Brakes Booster Question.

[gt crazy]

Is the spot were the rod and boot is suppose to leak air out or be air tight. because mine is leaking air out from that area

[gt crazy]

i forgot to mention my booster was full of brake fluid. i dont think thats suppose to be in there right?

[namba209]

Ambient air pressure is supposed to go in to the back side of the vacuum booster, that with the vacuum on the other side of the diaphragm is what give you "power" brakes. Whether the air goes in to the shaft housing or not IDK, but seems plausible. HTH.

[Anonymous D]

Fluid in the booster is not good. Try not to drip any brake fluid on painted car surfaces, as it will cause a discoloration in the paint. Drain all the brake fluid out, and let the booster dry a bit. It's caused by a leaky front seal in the master cylinder -- which can either be honed and resealed, or replaced (presuming a retailer has either the rebuild kit or a rebuilt Opel master cylinder, actually in stock).

[gt crazy]

k just as i thought. i took everything off dried it out and put it all back on. and still no brakes. so my parents are gonna loan me 300 bucks to buy a new booster and master cylinder hopefully it works :/

[ungermm]

I would think your master cylinder is pretty much shot and leaking badly out the shaft end. They are rebuildable if not badly rusted inside. And, with oil in the booster, that probably swelled up the rubber diaphragm/seal and caused it to leak. However, the booster check valve on the hose from the intake to the booster should prevent air going in that direction. Check it to make sure it is functioning properly and the arrow on it is pointing towards the intake.
Jerry

[West Coast GT]

If you have hydraulic fluid in your brake booster, I recommend changing the booster for a new or re-manufactured unit. Someone told me the fluid will shorten the life of the diaphragm. I had the same situation last year that you have now.

[opelbits]

Louis-

If the booster needs rebuilding, I recommend a place called Vanco in California. I used them and it was about $130 including shipping. I think this is the correct address/phone number:

9738 Atlantic Avenue
South Gate California 90280
Toll Free: 800-256-6295
Local Ph: 323-563-1588
Fax: 323-563-1318

This might help you with the master. It might be that you have to send them your master and they rebuilt it, but I'm not sure.
1972 OPEL OPEL GT Master Cylinder
They have a warehouse here in St. Louis, but it is not under the Rockauto name. Oddly enough, I believe it is called MidCoast.
Also, check out their prices on the brake hoses. Since your lines will need to be rebled after replacing the master, might as well replace all three rubber hoses. The rear wheel cylinder prices are pretty cheap, too. They list some Raybestos cylinders for $15 each ($8.00 for some wholesaler close-outs).

[gt crazy]

thats what me and my dad assumed that the master cylinder leaked into the brake booster causing it to demolish any exposed seals. and i think thats why the booster leaks air from where the rod and boot connect to it.

[newman27]

I'm running a rebuilt MC and brake booster from OGTS which is working nicely. For about the $300 you have, you could ship everything off to them and get rebuilt parts back and be good to go.

Matt

[gt crazy]

i think im gonna get my master cylinder from napa (depends on the price) but the booster ill be ordering when my dad gets home. just a question how long will it take for them to send it. because it said core required. am i going to have to wait till they receive my core or what???

[gt crazy]

I just placed the order at opel gt source for the power brake booster and master cylinder. waiting for them to contact me.

[Opelupogus]

Originally Posted by opelbits ...The rear wheel cylinder prices are pretty cheap, too. They list some Raybestos cylinders for $15 each ...

Lewis,
The rear cylinders are fairly inexpensive and very easy to install - I recently picked up a Beck-Arnley rear cylinder from the downtown STL NAPA for $18. Unfortunately I broke the severely rusted lower hold down spring while removing it, but NAPA also carries a Hold Down Spring Kit for $7.
--Bruce

[gt crazy]

yes finally parts came in and installed the booster and master cylinder. but when i was putting front left brake line screw on the freaking thing stripped out!

Now i have to go to the back yard go to the parts car take the line off, make sure the line aint clogged or rusty, then start all over again

[tomking]

dont waste your time pulling rubber lines off parts cars from the junkyard. Go buy new lines. You are wasting your time and money on old rubber lines if that is what you are doing. Steel lines are OK.

[markandson]

Originally Posted by gt crazy yes finally parts came in and installed the booster and master cylinder. but when i was putting front left brake line screw on the freaking thing stripped out! Now i have to go to the back yard go to the parts car take the line off, make sure the line aint clogged or rusty, then start all over again

If you stripped the part on the line only, no problem, if you also affected the threads in the caliper or anywhere else, that part is toast. Your life is on the line when you step on the brake pedal, every time, don't cheat here, it's not the place for it. The key to reassembly is patience, don't rush anything, if you can't get a thread started, walk away and come back an hour later, rushing and/or lack of patience only causes more problems.

[gt crazy]

the thread didnt strip it was the head where u put the wrench. the parts opel has steel lines thats why im gonna try to use those.

but the thread started but it wouldnt finish. right before it would tighten up the rest of the way it would stop. so i put muscles into it and boom. stripped the head. and the steel lines have that flare so you can just take the tightening screw off, you have to get whole new brake line.