'm currently hoping that I can have the headlights on WITHOUT the parking lights via a switch. And turn the parking lights on at my choosing via a switch. Have dimmer power be always on with a full intensity signal to the Dakota cluster either with the parking light switch or just all the time. And be able to switch High and Low beams via the turn signal lever switch. ANNNND try to get that scenario to happen using as much of the fuse box's wiring and headlight relay system as possible. Or bypass the headlight relay entirely.

    Turn signals and hazard lights ~ I have given this no thought at all. I need to have turn signals and flashers. Turn signal switching obviously via the turn signal lever and I have to assign an existing switch or install an additional one for hazard lights. Are turn signals/hazards a discreet circuit? Is the flip-flop entirely handled within the turn signal relay? Do I just hook all 4 corners of the turn signal lights to the turn signal relay and apply power to either of the turn functions or the hazard function and it will do the flip-flop? I don't know, I haven't bothered to analyze the circuit yet. The Painless Performance diagrams don't break down the circuits into pure theory and logic, they instead show various scenarios on how to wire to GM, Chrysler, and Ford cars. WHAT? No Opel scenarios? What about Gordo scenarios? The butt-smackers at Performance also don't provide a wiring schematic for the freakin' fuse box! I have no idea how it's wired up and it's arranged in a non-linear fashion. All I have is a bunch of well-labeled wires and the basic instruction to hook them up the whatever the wire says.

    Who wants to draw me up a basic theoretical diagram on, say, hooking up turn signal and flasher function to a 12V source on a table top?


    I’ll be putting these horns in the car today. I won them used at a Carlisle raffle. I have been assured that they will bark like a normal dog, not the Meep!-Meep! roadrunner sound of an oem GT. Previous attempts at installing alternate horns failed apparently due to the oem GT’s wiring not being able to handle the power requirements of modern horns




    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 04-19-2015 at 10:01 AM.

  21. #19
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Gordon, I've got a set of those Hella twin-tones on my motorcycle. Nice horns.

    Do yourself a favor and install them with a relay. Use the OEM wires to trigger the relay. Run 12 ga wire to power the relay and to the horns themselves. They pull a few more amps than stock.
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  22. #20
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips Bob!

    Alas, I have decided to install some horns I had bought a while back. I tested my horns' tones and decided that the Hellas still sounded too much like Roadrunner. Meep! Meep! The other horns shown below have a more modern car tone. After 35 years of Meep! Meep!, I'm ready for a change. Their sound outlets didn't face forward when mounted in the oem location, so I mounted them to the now unused holes that used to hold the middle bumper support. The Lenk grill necessitated the removal of that support bar and my yellow painted fiberglass bumper doesn't need the support either. I'd prefer them to be mounted farther back, but I didn't want to drill new holes.

    I also got all the wires to the horns and grill lights labeled and extended 6'-8'. I could have spent another hour or two putting the grill in, routing the wires, attaching the bumper, and buttoning everything up, but a chilly weather and rain front started moving in. Tomorrow is another day.........

    Horns 003.jpg Horns 004.JPG grill wires 001.JPG

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