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Old 02-06-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: What angle to reflare brake lines?

OK. so i tried to get the other brake line off the parts car and i guess the bolt was to rusty for its own good and it stripped out. i even used the 10mm line wrench... SO THEREFORE... i have to chop the metal line put a new bolt on there and then reflare it. but i have no clue at what angle to reflare it at? would a 45 degree work? the stock looks more like a 90 degree. and where the cheapest tool to do it with. money is really tight and i need my car to get a job
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Old 02-06-2008   #2 (permalink)
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How about instead of spending the bucks on a flaring tool, just get a new "J" line from OGTS, it has the correct "new" fittings on it already.
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Old 02-06-2008   #3 (permalink)
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how much would that be? cuz i called ogts and he said to go to napa and get the bolt and reflare it
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Old 02-06-2008   #4 (permalink)
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IDK what it would cost. But just going to their catalog, they don't list it separately. It may be cheaper to go to a local auto parts store with your old line in hand and have them match the fittings and line length. It shouldn't be more than $5.
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Old 02-06-2008   #5 (permalink)
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It is not a 45* single flare. It is a double flare, IDK the degrees though. Your regular copper tubing flare will not cut it.
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Old 02-06-2008   #6 (permalink)
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You're right Tom, it's a 45 degree double flare. My suggestion was to get a new line, with metric fittings, from his local auto parts store. That way he won't have to buy a flaring tool and do the flaring job too. With brake lines as critical as they are, it's not something for the "shadetree" mech to mess with, without doing a lot of practice to get it right. I had to get a new "J" line from OGTS, when I installed their brake line package, the one line, even though made on a production line, wasn't flared correctly and leaked.
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Old 02-06-2008   #7 (permalink)
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well i have extra bolts that tight the flare to the master cylinder on the parts car. so i just need somebody that has a flare tool that i could use. maybe give them like 10 bucks for something if they do it right
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Old 02-06-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Is the line still usable, if you cut off the bad nut, slip on the new and reflare, will it still fit? If you get new line, you'd have to bend it, that's easier said than done too I believe. I'd take the old line to NAPA or similar and have them make you a new one. With the right METRIC nut. Like Ron said.
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Old 02-06-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Steel brake lines are cheap, like under the $10 you were offering to pay someone. Just take the nuts you have to the parts store and have them match you up with a new line the right length.

Otherwise most parts stores have brake flaring tools you can borrow, rent, or lease to flare yourself.
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Old 02-06-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Use N E W

Any half-way decent Brake & Clutch Shop or Auto Store which sells brake parts should be able to make you up an NEW line with the correct metric nuts on each end and proper 'double flares' for less than $20 with all new parts.

If you have trouble finding a good brake shop that knows about metric nuts go see the closest BMW/Audi/VW or Mercedes Agency and ask where they get their brake stuff done - mumble: "I got an ... Opel"
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Old 02-06-2008   #11 (permalink)
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The flaring tool for double flares is VERY expensive, I don't remember the cost but I was going to buy one when I did my Ghia and was blown away by the price. I borrowed one from a mechanic friend who fixes Bimmers. BTW the nuts on the lines are 11mm, if a 10mm fits it's because the nuts are worn. I am in the process of installing my new line kit from OGTS right now and I must say it is a real PITA. The right front line has so many bends I am surprised the fluid knows which way to go . I spent about 1 1/2 hours on that line alone tonight and didn't finish it yet, I sure hope it reaches the MC, you never know until you make the last bend.
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Old 02-06-2008   #12 (permalink)
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my line is perfect all i need is just that one bolt. would the brake shop give the exact replica because i really dont wanna stick anything that might not have same threads on a BRAND NEW MASTER CYLINDER. just spent 400 bucks just for the booster and master cylinder
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Old 02-06-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt crazy View Post
my line is perfect all i need is just that one bolt. would the brake shop give the exact replica because i really dont wanna stick anything that might not have same threads on a BRAND NEW MASTER CYLINDER. just spent 400 bucks just for the booster and master cylinder
First off, how about the correct terminology, you stripped the flats on the line "fitting". Now you need to replace either the fitting or the entire line. To replace the fitting, the line will have to be cut as close to the flared end as possible. With a tubing cutter, you'll lose about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, then another 1/4 inch to double flare the new end after the fitting is slipped back on the line. Going to you local auto parts store and getting the correct length line, plus or minus an inch or so, with the correct fittings would be far cheaper than the time it would take to cut and flare the line IMHO, where the shop will charge the going hourly rate.
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Old 02-06-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt crazy View Post
my line is perfect all i need is just that one bolt. would the brake shop give the exact replica because i really dont wanna stick anything that might not have same threads on a BRAND NEW MASTER CYLINDER. just spent 400 bucks just for the booster and master cylinder
If you just spent $400 on the MC, what the heck are you screwing around with old lines for, just buy the whole kit from OGTS and finish the job correctly, those old lines are full of junk that will end up in your MC.
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Old 02-06-2008   #15 (permalink)
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But the big lesson learned here is to use a tool called a "flare wrench" when messing with such "bolts". Try it, you'll like it! Those threads get really rusty and seized up, too, so a tiny dab of anti-seize will make the job so much easier for the next guy who wants to play there.
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Old 02-06-2008   #16 (permalink)
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Too Short ...

With the bit cut off the end of your line it is sure to end up too short if reflared - also the double flaring tool needs an inch or two of straight line to clamp on to make the flare - the easiest ... and safest ... way to go is to get a new line.

Take the nut and fitting from the master cylinder with you - if the new nut does not spin into the fitting with finger pressure only - it is the wrong thread.
You can match the threads of the old nut against the new one - if they do not mesh exactly then the shop is trying to palm you off with the wrong nut - go elsewhere!

It is up to you to ensure that you get the correct one.
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Old 02-06-2008   #17 (permalink)
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we stripped the head of the screw trying to put it on. we took it off and now its just sitting there. but ill call around and see if any store can help me out.

i would get new lines but i still havent paid off my master cylinder or booster. owe my parents the money. ill get new lines when the money permits.
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Old 02-06-2008   #18 (permalink)
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Seamless tubing
Dont worry about it..like dude its only used on brakes who needs it anyway
Its your life.. go fast and die young..
Think about it..
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Old 02-06-2008   #19 (permalink)
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ok FINE..... how much would it cost for ALL new metal brake lines with the bolt things on them. im gonna have to cancel insurance can't afford them both but hey safety first...
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Old 02-07-2008   #20 (permalink)
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Let me know if you can't find the ends...I bought a bunch off e-bay a long time ago.They are supposed to be the correct ones. I have no idea if they will work as I have not tried them yet. But, I can send you a couple of them if need be. Just promise to replace the whole line and not "doctor" it up! K?
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What we got here is........failure......................... to communicate....
Some men,you just cant reach...so you get what we had here last week...which is the way he wants it.
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Old 02-07-2008   #21 (permalink)
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give me a little bit to trough some money together and ill let you know when i have the new lines
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Old 02-07-2008   #22 (permalink)
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