sound-deadening removal help

[gtkid2]

So it's a guess that the "padding" on the floor is sound-deadening... is there an easy way to remove it? any tips appreciated!

[Redskinsjbs]

Well, It wasn't easy, but it was effective. I used a combination of mineral spirits and a non-marring chisel (the plastic type) to scrape up all of the rotted asphalt.

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by gtkid2 So it's a guess that the "padding" on the floor is sound-deadening... is there an easy way to remove it? any tips appreciated!

Invest in a heat gun from your local hardware store and a putty knife, and plenty of patience and elbow grease.

[Redskinsjbs]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Invest in a heat gun from your local hardware store and a putty knife, and plenty of patience and elbow grease.

I found that heating the stuff up only made the removal more difficult. It would get all gooey and non-cooperative. The mineral spirits kind of just dissolved the bond and the stuff came up in big chunks, rather than messy goo-balls...But of course, I also did this in the middle of winter in an un-heated garage, so I guess the suggestion may be to FREEZE the stuff off.

[Aardvaark]

Much like Mr. Sweezy, when I cleaned up the old hardened Ziebart asphalt undercoating in the engine compartment of my Manta, I soaked rags in mineral spirits and covered
the areas I was working on and let it soak in for 20-30 mins and then
scraped the old and now softened asphalt off with scrappers make of
wood and some made of plastic. Worked pretty well.

I also tryed using a hair dryer (I no longer have use for ) but that just make the stuff far too sticky.

I like mineral spirits because it isn't nearly as dangerous or harsh on
your skin if any gets on you and it isn't nearly as bad to breath as many other chemical removers.

Actually, placing ice cubes in a plastic bag and chilling the areas made the
undercoating brittle enough to chip off in thicker areas but was taking too long. Might work with the sound padding too.

[lezliewk]

I just left mine on. Oh course it still looked like the day it was put on I was lucky

[Rubenvdb]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Invest in a heat gun from your local hardware store and a putty knife, and plenty of patience and elbow grease.

I used a heat gun and a screwdriver. Heating it up and hitting the screwdriver with a rubber hammer worked fine for me.

The small bits that I couldn't remove with the screwdriver, I dissolved with white spirit.

[gtkid2]

sweet thanks. guess I better go get to work!

[MonkeyNutZ]

I used a metal scraper and lots of hard work. The angle of attack (scraping) makes a big difference. I wasn't worried about scratching the paint as I was already planning on painting the floor before laying down my Damplifier (AMAZING stuff btw.)

I used some prep all (basically mineral spirits) gloves and a ton of rags to clean up the residue.

A lot of people recommend using dry ice to freeze the sound dampening to ease the process.

[gtkid2]

well, it's taking about forever but it's coming off... just finished the driver seat floor... workworkwork

[blancojp]

Originally Posted by gtkid2 well, it's taking about forever but it's coming off... just finished the driver seat floor... workworkwork

Once you take the tar off, you will need to clean the area and seal it with a rust inhibitor prior to installing the carpet. You can get a can of bedliner or rubber undercoating and cover the area to protect it. If you don't protect it, it will start to rust through and you can see it in less than a year.

[gtkid2]

well I'm building it into an auto-x car, so it can look like crap... oh, whole passenger side done

[gtkid2]

got it all done! the scraper/hammer method works best... and a little heat in the edges/grooves. what do you think the weight savings is with the material out of it?

[Gordy]

Sounds like YOU probably lost 10 pounds with all that hard work....don't know if the car weighs any less now, but it all counts in the total combined weight (car and driver) though, right?

[gtkid2]

right so maybe I should lay off the oreos...