Ascona Suspension bolt

[azopelnut]

I am in the process of repairing the rusty frame rails on my 73 Ascona (it spent its formitive years in the rust belt)and realize that it is necessary to remove the front suspension to fix all the rusted areas.
Everything came loose quite easily except for the large passenger side suspension bolt(the one that goes through the big rubber bushing and bolts to the frame rail)
1) breaker bar to break the bolt loose
2) ample PB rust buster
3) 5 pound hammer on the threaded end of the bolt(I will have to replace as the frame rail repair will be slightly wider than stock)
The bolt turns freely but the metal sleeve inside the bushing turns with it.

ANY IDEAS???
I am trying to do the repairs and drop a 2.2 getrag in this car so i can attend the OMC picnic

[BQS4]

try knocking the bolt back and forth through the metal casing it is in, along with the PB Blaster. If not, if you have access to a torch, heat the bolt up and use the candle trick.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by azopelnut I am in the process of repairing the rusty frame rails on my 73 Ascona (it spent its formitive years in the rust belt)and realize that it is necessary to remove the front suspension to fix all the rusted areas. Everything came loose quite easily except for the large passenger side suspension bolt(the one that goes through the big rubber bushing and bolts to the frame rail) 1) breaker bar to break the bolt loose 2) ample PB rust buster 3) 5 pound hammer on the threaded end of the bolt(I will have to replace as the frame rail repair will be slightly wider than stock) The bolt turns freely but the metal sleeve inside the bushing turns with it. ANY IDEAS??? I am trying to do the repairs and drop a 2.2 getrag in this car so i can attend the OMC picnic

If you're replacing the bolt anyway, then get an air hammer with a straight 'driver', and it should come right out. Nothing like 4000 b.p.m. to move a rusted bolt! If you hammer it with a 5-lb sledge you will probably peen the end over and then it's stuck for good!

BTW, the factory bolts are 14 mm (.551") diameter, but I've used grade 8 hardware store bolts that are 9/16" (.562") in diameter. You'll want to pass a drill through the hole in the framerail anyway to remove rust and crud, but the 9/16" bolts work like a charm and are cheaper than metric to boot.

The bushing is basically junk if the sleeve is spinning inside it, not much option there for replacement, but I've used urethane Chevy pickup leaf spring bushings (something like 8 to a pack from Energy suspension). The OD of the bushing is correct and the new sleeve is the right ID. You just need to shorten the new bushing halves and inner sleeve a bit IIRC, but it's been a few years since I did this trick so I could be wrong.

Bob

[Bill Hoffmann]

A cheap way using a commonly available tool is to buy an abrasive wheel for your circular saw, and just cut the head of the bolt. Then you can drive the remaining shank through the frame rail with the bushing and arm still on it. If you do it this way first and don't spin the bolt, you won't have damaged the bushing, and you have a reasonable chance to press or drive the bolt out of the sleeve when the assembly is off the car. Otherwise, I like Bob's bushing replacement strategy!

I don't know if I sent you this before, but here is the frame rail I made for my Manta.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann I don't know if I sent you this before, but here is the frame rail I made for my Manta.

Looks good Bill! Did you make it from flat sheet, and just bent/welded it together?

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Did you make it from flat sheet, and just bent/welded it together?

Thanks, and yes. I made cardboard patterns and laid it out on 16 gauge mild steel. I made it in three pieces (two sides and bottom) because it begins to curve inward slightly towards the front, and the bottom piece takes that into account. The bending of the floor and bottom flanges was done on a bench vise with some hardwood lumber and clamps as a brake of sorts. When I was satisfied with the fit I assembled it with wood blocks and clamps and took it to a local welding shop, which cost around $20.00.

[BQS4]

And your new bride lets you keep it on the dining room table!?!?!?!?!?!?

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by BQS4 And your new bride lets you keep it on the dining room table!?!?!?!?!?!?

That was my mom's table and the parents were on vacation at the time. This all happened pre-marriage. Go figure.

[opelbits]

Paul-

If it helps to gain access, you can unbolt the arm from the subframe itself. There is a bolt that holds it to the subframe. This is a common (so I am told) place to get stress fractures and metal fatigue, so it might be worth looking at it all apart.
I went thru a similar problem that you have and ended up removing the subframe arm, then found the area around that forward bolt was actually torn.

Anyway, if your goal is to drop the engine/suspension, if the arm is disconnected from the subframe, you can swivel it down/up and will have a lot more room to get at the bolt.

[RallyBob]

Paul, Opelbits is right. The L-shaped arms are very prone to cracking where they bolt to the front suspension crossmember. Right here is the culprit.

The first car I saw this on was on Smitty's (of C & R) Sportwagon back in 1985, right after he did a (paved) hillclimb. Since then, I'd say about 75-80% of the cars I've taken apart had some degree of cracking here. The harder you drive 'em, the worse they are!

Bob

[Paul]

Paul,

I concur with Bill. Grind the head off the bolt and drive it out. I worked on mine for over a month using the common tricks, PB blaster, heat, BF hammer. etc. Finally I decided to waste the bolt... I bought a cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder at Harbor Freight and 5 minutes later... the bolt was out!

[azopelnut]

Bill's method was the trick!!
This forum is great!!!
I will take some pics and post them

[dallasmanta]

Yes the cutting wheel on an air grinder was the ticket after a month of trying everything else. Got the bushing and and opel bolt from Dr Manta in Germany. replaced the sheet metal on the rail, battery box and floors a the same time got those through Charles when he got his order in. still have one jack lift point ( from Germany) that i did not use. Did find the L shaped suspension brace stressed cracked at the bolt hole and replaced it. Ron.