70 gt engine questions please = )

[danktank]

hello all. im new to the site as you can tell. and im working on my friends dads 70 gt. i am doing a number of things to it to get it back up to working par and restore the interior a bit while im at it. im ordering the fsm for the car as finding specific info on torque specs and such has proved to be difficult. the navigation of this site is very different of that of the one i post in for my car lol. anyways i got a complete gasket set cuz it leaks al over the place. seems like a rear main and front main as there are puddles under both areas. i have the head off and taking it to a machine shop to have new cam bearings and a new cam installed valves checked and deck checked. although that should be fine. i was just wondering what should be checked while im in there and if you guys know the info or can link it to me for putting the head back on and re timing the engine. i did some searching on here and must say didnt come up with a whole lot but as im a newb on this site im sure thats why. im sure this thread will get flamed but please go easy on me lol. thanks for the help!

[sawdust]

Let me be the first to welome you to the site.

[Anonymous D]

You can use the "search" function on this site.

You can also try the links here:
Engine

[namba209]

If you look on the left side of the main page of the site, you'll see a downloads button. Click on that and the next page, bottom right side of the screen you'll see a download for the 73 FSM. All engines are 1.9L so the 73 manual on the engine will help with the torque specs, although the engines are different, some have a 10 bolt head, others are 12 bolts, but the torque specs are identical. HTH.

[BobCGT]

Welcome to the site!

This is without a doubt the best,most knowledgeable group of online users you will find.

If you need to know anything about Opels,this is the place.

[jvandyke]

I've not yet torn down my engine but you might consider new timing chain and tensioners. Be sure to read up proper procedure for avoiding oil leaks. Engine timing is set on cylinder 4, it's all in the FSM but there are actually some wrong drawings in there so watch it.

[opelbits]

Some people try to just 'get the answer' and not use a manual. Having a hardcopy of the factory manual is the best first step. Some of the info you find on here won't mean much without, especially since there are a few differences from year to year and model to model.

The first thing is to identify the motor and head as both tend to get swapped around in these cars. Out of a dozen or so cars I have had, only 3 or four had their original motor.

In the Opel lines, there are solid lifter and hydraulic lifter heads. Three or four cam bearing heads. Hi-comp pistons and low comp pistons. 10 bolt heads and 12 bolt heads. Various oil pans (certain Kadett oil pans should be used in a GT only if you like 3rd degree burns on your arm...). Two different automatic transmissions and one type of manual transmission (but with two different bellhousings and shifter towers). Two different driveshaft lengths for each model line. Sway bar rearends, non swaybar rearends, 3.18, 3.44, and 3.67 rearend gears. Ballbearing rear axle bearings (not so good if they have a problem, these also have c-clips holding the axles in) and rollerbearing rear axle bearings ) much better (the 70 GT should have the c-clip rear end from the factory). Four different types of brake calipers (I think, might only be three). Two different sizes of brake rotors. All of this stuff can be swapped from one 68-75 Opel to almost any other 68-75 Opel.

And that is just the 1.5-1.9 engined cars. I am assuming you do not have a 1.1 GT.

So the first order of business is to know your enemy...

[danktank]

well thanks for all the info guys! heres what i know.

its a 1.9 litre with the solex carb. manual trans.
the head appears to match the block and seems to be all orig.
it has solid lifters in it now but im putting in hydraulic ones with the new cam and taking the head to a machine shop to have it checked for truancy and have the new cam and bearings installed. im replacing all the oil seals in it esp front and rear main as they both appear to be leaking. i tried to dl the fsm but couldnt get it to work. ill try again tho. i cant thank you all enough for all your help. this is my good friends fathers BABY and he wants it ready for opel meets this summer. so after the engine we are reworking the interior and then its off to the body shop. i would have done this project in a different order but its his baby so im doing it the way he wants done. ill def look into a new timing chain and tensioner as he dont really care what he has to spend in parts he just wants it to run and look great. and i love the little car so i wanna see it shine as well. thank you all for the warm welcome and all the invaluable info! any other tips for doing this swap or things i can look for to answer your questions and better answer mine please let me know.

