Replacing front and rear shocks

[baronbors]

Got a quote on replacing both sets of shocks on the GT. Larry, Moe and Curley's Auto repair wanted over $110 in labor for doing the job. I checked the search engine on the site but no info on replacing them myself. Can I do it without power tools and only sockets or would I be bitting off more than I could chew? I can't believe it should be that hard but I am afraid I might get them off and not get the new ones on. Any advice?? :o

[N61WP]

Tom,

It's nothing fancy, very straight forward. Just take your time and you shouldn't have any trouble. If the bolts on the old ones are rusted, just spray them down with PB Blaster and let it soak. There probably isn't room to get in there with air tools anyway.

Save the hundred beans for something else. (More parts!)

Bestus,
James

[soybean]

Most definately do it yourself. It is not hard at all, and like James said "Save your money for more parts" Jarrell

[BQS4]

Replacing shocks, especially on older car, like Opels, is the biggest money making item for shops. It's that easy. Now the McPhearson stuts, that's is dangerous to do by yourself, but, my guess is that's why they're quoting so much.

[namba209]

Tom, Probably the reason you got the heavy duty quote is because for the rear shocks the spare tire shelf has to come out to access the upper mounts for the shocks. The front shocks have the plastic caps on the upper fender well into the engine compartment to access those mounts. And like every one else stated, a fairly simple task, just a bit time consuming to take out the spare tire shelf. HTH.

[Scott McDonald]

I did both front and rear recently. No big deal. I didn't have to remove my spare tire when replacing the rear shocks either. Just the front panel under the spare needed to come off.

[namba209]

Scott, thanx for that update on the rear shocks. I have my whole interior stripped, and didn't know the upper rear shock mounting nuts were available through that panel. I just presumed the tire shelf had to come out for easy access.

[baronbors]

I apppreciate everyone support and confidence BUT I really need to know the proper procedure. Top bolt first?? Bottom bolt first?? compress the springs?? How high does the frame have to be.?? Pretty sure I can do it, just never done it before and need to know HOW??

[bosco]

I did this a year ago and it was pretty easy......except that I came across some rust under one of the plastic caps covering a front mount (under which the nut and mounting shaft were heavily rusted but gave way to a dremel with a cutting tip). You don't have to jack it up real high...just enough to be able to get to the nuts and to manuever around as necessary.

I know the rear axle will drop all the way down once the rear shocks are detached...so jackstand the rear at the jacking points then put a floor jack under the differential and jack it up a few inches from its full travel position and just unbolt the shocks......I'm not sure that it matters which end first......maybe do the top first and then you can hang on to the shock once the bottom one is off. The bottom shock mount slides off a small shaft so you might want to use some aerokroil or other rust penetrant a day or so before just to be sure everything unbolts and slides easily.

The fronts were not much more difficult but I don't remember if the control arms will flop down without the shock in there or not. You could do the same thing as in the back...jackstands under the side jacking points and put something under the tire so it won't drop down. Again use penetrant on all the nuts to make your job easier.

I used gas shocks and they wanted to kinda shoot up on their own and were slightly more of a pain in the front. If necessary you can compress them by hand in order to get the top mounting shaft to go thru the hole. Be sure to follow the instructions as to the rubber insulators and rounded washers but their use should be fairly obvious....especially if you watch how the old shocks come off.

All in all it's an easy job, the worst part would be any rusted pieces. Hope that helps.

[72GT]

The two upper rear shock mounts are set in front of the gas tank, here is a picture.

[namba209]

Tom, you don't have to jack up the rear at all to replace those shocks, personally, now that I have new ones in the rear I would line up the top of the shocks into the holes and attach at the bottom then do the nuts on top, that way the shocks won't come out the hole and fall to the ground after you initially put them in the hole. For the front shocks I don't know yet, I totally disassembled my front end and the shocks came out in the process, but you may have to put a jack under the spring attach bolt on the LCA to take the tension off the spring while you take out the bottom bolt and the upper attach nut. I would, again start the top of the shock through the hole and slide the bottom in place, put the bolt in, then tighten the upper nut, then the bottom nut and bolt. My suspension is still in pieces, some painted, the rest to be painted tomorrow, then the new poly bushings go in. HTH.

