Help to ID 1.9L Block and dipstick hole location

asdasc · 11-10-2005

Hi All,

In checking out the GT on the highway for the first time after aquiring it, I found something strange. I have 2 dipstick tube holes, one in the oilpan with a tube sticking up that is currently used for the dipstick, and one in the block just above it that had been plugged with a chunk of wood. The plug blew out at about 90MPH (it was running pretty well!) and then it blew most of the oil out of the crankcase, all over the left rear side of the engine compartment. What a mess!

I made emercengy repairs with a cork for ACE hardware, but I am afraid it won't stay due to the crankcase pressure at speed. Any ideas on how to more permenantly block it?

Also, what was stock for the GT? I *think* my previous 70 GT's had it coming up from the oilpan. Any info on the origin of this engine would be usefull. If you need pictures to fully understand what I am saying, let me know and I will post some.

Thanks!

Jonzo · 11-10-2005

asdasc,
If your GT is a 1970 it should have originally had an aluminum oil pan with the dipstick tube coming out of the pan as you have described. Later years had the dipstick tube coming out of the block as you described. But you're not supposed to have both at the same time!
Your block should have a steel oil pan to match it. I believe the oil pans use different kinds of oil return tubes as well and I've heard that it is important that the appropriate pickup is used with each pan.
Lastly I am pretty certain that Opel did not use any wooden parts on its engines (not counting cork gaskets)!
-Jonzo

asdasc · 11-10-2005

The chunk of wood was definItely NOT stock! I had assumed it was wedged in there pretty well, but then it blew out the first time I got it over 50MPH.
I have the Al pan, and no idea about the oil pickup.
Oddly, the Block ID number has the * before and after, which means it is a higher compression early engine, right?

I am thinking maybe it is a block out of an earlier Manta or something?

oldopelguy · 11-10-2005

Most of the 1.9 motors had the hole drilled there on the driver's side, even if they were in a Kadett or GT with the dipstick in the pan. Usually it's pluged with a rubber plug that went in before the paint and has been painted over.

I usually get one of the little rubber threaded inserts (they look just like boat drain plugs) from the hardware store. Not sure what the real name for them is, but they are used for mounting stuff in blind holes, you drill the hole, drop them in, then poke the bolt through what you're mounting into the insert and tighten. The rubber expands and fills the hole and won't come out.

There might be a bigger issue with that much crankcase pressure. Do a search on that and you'll get some interesting info too.

jeff denton · 11-11-2005

I have a couple blocks I wonder about, too. Both seem to be the "thick web" mains, one has a dipstick hole and the other has two. They have way different markings cast into them. I'll get some pictures up here soon. One of them will be the new race car engine...

opelwasp · 11-11-2005

OGTS has a aluminum plug that will fill the block hole very well. only a couple of bucks i think. just use a socketextention and a hammer and presto, permanent fix.

asdasc · 11-11-2005

Hi everyone, thanks for all the info and ideas. I was also thinking that a boat plug sort of arrangement would work well but didn't think they were available in different sizes. I will try that idea first and if I can't find it, I will get the plug thru OGTS.

Jeff, your comments got me thinking (alot). What do you mean by the thick web mains? Since I am the 100th owner of this car, and everyone has made undocumented changes to it, I have little idea about what is truly in there. I have what appears to be a new 2.0 head with an Isky cam, but the PO who added that didn't do the lower half, and thought it was LC when he had the head off. Contrast that with the block number which says it is HC. I need to pull a plug and see if I can see in the whole enough o see the piston tops this weekend.

I also have a spare short block that I was going to rebuild over the winter to drop in. I don't have it picked up yet, it was in a shed at the PO house and is still there, so I don't know what it looks like.

From what you are saying, maybe if this block is 'thick webbed' that I should rebuild this one instead?

GTJIM · 11-11-2005

Originally Posted by asdasc

What do you mean by the thick web mains? From what you are saying, maybe if this block is 'thick webbed' that I should rebuild this one instead?

On some Opel blocks the main bearing webs and caps are slightly wider than others. Great for the extra margin of strength for high reving race motors and/or turbocharged motors. However, for a street motor, any Opel block has a very strong botton end and there are very few problems "down there". Just check carefully for any cracks or bad damage that may compromise strength.
Pay particular attention to the head bolt threads and the main bearing tunnels
as head bolts do pull threads out occasionally and bearings do spin in the cap if too loose.
Some Opel blocks have two oil dipstick holes in them! I guess Opel just made blocks that would fit any application and plugged the holes not used.
Found the pics of the main caps - not onthis site but on TGSI's - thanks for the use of them ......

jeff denton · 11-11-2005

Somewhere on this site are some photos from TGSI Racing that show the difference between the thick mains webs and the thinner ones. A search for "main+webs" should pop it up.

asdasc · 11-11-2005

Great pictures! Now I know what to look for. I will try to pull the oilpan on both engines and see what I have.

