KYB mount problem

[dakotaguy]

I picked up a set of Gas -a -justs for the rear. I noticed that the top mounting stud is not long enough to install it with the bushing/damper on it. Not enough threads come through. I then checked the other one against the original shock and , yes, it is shorter.

I doubled checked the shock model # and 5552 is the one listed for the GT.

Anyone else have the same problem? How'd ya fix this. If you slice the bushing in half it will work but will this cause problems?

Mucho appreciato on any assistance

[jerseyopel]

Are the bushings larger than the stock ones? Did you try to install the top first and then the bottom? I noticed when I took off my stock shocks they had 1/2 inch more thread than they needed. What is the difference in length of the stud?

[dakotaguy]

Bushings are exact except for a slight taper on originals.

I mounted the bottom first. this really shouldn't matter should it? I'll have to measure the difference in length.

I did slice an old bushing in half and then tried it and it works fine. Off the top of my head I'd say the bushings are 3/4" thick.

[flipper]

I had the same issue with the same shocks. I ended up having to use the old bushings and it seems to have worked for a year now with no ill effects.

[jerseyopel]

When you mount the bottom first, it is harder to pull up on the shock. I found it easiest to pull down on the shock and use old bushings which were smaller.

[DennisGardiner]

I have installed these rear KYBs on a few GTs over the years.
They are a challenge to install at the top, but I have never failed to
get them installed (even with the short stud) in GTs. It just requires
a bit more patience, and a second set of hands to hold the shock up
tight to the shock body mounting. Also you will notice that the upper
washer & bushing are cut to accept the deep nut for the shock mounting.

Try it again with another person helping you hold the shock up parallel
to the mounting in the body. I have noticed that tilting the shock off of
its sweet spot makes it harder to install as well.

Good Luck, I've installed more than my share on GTs.
Dennis 73 GT 73 Manta

[soybean]

I mounted mine about a month ago and mounted the top first, then the bottom. It took a second set of hands because I had to push up from the bottom and my son threaded the nut on the top. Also we found out that the angle that the top of the shock goes in at the chassis was part of the problem. If you're off a little it makes it very difficult. Hth, Jarrell

[dakotaguy]

O.k. Troops. Good stuff!

i wasn't sure if the old bushings were originals or not but they were the same thickness as the new ones.

I'm sure those who will be installing these will appreciate the info. I know I do.
I'll try mounting the top stud first.
Guess we'll be gettin' the wife out to assist on this job

[BQS4]

That's why we have to take them out to dinner every once in a while!

[dakotaguy]

here is a couple of photos. Remember I don't know if the old ones originals or not.
from the bottom of the stud on the old one to top of shaft is 2 3/16". To top of threads is 2". New ones (KYB) from bottom of stud mount is 1 14/16" From top of bottom stud mount to top of stud is 1 11/16". Just thought a photo might help.

[soybean]

I had the same problem when I mounted ours. In fact one had a lock nut, the other had a locking nut. We got two to three threads engaged and tighted up the nut until the rubbers top and bottom compressed to the edges of the upper and lower washers. If you want I can get a pictureof them in the Am as my spare tie rack is out of the car. I don't remember how many threads were showing as my son was running that end with the wrench. Jarrell

[dakotaguy]

hey soybean. Thanks. I am slight confused (probably to muc operator headspace!) as to how the washers and nut go on. The asher appears to be manufactured to press into the bushing. But then it the concave portion is on the up side so the washer wouldn't "cup" the bushing as opposed to flipping it over. Then the bushing rests nicley in the washer. Weird setup. A photo (if you can get in there) would really be cool.

Thanks for the input!

[soybean]

I've enclosed some pictures of our shocks. The reason for some of the odd angles where the rubber is compressed, is the coil springs need to be cut 2 turns as they came from a station wagon. The car is sitting way too high. Once they are cut the compression of the rubber washers should be the same all around.
The lock nut was tapered and fit through the washer and into a little indention in the top of the upper rubber washer. The other side was just like a regular shock, except double nutted instead of a lock nut. I ran into the same thing when I rebuilt the front suspension. Strange, but it worked. Hope I didn't confuse you more. Jarrell

[soybean]

Here is the last of the thread that lead me to where I am now. I haven't cut the springs as I still haven't put the front suspension back under the car. HTH, Jarrell
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...4353#post34353

[dakotaguy]

There is an important piece of information in there. I can almost swear that my locknut will NOT fit through the washer hence therein could be the problem. I'm going to photograph the pieces and hopefully someone will say yes or no as to if they are correct. I know for sure the shocks are I double checked the model stamped on the base.The saga continues

Thanks for the input!

[dakotaguy]

After careful examination I found that the washers are DIFFERENT!!!!
If one looks quickly two of them look similar. The bore on one of them will accept the weird nut. I've attached a couple of photos. The stand alone washer is the one that goes on the bottom mount. BTW the KYB cushions or bushings are significantly stiffer or harder than the factory ones. This might explain why you need a buddy (or sweetie in my case) to help you snug them up there until the nut can be attached.

Thanks to all who responded. Hope this helps others. And Yes, am now bending over for the obligatory flogging for being stupid :o