[soybean]

Bonbors, for the rear shocks I would put the top in first. It also helps to have an extra set of hands as the KYBs had to be in the correct position to start the nuts on them. If you take out the rear shelf, which I did, it would be a good idea to check out your tank vent lines and replace if necessary. The front I did with the suspension out to replace the bushings at the same time, so I have no advice on having done it on the car. HTH, Jarrell

[jordan]

Since I have heard that the rear antisway bar makes little to no handling improvement and is difficult to install, would it be a wise Idea to put stiffer shocks on the rear and only use the front antisway bar, I am not looking for the ability of super performance driving, I would just like to eliminate the body roll as I've heard the front will do almost fully, I will also replace the front shocks I was thinking of KYB's (thats why I posted under this thread.)

[BDD]

I have read at this site that between the two, installing the rear anti-sway bar is the first priority and makes the most initial difference in handling. There are some pretty good discussions here. Maybe you'll read them differently.

BDD

[jordan]

my impression and from what I have heard personally from people is that the front will make the most difference and the back will just make it a little tighter.

[soybean]

You are correct Jordan. But the way I look at it, "in for a penny, in for a pound" The rear shocks make for a firmer ride. The KYBs I have on, in conjunction with the Station wagon springs (cut down as per a thread here) and 205/60 R 13s, she sticks to the road like glue. The only other upgrade for the rear would be a sway bar, and I don't think I really need one now. Jarrell

[jordan]

so it is not directly dangerous to have the front antisway bar with out the rear and use the firmer KYB shocks?

[soybean]

Originally Posted by jordan so it is not directly dangerous to have the front antisway bar with out the rear and use the firmer KYB shocks?

I wouldn't think so. Jarrell

[Scott McDonald]

I have the high pressure KYB's on the rear of my GT, as well as cut-down wagon springs. I got the KYB's on Ebay for I think $40.00/pr.

What a difference these things make! Before, the car handled "Willy-Nilly" when I'd put it into a 40mph (64kph) curve @ 70mph (112kph). When I'd try to correct the roll, and move further outside, the weight would shift(rather violently, I might add), from one side to the other if I was not very cognizant of my steering. Now, that same curve is much more delightful. The rear geometry rose maybe 1/2 inch(1.3cm).

I also added Koni Red shocks to the front, and soft poly bushings throughout.

I have a front anti-sway bar, but have yet to install, as I'm waiting for the completion of my new engine before I crawl under the car again.

As far as rear shock install:

• I lifted the rear.

• I opened the rear panel and removed one(1) retaining nut from a shock.

• I removed the corresponding assembly from the outside bottom of the shock.

• I compressed the shock with my hands and pulled it from the top hole.

• I connected the bottom of the new shock to the rear.

• I "pulled, and held the string," which is part of a pulley system compressing the new shock.

• I guided the shock up through the top hole, slacking the string slowly, to let the shock rise.

• Finally I attached the top nut/bushings.

For the front shocks (Koni):

• I raised one side of the car @ the jacking point, and placed car on jackstand.

• I removed tire.

• I raised the leaf spring with my floor jack until the leaf was lightly pushed with the jack.

• I unbolted the top ball joint (pay attention to what camber adjustment you're set), and moved the hub down a bit for access to the shock.

• I unbolted the bottom and top of the shock.

• I then read, rather looked-at the completely crappy pictorial instructions provided by Koni. Then I called Gil @ OGTS for adjustment procedure.

• Fully compress Koni using only my hands.

• Set Koni to fully stiff by rotating the top of the shock clockwise, as opposed to widdershins-while the shock is fully compressed.

• Decompress Koni by pulling (do not twist the shock widdershins, as you may lower the stiffness before the shock has disengaged the adjustment key found inside the shock.)

• Lay shock sideways when I have fully decompressed it. (It will take a bit, as when set to fully stiff, the shock is difficult to pull-apart.)

• Wife brings a Laphroaig-(neat), and I take a break.

• Place golf tee as a shim in the seam between the upper and lower shock halves.

• Bolt bottom of shock into holder.

• Bolt top of shock into holder, after spraying rust preventative inside.

• Remove shim.

• Reattach hub, tire, etc.

I may have missed some stuff, but that's most of the procedure from memory. If I am deficient, please feel free to chime-in.

[jordan]

So, front anti sway bar (addco) with low pressure KYB's in the front and high pressure KYB's in the back sound like a good combonation?