The goal is to have a good strong street motor that really pulls, but that is reliable to drive on the highway or around town. I want to be able to drop the pedel get the tires to spin in first or second gear. I am using the stock wheels (I like the look of them) with 185 tires.

asdasc · 11-14-2005

This is a photo (hopefully, I haven't tried attachements yet!) of my block with the PLUG in it. I also have some pictures of the other block I plan to rebuild this winter. It does NOT have the plug in it. I am still curious what cars had the dipstick in the block, versus which ones did not have them. I will post the other pictures in a minute.
Lastly, it looks like the other block has the thick webs, so that is good. Although the only bearing cap still in place is the thrust bearing, I think. The PO still needs to find the box of parts he took off the block.

asdasc · 11-14-2005

After looking at my pictures, getting them ready to post, I think I see the dipstick hole in the block that I was sure wasn't there when looking at it in person. Pictures are here, but I am going to go get the block and bring it home this week to be sure. I don't have room for it anywhere, but I guess I will figure that out later!

kwilford · 11-14-2005

Originally Posted by asdasc

This is a photo (hopefully, I haven't tried attachments yet!) of my block with the PLUG in it.

If you can, please save and attach photos as .jpeg, .jpg, or .gif type files. The ones you attached were .bmp files, which are "bitmap" format. That format uses a lot of memory, relative to a similar photo in .jpeg. Almost ten times larger, in fact, as the .bmp files were about 200 kB each, compared to about 30 kB for the .jpeg.

Also, with the .jpeg format (or the others I mentioned), you can save them in higher resolution, up to 600 X 600 pixels, versus the 320 X 215 that the .bmp files were in. The higher resolution makes them much easier to see.

If you need image editing software, we have a program on the download page http://www.opelgt.com/forums/local_l...p?action=links called Irfanview that works quite well.

HTH

asdasc · 11-14-2005

Thanks Keith! You can delete these two posts from the thread to keep it cleaner. I did use the Irfanview to get those pictures down to size, but didn't notice it had changed the format to .bmp, I will be more careful with it in the future. Are those pictures OK or should I edit the posts and resend the pictures?

kwilford · 11-14-2005

Originally Posted by asdasc

Are those pictures OK or should I edit the posts and resend the pictures?

I think that they are fine.

coolchrisp · 05-30-2007

Does any one know what years had the Hole in the block, and what years had the tube out of the pan for the dipstick?

coolchrisp · 05-31-2007

anybody know? yes, no,mabey so?

SpringGT · 06-01-2007

Originally Posted by coolchrisp

anybody know? yes, no,mabey so?

My '73 GT has two dipstick holes in the drivers side of the block, about 3-4 inches apart, and the dipstick is in the one closest to the firewall. The front hole is plugged with a plastic plug and some sealant. It has been this way since new.

jeff denton · 06-01-2007

Sorry Chris, I can't help you, I don't use dipsticks or Opel pans. I plug dipstick holes with a blob of Right Stuff.

nobody · 06-01-2007

The question is kinda missleading. The answer has almost nothing to do with year of manufacture. Try what models used the Ali pan and which used the steel. They varied from year to year but by and large the Mantas and wagons had a dipstick in the block and most year GTs didn't. Early GTs had the dipstick in the block and some of the rally equipped eary mantas and 1900s had better pans than stock and different dip stick locations. Given the simple fact that so many original motors have been changed you might want to just stick with not mixing them without dealing with dip stick issues. However mixing and making it all work is common so that muddies the water even further. Confused yet?

11-10-2005	#1 (permalink)
asdasc Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mt. Clemens, Michigan Posts: 888 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Unanswered: Help to ID 1.9L Block and dipstick hole location Hi All, In checking out the GT on the highway for the first time after aquiring it, I found something strange. I have 2 dipstick tube holes, one in the oilpan with a tube sticking up that is currently used for the dipstick, and one in the block just above it that had been plugged with a chunk of wood. The plug blew out at about 90MPH (it was running pretty well!) and then it blew most of the oil out of the crankcase, all over the left rear side of the engine compartment. What a mess! I made emercengy repairs with a cork for ACE hardware, but I am afraid it won't stay due to the crankcase pressure at speed. Any ideas on how to more permenantly block it? Also, what was stock for the GT? I think my previous 70 GT's had it coming up from the oilpan. Any info on the origin of this engine would be usefull. If you need pictures to fully understand what I am saying, let me know and I will post some. Thanks!

11-10-2005	#3 (permalink)
asdasc Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mt. Clemens, Michigan Posts: 888 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	The chunk of wood was definItely NOT stock! I had assumed it was wedged in there pretty well, but then it blew out the first time I got it over 50MPH. I have the Al pan, and no idea about the oil pickup. Oddly, the Block ID number has the * before and after, which means it is a higher compression early engine, right? I am thinking maybe it is a block out of an earlier Manta or something? Last edited by tekenaar; 06-01-2007 at 12:39 AM..

