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#1 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Unanswered: Brake Booster removal
I am parting out a Gt and I can't get the damned brake booster and master cyl out. I've followed the FSM and gotten the 4 bolts that attach the booster to the support out but can't get the thrust rod loose, and can't get the whole thing to move forward but about an inch. Any ideas? I've had to walk away from it 3 times to keep from going off. Do I need to remove the master cyl to the booster first? Is there a clip on the thrust rod? The way I'm reading the FSM, I shouldn't have to remove the master cyl.Thanks, Jarrell
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#2 (permalink) |
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4246 Post Club
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
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The trick is in the #5 instruction: "Loosen thrust rod lock nut and unscrew the piston push rod while holding the master cylinder brake booster assembly."
I had to remove the brake pedal before I could get the push rod loose from the hole it attached to and be able to unscrew it - took two days! |
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GTJim
Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2008 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#4 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
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Ahh, it's great to have an Opel in pieces and have a digital camera too. Here'a a pic of the whole MC assembly with brake rod attached. There is a cotter pin and spring washer that attaches the rod to the brake pedal, the jam nut that locks the rod to the vacuum booster and the MC itself. HTH.
Ron |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Thanks Jim,Tom and Ron. Got it off after slamming the brake pedal forward and unscrewing the thrust rod lock nut and unscrewing the piston push rod. I wouldn't have done it on the running Gt, but on this junker sometimes a kick helps.
Next is the headlight buckets removal. One of them is locked up solid and the other will spin, Whee, what fun in the sun and humidity. Thanks Guys, Jarrell
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
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Brake booster removal - removing the pedal?
I'm also having trouble extricating my old booster.
GTJIM- you said you had to remove the brake pedal to get the dang thing free. I can see how this wiill work, but it's not clear to me how to remove the pedal. I saw (and removed ) the cotter pin on the thrust rod, but It still doesn't clear the brake pedal arm. Any ideas/suggestions? The FSM makes it sound like a 5 minute job! Thanks, Ron |
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#7 (permalink) |
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OPEL-LESS!!!
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the Brake pedal does not need to be removed. in the engine compartment insde the "C" channel that cover the brake booster rod, there is a part of the rod that is adjustable. you will see where you can use nuts to adjust the length of that rod. loosen that rod up and it will unthread out of the booster. the booster will have a section of rod about 6-8 inches still connected to it, the rest of the rod will stay in place with the car, will post pics tomarrow if needed.
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previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.
currently own 92 25th anniversary Z28. Ttop, 350, T56 swap, many upgrades, basically a complete restore. 67 chevy sportvan deluxe....next in line. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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4246 Post Club
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Nuts!
Ron jr, have a look at the picture posted by Ron "the younger" a couple of posts above and you will see the nuts mentioned by GS20.
I did not know they existed when removing my booster but undoing that rod near the large hex bit will let the whole boster assembly come forward far enough to remove it. The pedal only needs to come off to remove the booster with all the rod attached - it has to be undone anyway to get the booster out from in front of the radiator bulkhead. Nicht panicen, nicht ragen - just clamness and patience and perseverance. Last edited by GTJIM; 06-28-2004 at 10:35 PM.. Reason: protocol |
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GTJim
Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2008 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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rrossjr, What did the trick for me was removing the cotter key as was said by GtJim, and then doing what Greensmurf20, replied. I ended up taking the "C" channel that covers the brake booster rod and spun it around and did get enough clearance to pry the piston push rod end where cotter key was, out of the brake pedal. After that it wasn't hard at all. Just hard on the back peering up in the tunnel to get to the cotter key. Jarrell
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