Remove Engine on a GT?

[jlthunder]

Originally Posted by hotrodder1969 just droped the engine and tranny from my gt with some help from Ooooner lol now the fun starts what should i replace while it is out on a budget so i cant do everything just what is real needed

Motor Mounts and trans mount would be my # 1 priority
After that, the following

1. All Accelerator linkage bushings, pretty cheap.
2. Clutch fork dust cover(rubber)
2. New Firewall insulation

I presume a you are doing an engine rebuild/repalcement, so the following should be a given.
1. Clutch kit, including pilot bearing unless this is an auto.
2. Front and Rear main seal on engine, if just a motor swap
3. Front and Rear seals on trans
4. Bellhousing to trans gasket


I'm sure others will chime in. This will get you started.

[P.J. Romano]

I dropped the engine last month, installed Getrag and took an opportunity to replace the firewall insulation.

Tip #1 When installing engine back, put 12x6 piece of scrap sheet metal behind the valve cover. The engine will nicely slid, it might slightly dent the protection sheet but the firewall insulation will remain intact.

Tip#2 Remove the crankshaft pulley before dropping the engine - it can too easily get damaged by interfering with the suspension cross bar.

Tip #3 While the engine is out, take an opportunity and mark that timing ball on the flywheel with a drop of white paint. It will make it visible and make the next timing adjustment way easier.

Tip #4 For God's sake, drain engine and transmission oil or you will have a major mess on the garage floor. Took me three rolls of paper towel to clean it

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by P.J. Romano I dropped the engine last month, installed Getrag and took an opportunity to replace the firewall insulation. Tip #1 When installing engine back, put 12x6 piece of scrap sheet metal behind the valve cover. The engine will nicely slid, it might slightly dent the protection sheet but the firewall insulation will remain intact. Tip#2 Remove the crankshaft pulley before dropping the engine - it can too easily get damaged by interfering with the suspension cross bar. Tip #3 While the engine is out, take an opportunity and mark that timing ball on the flywheel with a drop of white paint. It will make it visible and make the next timing adjustment way easier. Tip #4 For God's sake, drain engine and transmission oil or you will have a major mess on the garage floor. Took me three rolls of paper towel to clean it

. . . when timing ball is aligned with pointer, mark crank pulley with chisel even with the long bar at the timing cover where the distributor is mounted . . .

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . when timing ball is aligned with pointer, mark crank pulley with chisel even with the long bar at the timing cover where the distributor is mounted . . .

Normally I wouldn't contradict you on something like this Otto because I know that you know your sheet...

However I would refrain from using a chisel since the front pulley on most Opels is made from stamped steel and is very fragile, and striking it as such can easily bend/distort it, creating a wobble. On a cast-iron pulley (such as on A/C equipped cars), this would be acceptable however.

I prefer to use a triangular file and make a small notch to locate the timing marks on the edge of the pulley, as such.

[yellaopelgt]

If I remember correctly, I took a razor knife to the pulley when it was timed,(scratched the pulley at my mark when it was on the engine) then took a small triangle file and marked it when it was off, and painted it. I too, thought it might get bent if I hammered on it when it was on the engine, well anywhere really. Didnt seem real sturdy....if I could scratch it with a razor,then it must be "soft".......obviously I'm not a metalurgist,but there are alot of parts on these engines that are similar. One crank on the wrench too far,or one too hard of hit with the BFH and things get outta whack. Ends up costing $$$ to fix.

[jordan]

The quality of the material on these engines and design as well to me is very impressive. My machinist told me never to bring him another opel flywheel again to turn as it was so hard. The internal components are phenomenal especially the blocks, so if they were going to cheap out on anything I am glad it was things like stamped steel pulleys and the like.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by yellaopelgt Originally Posted by RallyBob Normally I wouldn't contradict you on something like this Otto because I know that you know your sheet... However I would refrain from using a chisel since the front pulley on most Opels is made from stamped steel and is very fragile, and striking it as such can easily bend/distort it, creating a wobble. On a cast-iron pulley (such as on A/C equipped cars), this would be acceptable however. I prefer to use a triangular file and make a small notch to locate the timing marks on the edge of the pulley, as such. If I remember correctly, I took a razor knife to the pulley when it was timed,(scratched the pulley at my mark when it was on the engine) then took a small triangle file and marked it when it was off, and painted it. I too, thought it might get bent if I hammered on it when it was on the engine, well anywhere really. Didnt seem real sturdy....if I could scratch it with a razor,then it must be "soft".......obviously I'm not a metalurgist,but there are alot of parts on these engines that are similar. One crank on the wrench too far,or one too hard of hit with the BFH and things get outta whack. Ends up costing $$$ to fix.

. . . not quite as clear as it should've been . . . meant using chisel just enough to score and then finish with file . . . too much of a hurry!