11-10-2005	#4 (permalink)
oldopelguy Have Opel, Will Travel Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Pickens, SC Posts: 1,610 Classified Rating: 0% (0) Logbook Entries: 3 Provided Answers: 1	rubber plug Most of the 1.9 motors had the hole drilled there on the driver's side, even if they were in a Kadett or GT with the dipstick in the pan. Usually it's pluged with a rubber plug that went in before the paint and has been painted over. I usually get one of the little rubber threaded inserts (they look just like boat drain plugs) from the hardware store. Not sure what the real name for them is, but they are used for mounting stuff in blind holes, you drill the hole, drop them in, then poke the bolt through what you're mounting into the insert and tighten. The rubber expands and fills the hole and won't come out. There might be a bigger issue with that much crankcase pressure. Do a search on that and you'll get some interesting info too.

11-10-2005	#2 (permalink)
Jonzo Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 200 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	asdasc, If your GT is a 1970 it should have originally had an aluminum oil pan with the dipstick tube coming out of the pan as you have described. Later years had the dipstick tube coming out of the block as you described. But you're not supposed to have both at the same time! Your block should have a steel oil pan to match it. I believe the oil pans use different kinds of oil return tubes as well and I've heard that it is important that the appropriate pickup is used with each pan. Lastly I am pretty certain that Opel did not use any wooden parts on its engines (not counting cork gaskets)! -Jonzo

11-11-2005	#5 (permalink)
jeff denton former opel racer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: near some glaciers Posts: 2,774 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	I have a couple blocks I wonder about, too. Both seem to be the "thick web" mains, one has a dipstick hole and the other has two. They have way different markings cast into them. I'll get some pictures up here soon. One of them will be the new race car engine...

11-11-2005	#6 (permalink)
opelwasp Non Civilian Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA Posts: 1,371 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	OGTS has a aluminum plug that will fill the block hole very well. only a couple of bucks i think. just use a socketextention and a hammer and presto, permanent fix.

11-11-2005	#7 (permalink)
asdasc Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mt. Clemens, Michigan Posts: 888 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Hi everyone, thanks for all the info and ideas. I was also thinking that a boat plug sort of arrangement would work well but didn't think they were available in different sizes. I will try that idea first and if I can't find it, I will get the plug thru OGTS. Jeff, your comments got me thinking (alot). What do you mean by the thick web mains? Since I am the 100th owner of this car, and everyone has made undocumented changes to it, I have little idea about what is truly in there. I have what appears to be a new 2.0 head with an Isky cam, but the PO who added that didn't do the lower half, and thought it was LC when he had the head off. Contrast that with the block number which says it is HC. I need to pull a plug and see if I can see in the whole enough o see the piston tops this weekend. I also have a spare short block that I was going to rebuild over the winter to drop in. I don't have it picked up yet, it was in a shed at the PO house and is still there, so I don't know what it looks like. From what you are saying, maybe if this block is 'thick webbed' that I should rebuild this one instead?

11-11-2005	#9 (permalink)
jeff denton former opel racer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: near some glaciers Posts: 2,774 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Somewhere on this site are some photos from TGSI Racing that show the difference between the thick mains webs and the thinner ones. A search for "main+webs" should pop it up.

11-11-2005	#10 (permalink)
asdasc Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mt. Clemens, Michigan Posts: 888 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Great pictures! Now I know what to look for. I will try to pull the oilpan on both engines and see what I have. The goal is to have a good strong street motor that really pulls, but that is reliable to drive on the highway or around town. I want to be able to drop the pedel get the tires to spin in first or second gear. I am using the stock wheels (I like the look of them) with 185 tires.

11-14-2005	#14 (permalink)
asdasc Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mt. Clemens, Michigan Posts: 888 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Thanks Keith! You can delete these two posts from the thread to keep it cleaner. I did use the Irfanview to get those pictures down to size, but didn't notice it had changed the format to .bmp, I will be more careful with it in the future. Are those pictures OK or should I edit the posts and resend the pictures?

05-30-2007	#16 (permalink)
coolchrisp Curve Crazy GT Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Grosse ILE,Michigan Posts: 438 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Does any one know what years had the Hole in the block, and what years had the tube out of the pan for the dipstick?

05-31-2007	#17 (permalink)
coolchrisp Curve Crazy GT Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Grosse ILE,Michigan Posts: 438 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	anybody know? yes, no,mabey so?

06-01-2007	#19 (permalink)
jeff denton former opel racer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: near some glaciers Posts: 2,774 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	Sorry Chris, I can't help you, I don't use dipsticks or Opel pans. I plug dipstick holes with a blob of Right Stuff.

06-01-2007	#20 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873 Classified Rating: 0% (0)	The question is kinda missleading. The answer has almost nothing to do with year of manufacture. Try what models used the Ali pan and which used the steel. They varied from year to year but by and large the Mantas and wagons had a dipstick in the block and most year GTs didn't. Early GTs had the dipstick in the block and some of the rally equipped eary mantas and 1900s had better pans than stock and different dip stick locations. Given the simple fact that so many original motors have been changed you might want to just stick with not mixing them without dealing with dip stick issues. However mixing and making it all work is common so that muddies the water even further. Confused yet?