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| Group 3 - Suspension and Steering Front Suspension, Steering Linkage, Rear Suspension, Wheels and Tires |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pinellas Park, FL
Posts: 31
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Unanswered: paint for suspension parts?
Jim |
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#2 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
![]() Provided Answers: 6
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Jim, use the search button and plug in POR-15, there are a lot of threads on this product. Also a comparison of POR-15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulation. There is also a picture of my differential under the thread "painting my opel" I used the gloss black, I haven't tried their "Hardnose" paints yet, but It just may be a matter of time before I use it. I guess I'll have to post a pic of the differential in my gallery. HTH.
Ron The pic of my differential is now uploaded in my photo gallery. Ron Last edited by namba209; 11-24-2003 at 12:31 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pinellas Park, FL
Posts: 31
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Thanks for the tip Ron. I did read before the comparison between POR-15 and Eastwood but had not read the thread with your differential pic. By the way the differential looks good! Since I didn't find any other references to other paint manufacturers i'm assuming that POR-15 and Eastwood are the suspension paints of choice. I was just wondering if anyone has used another brand of paint with success? Oh well, I guess I'll give the POR-15 Hardnose paint a try, from what I read about it, it's suppose to be extremely durable.
Jim |
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#4 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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Jim, I just reread the catalog from RestoMotive and they recommend using the POR-15 first, then use the Hardnose as a topcoat. Using that criteria, I would suggest getting a starter set from them for $14.95, use it first, them topcoat it with the hardnose. The starter set was enough material to do my whole rear-end package with one coat by brush. If I would have used my spray gun, I probably could have applied two coats easily. Here's a suggestion, that works for me, get some "Mason" jars and stir the paint, then pour it into the jars. If you get paint on the lip of the can where the lid goes, you'll never get the lid back off after it dries without destroying the can. Just make sure you don't get paint on the sealing surface of the jar, same thing, the lid will not come off without destroying it. Like the folks say, once it dries, it will not come off, short of an atom bomb blast.
Ron |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Opel Addicts
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Tallmadge, Ohio
Posts: 1,138
Real Name: Vickie and Allen Gage
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My friend the suspension "wizard" and I had this discussion the other day. He's tried POR 15, the Eastwood products and just about all the other paints on the market over the last 30+ years. He swears by epoxy primer with "good ol' Rustoleum" over top. Who knows, maybe the old option is still the best option.
Allen
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#7 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
![]() Provided Answers: 6
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Allen, I did the rear suspension components except the differential with rustoleum, but not over a primer, I wire wheeled everything to get rid of all the rust. When I put the whole rear-end back in the car, I immediately took it back out. The rustoleum had already gotten rusted through after about 2 weeks. The I stripped the whole mess again and used the POR-15. It's been under the car for almost 6 months and no rust noted yet. Just my $.02.
Ron |
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