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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Unanswered: How to change brake fluid
Hello, i read this in a other tread :
Since most of our cars are low daily mileage cars, or even parked for the winter months, that would seem to be a good choice to minimize brake system corrosion. And even at that, the system shouild still be drained, flushed and re-filled with new fluid at least every two years. And not even with old bottles of fluid, since humidity in the air will penetrate the plastic bottles and absorb into the fluid. But wat is the best way to follow ? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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opel free after 25 years
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: sunderland england
Posts: 4,711
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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get a gunton easy bleed kit and follow the instructions for a 1 person change as it uses the air from a tyre to work the system
or for a 2 person change do it as you would any brake bleeding after work on the brake hydrolics keep topping the fluid level up and wait for the fluid going into the collecting jar to turn to a fresh clean colour , do this on all 4 wheels till you have clean fluid btw even a car used every day should have its fluid changed every 2 years |
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Copyright © 2003-2009 barry williams
All Rights Reserved save praying to God for sunday today we pray to Nike and run like hell |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Destiny is to Fly
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Any hints on the best sequence to bleed all 4 brakes? I replaced my front brakes completely 3 years ago, and did the same on the rears about six months ago. Now my red warning light for my master cylinder on the dash stays on. And yes I did replace all the fluid and the 3 rubber hoses!!!
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#4 (permalink) |
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opel free after 25 years
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: sunderland england
Posts: 4,711
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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best hint is to use the search engine as its been covered to death in the past
![]() opel recomend starting with the front caliper farthest away from the MC ,then the one nearest the to the MC ,then do the rear drum with the shortest run of pipe and finnish with the longest |
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Copyright © 2003-2009 barry williams
All Rights Reserved save praying to God for sunday today we pray to Nike and run like hell |
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#5 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
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This brings up a good point. Does anyone here change their brake fluid on a regular basis? I don't know of anyone who does.
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1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983
2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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1971 Opel GT
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as part of the rebuild process i'm draining the system and then running a quart of oil through it just to ensure there's no moisture, then putting another quart in to top it off. after that i plan on sealing itup till next year.
as for changing it? makes sense. i've heard too much about it breaking down and causing issues, so i'll gladly pay out 10 bucks to change it once a year to ensure i can stop this work of art. god knows i wanna drive it, not crash it into something. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,015
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I change the fluid every 20.000 km [12.500 miles]
, that is according to the workshop manual I have, or every year witch comes first. [this is for the A Ascona, but I think will be the same for all Opels]I have one question how does one clean / flush the break tubing so they're clean inside??
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Groetjes, Greetings, Grüße:
Only built from 1970 until 1975 ![]() Daily driver: '72 Ascona 2.0 Luxus Automatic |
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#10 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,033
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Steve, it's one of those things that most folks don't even think about. They just keep going on down the Primrose Path until the accululated moisture in the line corrodes it away and it finally starts to leak or just plain breaks. Been there, done that, with hoses and lines on some of my 7 cars in 50 years of driving. In reality, it's one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" things. The only real problem is, the line/hose could go south right when you really need the brakes.
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Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#11 (permalink) |
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opel free after 25 years
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: sunderland england
Posts: 4,711
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cant be done erick unless you pump the fluid through for a while (fluid that has been passed through the system needs to stand for 24 hours to clear air bubbles before reuse , and never do what my friend used to do all the time and shake the bottle before use to mix it up , as you are adding air bubbles that make it impossible to bleed properly and for this reason always buy your fluid the day before you want to use it )
but not a real problem as there is no ingress of dirt , the discolouring of the old fluid is the water that is absorbed into the old fluid and then gets blackened with age |
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Copyright © 2003-2009 barry williams
All Rights Reserved save praying to God for sunday today we pray to Nike and run like hell |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,015
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@ Baz: Years ago you could buy break oil in a few colors
, making it visable when the break tube was cleared of old oil, but now it only comes in one color
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Groetjes, Greetings, Grüße:
Only built from 1970 until 1975 ![]() Daily driver: '72 Ascona 2.0 Luxus Automatic |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Member
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Sbf!!!
Instead of flushing every year, you may want to consider using Silicon Brake Fluid. It doesn't attract water like the regular stuff, plus if you spill it, it doesn't harm your paint. It is supposed to be higher performance as well (less subject to fade from heat).
I've used it in a few different cars. Costs a bit more initially, but you don't have to keep changing it. jmtcw, jtb |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,015
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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Groetjes, Greetings, Grüße:
Only built from 1970 until 1975 ![]() Daily driver: '72 Ascona 2.0 Luxus Automatic |
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#15 (permalink) |
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opel free after 25 years
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: sunderland england
Posts: 4,711
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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erick do a google search to get local brands
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Copyright © 2003-2009 barry williams
All Rights Reserved save praying to God for sunday today we pray to Nike and run like hell |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
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I actually have 2 quarts of the silicon stuff sitting on a shelf that is about 20 years old. It sounds like I should throw it away and buy some new stuff!
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Steve
"ever notice you are never done tinkering with the GT?" Never mind, I am WAAAY beyond tinkering now...[/SIGPIC] |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,015
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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I googled for it and found out that DOT 5 & Dot 6 are silicone based, and availible at off road stores.
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Groetjes, Greetings, Grüße:
Only built from 1970 until 1975 ![]() Daily driver: '72 Ascona 2.0 Luxus Automatic |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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A word of caution. If you add the newer Silicon Brake fluid to the old "regular" fluid you will have problems. They are not compatible with each other. Here is the thread to read. http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-5...ht=Brake+fluid Love that search feature.
When I redid my brakes on my Brown Gt, I replaced everything with the exception of the brake lines themselves. I blew out the old lines with the air hose and started fresh with Silicon fluid. The next one, "Red one" (gotta name em), I'm going to replace the lines as well. Jarrell |
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You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones)
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,773
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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The seals and hoses will rapidly deteriorate, and you will NEVER EVER get all the oil out of the lines if you do so. If you want to clean the lines, it is recommended to flush them with Isopropyl Alcohol ("rubbing alcohol"), or just clean brake fluid. NEVER oil! As for silicon brake fluids, as has been mentioned, this was discussed ad nauseum a few years back. Modern silicon fluids are, by regulation, now "supposedly" compatible with glycol based fluids. But as a practise, they should NOT be intentionally mixed. And while glycol brake fluids (DOT 3 and 4, DOT 4 just has a higher boiling temp) are hygroscopic (absorbs water), which may lead to fluid boiling under extreme braking, silicon fluids have a worse tendency. Any moisture that gets in the system (not if but when) will separate and collect in the low spots. And will cause more serious corrosion than wet glycol based brake fluids. Which is why ALL brake fluids should be replaced at least every three years (two is better, but seldom done). JM2CW |
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Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Member
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At my workplace (independent) we do a free inspection on every car we see. One of the things we do is test the brake fluid with a test strip. I would guess over 90% of the cars i test have contaminated fluid. Some are so bad the fluid is black and kinda thick, scary.
Dan |
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