brakes sqeak!!!!

[Willy_g77]

i recently replaced my gt's brakes and they didn't sqeak at first.(5 times i drove it short distances). today they have been really sqeaky or noisey when i touch the brakes. would brake cleaner or any cheap product fix this. i think i have some caliper grease somewhere, hopefully thats all it needs.. they seem to work fine so i dont know what the deal is....

[rangerrick]

If this is the from brakes, disc brakes have a tendancy to do this on most cars!!!

I would sugguest cleaning everthing real well and use some of the glue type adhesive they sell for your front disc pads. You apply it on the back and it helps the pads follow the disc cylinder puck back evenly when they retrack, and keeps them from binding and applying in a cocked manner! Thought it was crap at first, but the stuff really helps as long as you are clean about applying it and let the glue tack up before assembling.

[namba209]

Billy when you replaced the pads did you put the shims back between the pistons and pads. They are there for the very reason you speak, to help eliminate the squeal, they are anti-rattle shims, and they dampen out the high frequency vibrations that cause disc brake squeal. HTH.

[Willy_g77]

Nowit is a high pitched sqeal!!!!!! everytime i hit the brake.... they dont rattle, so i don't think it is the shims. although i didnt put them in. the brakes work, they are loud, and they need to stop making so much of a squel.... they are new. and hopefully they just need sanded down or something..I need help an what tjhis can be. i tried puting the shims in but couldn't because of the rotor was to close on each side.

[Tim240Z]

Could be either the pads or rotors. I had a very similar problem with the Wife's Volvo 850. Replaced the pads and it developed a horrendous squeal...I tried everything, from scuffing the pad surface to using SS backing plates, to bottles of 'Brake Disk Quiet' to no avail....
Then someone mentioned that non-OEM compounds can do that very often. Put on new rotors and pads, spend the afternoon 'bedding' them in correctly, and quiet as a ghost now.
Check to see if your rotors have any grooving or other uneveness to them, if so replace or have them turned.....

Here is some good reading:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm


Tim

[namba209]

Billy, put the doggone shims back in, that's the reason they are there, to stop the brake squeal. The squeal is nothing more than a very high frequency vibration, the shims stop the vibrating and stop the squeal.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by Willy_g77 i tried putting the shims in but couldn't because of the rotor was to close on each side.

You have to squeeze both caliper pistons back in a bit (use a clamp, large pliers, or a pair of vice grips if you don't have a caliper retracting tool), remove the pads, and re-install them with the shims in place. Also make sure that the caliper pistons are turned such that the "relieved edge faces downwards at an ange of 20 degrees and facing in the brake disc direction" (as per the FSM). This is only an issue if you removed the pistons from the calipers.
If you still have a "squeal", you can buy a glue type material that you coat the back of the pad and both sides of the shim plates with, which acts like a rubber damping material. But usually (as Tim240Z has pointed out) properly turned rotors, new pads, and proper bedding of the pads, will eliminate squeal.
HTH

[Willy_g77]

pads are new old stock,the rotors are brand new. new wheel bearings. good calipers. back brakes are fine.. i don't want to take the calipers back off, i tried putting the shims in but they wont go in with the calipier still on... but i'll tryu anything, so thanks guys

[GTJIM]

Billy, The calipers do not need to come off as the shims (called "spacer plates" by Opel) will load in from the outside of the calipers along with the pads. To get the pistons back far enough for them to fit just open the brake fluid bleeding valve on the caliper and ease the pistons back into the caliper on each side. It is best not to lever against the disc rotor itself as it can be bent by the use of too much force - if you must lever against it just use two screw drivers and lever BOTH pistons back at the same time. With the bleeder valve open the fluid should come out to let the calipers move back.

There is also a spring clip that hooks under the pins that hold the pads in and have a cross piece the pushes against the outer edge of the pad that is there to damp vibrations too.

HTH

[nobody]

Not trying to disagree but do not open that valve unless you feel the need to rebleed the brakes. Tap the pins out while the calipers are in place. Take them off and a C clamp or larger pair of channel locks work well to squeeze the pistons back and it just returns fluid back to the master cylinder. Then if you want to use them, put the shims in after removing the Calipers. I suspect that the rotors are glazed and a bit of emory cloth could fix you up. also check the runnuot and or looseness of the front bearings while your at it. JM2CW

[Willy_g77]

well finally got the gt back on the road.. the brakes work good, although the "sqeek" is back.. i took it aroud the block when it was really cold out and they wouldnt sqeek.. althouh if i drive it to school(about 2 miles) on a nice day like today(was real sunny about 55-60 degrees) they started sqeeking again.. i put the shims on, sanded the pads with 220 grit, cleaned off the rotors with rough rag and brake cleaner. still it sqeeks, so i am going to purchase some brand new pads.. if that is the problem? the ones i had on there are nos.. any info welcomed, and thanks in advance

[bosco]

When I first got my GT the front brakes squeeked but I turned the rotors...put on new pads and new hardware (pins, shims and retaining spring clips) and they have not squeeked ever in almost 2 yrs. The pistons move back easily into the caliper.....not all at once but slowly.....and all the parts go in without removing the calipers.