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Old 02-22-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: brake bleeding order

I know now that you work from closest the MC to the farthest.I did the opposite.Haven't drove it yet but it feels firm.A mechanic & lordco said to do it from the farthest away first.The opel gt manual dissagrees.Not questioning the Opel gods but just want to understand why the difference in opinions.
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Old 02-22-2009   #2 (permalink)
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I've heard of both methods. I used your method on my wife's '70 Camaro and had no problems. I think it is a matter of preference.
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Old 02-22-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dale .D View Post
I know now that you work from closest the MC to the farthest.I did the opposite.Haven't drove it yet but it feels firm.A mechanic & lordco said to do it from the farthest away first.The opel gt manual dissagrees.Not questioning the Opel gods but just want to understand why the difference in opinions.
I never do the closest one first, I go to the furthest and work my way to the closest. It really does not matter which way you do it as long as you get all of the air out of the system. The rear drum circuit pretty much determines the heigth of your pedal. So after you bleed the system properly, adjust the emergency brake as the final step.

I also go an extra step after I get all of the air out and have a firm pedal, I press the pedal several times in 30 second intervals and gravity bleed all four corners again. There is nothing like gravity to push any remaining air bubbles out.
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Old 02-22-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blancojp View Post
It really does not matter which way you do it as long as you get all of the air out of the system.
I've had equal results also.
The rear drum circuit pretty much determines the height of your pedal.
Adjust the rear shoes. All four of them.
So after you bleed the system properly, adjust the emergency brake as the final step.
Often forgotten.
I also go an extra step after I get all of the air out and have a firm pedal, I press the pedal several times in 30 second intervals and gravity bleed all four corners again. There is nothing like gravity to push any remaining air bubbles out.
Gravity bleeding, if it works, is great. I understand there are some braking systems it doesn't work on but our Opels are not included in that group.

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Old 02-22-2009   #5 (permalink)
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It all depends..
If you changed out the M/C I'll generally bench bleed it before installation.
If the M/C went dry because of leaking components I'll crack the lines at the M/C first and on a GT its a pita. Don't forget that brake fluid will strip off paint. Just wash it out with a water hose. Then go to the longest line first.
As has been stated before in the prior posts it really does not matter on the older Opels 68-75.
WARNING !!! If the car has ABS braking system read the manual.
Disclaimer use the above info at your own risk.

Last edited by wrench459; 02-22-2009 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 08-14-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
It all depends..
If you changed out the M/C I'll generally bench bleed it before installation.
If the M/C went dry because of leaking components I'll crack the lines at the M/C first and on a GT its a pita. Don't forget that brake fluid will strip off paint. Just wash it out with a water hose. Then go to the longest line first.
As has been stated before in the prior posts it really does not matter on the older Opels 68-75.
WARNING !!! If the car has ABS braking system read the manual.
Disclaimer use the above info at your own risk.
Dale D., I worked and learned a few things at BMW from some real sharp mechanics. If you are putting in a new/rebuilt master, bench bleed it well in or out of the car until all bubbles stop. If you have the old master and are just doing a brake job with new pads etc., then do NOT have someone inside the car pumping the pedal and you release the bleeder valve!! You must get a vacumn pump and a jar or bottle set-up to see the old fluid and bubbles coming out of the system. If you pump/foot bleed the system, you will push the piston/seals all the way to the floor where they normally never travel. This area has pitting and crap that tears the snot out of the seals, and will result in the failure of the master cyl. shortly thereafter. Also, always bleed farthest first, that way you get the most bad fluid out first.Also check your back hose begore bleeding, they deteriorate on the inside, and a flap can seal the line & prevent flow to the cyl.
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