Brake / Clutch pivot

Crusher · 04-04-2005

The clutch/brake pivot assy is worn to the point that when I push on the clutch, the connecting shaft for the brake pedal causes the brake pedal to move and activate the brake lights.................

Now, the six million dollar question.....is there an easy way to repace the assy. ?

namba209 · 04-04-2005

There's only 4 bolts that hold it to the firewall, that, and the clutch cable and brake rod. If you can find an assembly, I would think an hour or less to change it out. At least I thinks that's all there is, I can't find mine right now to confirm that. Maybe it's just the pivot bolt that holds it to the firewall. Now I'm curious. HTH.

Killer Texas GT · 04-04-2005

First you need to check the shaft for any signs of wear, I think you will find it in good shape.
Second while you have the shaft out check for wear of the bushings (washers spot weled to the mount support ) to make sure they are not been oblonged from wear. ( I don't think you will fend any problem here either.)
Third chances are that the problem stems from sheet metal fatigue. On later model GTs there was an added brace from the steering column support to stiffen this area up (clutch brake assembly mount hump) of the firewall. The clutch brake assembly mount is spot welded to the firewall and is not removable just by removing the four bolts that hold the reinforcment support from the firewall to the front firewall (unless you drill out the spot welds).
If you find no wear to the parts in the first two steps re-adjust you stop light switch to compensate for the movement created from the use of the clutch. Or, you can remove the dash and add some reiforcement to prevent the flexing of the fire wall.
Been there with this and done that.

Willy_g77 · 04-04-2005

i had the same problem.. i adjusted the brake push rod, and then put a piece of duct tape around the lever that touchs the switch.... not really a fix.. but its kept up so far...

soybean · 04-05-2005

Here's a link to Europarts and a brake light switch that is adjustable and will fit where the original Opel brake light switch fits. Price is $5.25. All that is needed is to change the round Opel plugs to Flat bladed females. You can also bend your brake tab back from the switch a little to increase the clearence.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/(jsulebvo2...aspx?code=5731
HTH, Jarrell

Killer Texas GT · 04-05-2005

Your current brake light switch should be adjustable, if not bend the tab on the brake pedal that acdivates the switch a little at a time to make an adjustment.

Crusher · 04-05-2005

I was told by OGTS that there's no easy way to do it.
I already have adjusted the switch to compensate, but the shaft tweeks when I push on the clutch which leads me to beleive that the bushings are bad...I can grab the shaft and move it back and forth.
I noticed the 4 bolts, I'll check to see if I can spot any spotwelds.
shouldn't be a problem to drill them out and re-build assy.
The fire wall looks good, no cracks or flexing there.

namba209 · 04-05-2005

I found my brake/Clutch assembly and took a couple of pics, front and rear for you to see how they come out of the car. One hanger bolt and the main pivot bolt, disconnect the brake rod and clutch cable and out they come, simple. Then you can really check the wear. HTH.

Crusher · 04-05-2005

I'll give it a try and let ya know .

lgladdis · 04-05-2005

When I bought my GT, I noticed a lot of slop in the pedals on the 6 hr drive home. When I looked at it I found that a previous owner had bolted a bracket to the floor and was using a very long thick bolt and many washers to hold the pedals in place. I found the original shaft in a box under the back shelf. It looks like it had actually fatigued and snapped in two! It had to be a factory flaw that eventually gave out.

I took it to a nearby machine shop and they said they could make me one. The machinist took the time to look how it was supposed to be mounted and he sized the new shaft so I had a nice snug fit.

The bill came to about $30.00 Canadian and I'm pleased with the results. If I had it to do over, the only change I might have made was to adjust the distance between the pedals for just a fraction more room.

04-04-2005	#1 (permalink)
Crusher Opeler Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Federal Way, Wa Posts: 115	Unanswered: Brake / Clutch pivot The clutch/brake pivot assy is worn to the point that when I push on the clutch, the connecting shaft for the brake pedal causes the brake pedal to move and activate the brake lights................. Now, the six million dollar question.....is there an easy way to repace the assy. ?

