engine dies

[mnike000]

This is a 73 gt. I have had it on the road about three days and the only problem is that sometimes it almost dies when I put it in first and start moving. The rpms drop down to about 300 and for about 5 secs then they pick up and it takes off and drives fine. I figured this would be fixed when I rejet the wber. Yesterday I went to drive it and from the moment I start it I have to have my fot on the gas or it dies. I have to restart very time I stop because as soon as I put it in neutral it dies. When I'm in gear and I take my foot off the gas it starts to putter out immediately. As long as my foot is on the gas it drives fine. Othe threads suggested the brake booster for a similarproblem however, I can put it in neutral and keep my foot on the gas while braking with my left foot and it continues to run. Thanks for any suggestions.

[guyopel]

A good place to start is checking for vacuum leaks , spray around the carb. and intake manifold with carb. cleaner HTH

[mnike000]

I just went out and looked at it this morning. I jiggled the electrical conections to the electric choke on my weber and to the brake booster. It started and ran fine. Could these conections have done it? Id like to find the problem. Also if anyone has any advice on the random slow starts described in my first post that would be great.thanks.

[GTJIM]

Sounds like your GT has been sitting a while and things like vacuum leaks, electrical problems, clogged up gas filters, and even a clutch disc that is dragging or 'sticky' on the gearbox spline may be causing your problems.
Fixing them needs to be 'hands-on' by someone who lives with the car - You!
As long distance 'guess-work' can only suggest stuff and not pin point the actual problem.

You just have to sort through the various things till you find and fix the problem(s) ... that is all a local mechanic could do.

Part of the "Joy" of owning an old Opel!

[2 Fast 4 U]

If you have to keep your foot on the gas or the engine dies, could mean that your basic idle adjustment is not good [not the adjustment with the idle and CO screw] but the adjustment that where the throttle rests on when your foot is of the pedal.
To find it take of the air filter and move the throttle and you'll see where it rests and then turn the screw inwards so that the throttle opens a bit more, start the engine and see if it idles, if not turn the screw some more, and if this doesn't work you'll have to try some thing else.

[Paul]

Originally Posted by mnike000 I jiggled the electrical conections to the electric choke on my weber ....

Does your Weber happen to have a Idle Cutout(off) Soleniod? This would be an anti-diesel / anti-run on device that usually comes on California approved carbs.

Its located on the side of the carb very close to the choke. The wire from the choke may even go to this device to provide +12 Vdc to the solenoid.

Without the 12 volts to the solenoid the car will not idle....

Just a thought....

[Wolf Spyder]

Does it have a Weber with an old filter? Might need changing....

[gr_diver]

Maybe your electric choke is too tight, AND does not get power, thus holding the valve shut all the time. This came to mind when you mentioned fiddling with the electrical connection and then running better...

I've had similar problems when I had a maladjusted choke, that did not get power either (I had forgotten to reconnect the cable). Check the condition of the terminal, it might be held only by a couple of the thin wires inside...