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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3
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Unanswered: Brake booster question
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#2 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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I'm kinda guessing a bit here that you've got a real good booster and with the check valve installed it's holding a good vacuum. With the check valve out of the system, the vacuum bled off when you shut down the engine, then when you start the engine the vacuum builds up again, pulling the brake pedal. Next question, do the brakes feel harder to apply or are they the same?
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,216
Real Name: Erick
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Is the check valve working good??, it seems before you installed the check valve all was OK
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Opel Ascona; driving one is like living on the edge. Only built from 1970 - 1975 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the input.
The addition of the check valve really didn't help with pedal pressure -which seems pretty stiff. I don't have much Opel experience, but it seems about what you would expect in brakes without power assist. With the check valve installed the stalling that occurred anytime I hit the brakes was fixed. I removed the valve and blew through it to make sure it was unimpeded. It correctly allows easy airflow in only one direction. The service manual indicates the way to check the function of the brake booster is to feel the brake pedal depress when you start the engine. That only seems to occur without the valve in place. Know any other way to check the function of the booster? Thanks again, Art |
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#5 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Salfordville, PA
Posts: 2,143
Real Name: Jeff
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Simple test. unhook the vacuum line from the brake booster and plug the rubber hose which goes to the carb. Drive your car and try the brakes.
Re hook up the vacuum line to the booster and drive the car. If you notice a difference(better braking with line attached), then your booster works OK. The booster is not like on an American car where the difference is night and day. It is a little more like night and early morning.
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1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983 2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Restoration Dude
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 1,069
Real Name: Juan Blanco PhD.
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The other way to check it is when you press the brake pedal, the engine will go up in RPMs if the booster is bad. I replaced the Opel unit with a BMW E-30 booster which is a 9" unit. It bolts right in and you can reuse the master cylinder and reservoir. You will however need to create an "interface" to mate up with the brake rod but that is very easy to do.
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JB Restore, Customize and Conquer!!! '73 Opel GT Convertible "Stealth" '70 Opel GT - 4 speed "Lucy" '72 Opel GT - 4.0L V6 automatic "Animal" '72 Opel Ascona 1900 "Junk Yard Dog" '71 Opel Manta Automatic "Coco" '72 Pontiac Ventura II SD455 "Monster" '07 GMC Sierra 1500 - Daily driver |
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