[jvandyke]

I've got a copy here too.
get a real paper one though, much easier to flip through real pages and drag around the garage, whatever.

[Gordy]

When the new cam shows up, I believe the rule is that you can use the 4 journal cam in the 3 journal head but not a 3 journal cam in a 4 journal head, so don't freak out on that.. I would think while it is out you should have the hardened exhaust seats put in for the exhaust valves.
A couple of things to recheck and check again as you re-assemble is to make sure the small black rubber gasket is installed at the front of the head where it mates with the timing cover, and to study the setup to acheive proper valve timing when installing the cam shaft sprocket.
Make sure if you have the oil pump apart that when it is put back together you do so with the large "nut" facing the rear of the engine, not the front.
Do a search on gasket sealers and avoid leaks when reassembling by not using too much or the incorrect gasket sealers. The Right Stuff has worked awesome on my last 2 builds on the oil pans used along with the half arc rubber gaskets front and rear.
Be aware on the front crank seal there is a small "notch" in the timing cover housing for that seal that alllows you to tap it or pry it out from that 1 little area. It gives you access from behind.
Remember the distributor needs to go in before the fuel pump goes on when you get that far.

[danktank]

i cant get that link to work jvandyke. i dont know why but the browser window that pops up is blank. and gordy so far i have it mostly disassembled however still have to divorce the trans and remove the timing cover. it looks like the oil pump and fuel pump need to come out in order to remove it. if it helps now that im in there i belive its a 4 journal head and high compression pistons. i really wish i knew why i cant get the fsm that would be a life saver right now. gotta say tho really impressed with the site. lots of help already! you guys rock. ill post up some pics tom if you guys want so you can see her in all her yellow beauty! any other tips are greatly apriciated!

[Gordy]

There is a bolt BEHIND the water pump which needs to come off to remove the timing cover, so you have to remove the waterpump before the timing cover can be removed. Oil pump can stay on for now, fuel pump needs to come off to remove the distributor. Oil pan should be removed prior to removing the timing cover also. Of course the front crank pulley needs to come off as well.

[Gordy]

Where do you live in Chicago? I'm out near Rockford but get into Schaumburg everyday on business. If you're ever in the 'burbs I could lend you a FSM but you should be able to pick up one cheap on E Bay.

[jvandyke]

Sorry about the link, looks like the file got corrupt. I'm uploading it again. Try it again, it's a 17mb pdf file.

[danktank]

sweet guys thanks! it worked this time jvandyke thank you so much! your a lifesaver! going to go get some more work done on the opel today!

[danktank]

wll i got everything out but the trans. thats next to come. once thats out im going to check the clutch and install the new rear main seal. timing chain and tensioner seem to be ok the engine only has 83k orig. so that should be fine right? or should i replace it just to be sure. starting work on the interior soon have to get a new dash cover. his is pretty bad. he asked me if these cars ever came with ac and i dont know. any ideas on that? i told him it would prob be near impossable to install if the car never had it as an option. anywho just chuggin through the restoration of this wonderfull little car. anymore ideas or tips are great! thanks guys!

[Anonymous D]

You should base your decisions not on how many miles an engine has on it, but the actual condition of your engine parts. To know what to consider, you should read the articles that you were provided a link to (earlier in this thread) to learn something about your engine (such as doing a compression check). You can also learn more about air conditioning in Opels, by using the search function on this website or a web search engine. In other words: If you start by doing the research yourself, then you can ask more informed and specific questions of others.

[jlthunder]

If you are replacing the rear main seal, you might as well change the clutch. Don't forget the ever so important pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. It is a bear to get out, but you should always install a new one when working back there. Ask me how I know

[danktank]

well i got the dash out today and just waiting on the head. will be nice when its done. im excited! thanks for all the help guys. and sorry anonymous i just figured id ask while i was posting.

[danktank]

still waiting on the head from the machine shop. just thought i would keep you guys posted.