04-04-2005	#2 (permalink)
namba209 6,000 Post Club Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego Posts: 6,054 Provided Answers: 6	There's only 4 bolts that hold it to the firewall, that, and the clutch cable and brake rod. If you can find an assembly, I would think an hour or less to change it out. At least I thinks that's all there is, I can't find mine right now to confirm that. Maybe it's just the pivot bolt that holds it to the firewall. Now I'm curious. HTH. __________________ Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next Last edited by namba209; 04-04-2005 at 08:59 PM.

04-04-2005	#3 (permalink)
Killer Texas GT Senior Contributor Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Leonard, Texas Posts: 888 Provided Answers: 1	Brake Light comes on when pressing in Clutch First you need to check the shaft for any signs of wear, I think you will find it in good shape. Second while you have the shaft out check for wear of the bushings (washers spot weled to the mount support ) to make sure they are not been oblonged from wear. ( I don't think you will fend any problem here either.) Third chances are that the problem stems from sheet metal fatigue. On later model GTs there was an added brace from the steering column support to stiffen this area up (clutch brake assembly mount hump) of the firewall. The clutch brake assembly mount is spot welded to the firewall and is not removable just by removing the four bolts that hold the reinforcment support from the firewall to the front firewall (unless you drill out the spot welds). If you find no wear to the parts in the first two steps re-adjust you stop light switch to compensate for the movement created from the use of the clutch. Or, you can remove the dash and add some reiforcement to prevent the flexing of the fire wall. Been there with this and done that.

04-04-2005	#4 (permalink)
Willy_g77 Senior Contributor Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Casey, IL USA Posts: 611	i had the same problem.. i adjusted the brake push rod, and then put a piece of duct tape around the lever that touchs the switch.... not really a fix.. but its kept up so far... __________________ {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT 73 manta luxus real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

04-05-2005	#5 (permalink)
soybean Moderator Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Reidsville N.C. Posts: 2,160	Here's a link to Europarts and a brake light switch that is adjustable and will fit where the original Opel brake light switch fits. Price is $5.25. All that is needed is to change the round Opel plugs to Flat bladed females. You can also bend your brake tab back from the switch a little to increase the clearence. http://www.eeuroparts.com/(jsulebvo2...aspx?code=5731 HTH, Jarrell Last edited by soybean; 04-05-2005 at 01:49 AM. Reason: Still learning to type correctly.

04-05-2005	#6 (permalink)
Killer Texas GT Senior Contributor Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Leonard, Texas Posts: 888 Provided Answers: 1	Ajusting brake light switch Your current brake light switch should be adjustable, if not bend the tab on the brake pedal that acdivates the switch a little at a time to make an adjustment.

04-05-2005	#7 (permalink)
Crusher Opeler Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Federal Way, Wa Posts: 115	Brake/clutch pedal pivot I was told by OGTS that there's no easy way to do it. I already have adjusted the switch to compensate, but the shaft tweeks when I push on the clutch which leads me to beleive that the bushings are bad...I can grab the shaft and move it back and forth. I noticed the 4 bolts, I'll check to see if I can spot any spotwelds. shouldn't be a problem to drill them out and re-build assy. The fire wall looks good, no cracks or flexing there.

04-05-2005	#9 (permalink)
Crusher Opeler Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Federal Way, Wa Posts: 115	Brake pivot I'll give it a try and let ya know .

04-05-2005	#10 (permalink)
lgladdis Opeler Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Trail, BC, Canada Posts: 58	I can sympathize When I bought my GT, I noticed a lot of slop in the pedals on the 6 hr drive home. When I looked at it I found that a previous owner had bolted a bracket to the floor and was using a very long thick bolt and many washers to hold the pedals in place. I found the original shaft in a box under the back shelf. It looks like it had actually fatigued and snapped in two! It had to be a factory flaw that eventually gave out. I took it to a nearby machine shop and they said they could make me one. The machinist took the time to look how it was supposed to be mounted and he sized the new shaft so I had a nice snug fit. The bill came to about $30.00 Canadian and I'm pleased with the results. If I had it to do over, the only change I might have made was to adjust the distance between the pedals for just a fraction more room.

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