Valve lash adjustment

[EJprovost]

I know that this subject has been covered a lot. Is there anything different about this adjustment on a 1.9 GT engine, as compared to other engines, that i need to pass on to the mechanic doing this adjustment for me? Tips? Suggestions? Any advice? Thanks

[gr_diver]

Most engines have a screw and a locknut to make valve lash adjustment to which most people is familiar. Opel though uses a single 15mm self locking nut that is rotated by a ring spanner.

For hydraulic lifters, while the engine is working, loosen (one at a time) the nut until the lifter starts to rattle, then tight it just to the point that the rattle stops. From there make 4 clockwise adjustments of 1/4 turn each, one every 15 seconds. Repeat this for all 8 lifters.

For solids the gap between the lifter and the valve stem should be 0.30mm with engine hot and working.


There are several opinion that it can be done with the engine hot/cold, working/stationary, but the pre mentioned is the FSM method for each valvetrain... It is matter of taste mostly, especially for hydraulic lifters...

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by gr_diver Most engines have a screw and a locknut to make valve lash adjustment to which most people is familiar. Opel though uses a single 15mm self locking nut that is rotated by a ring spanner. For hydraulic lifters, while the engine is working, loosen (one at a time) the nut until the lifter starts to rattle, then tighten it just to the point that the rattle stops. From there make 4 clockwise adjustments of 1/4 turn each, one every 15 seconds. Repeat this for all 8 lifters. For solids the gap between the lifter and the valve stem should be 0.30mm with engine hot and working. There are several opinion that it can be done with the engine hot/cold, working/stationary, but the pre mentioned is the FSM method for each valvetrain... It is matter of taste mostly, especially for hydraulic lifters...

THAT would be a box-end wrench to us Colonials! . . . easier to use a socket with a ratchet wrench though.

[baronbors]

On my solid lifters- I tighten the valve lash bolts (nuts?) with the cylinder at TDC. The bolts (nuts!) get tightened up until they are just snug to the rocker then I back it off about 1/4 turn or until I can just barely feel a little play on the rocker. This is done on a warmed up engine. After putting the valve cover back on, it runs nice and quiet.

[EJprovost]

I've heard horror stories about making these adjustments, if it's done wrong. So Thankyou! Thankyou! for all advice to pass on.

[baronbors]

If my memory serves me corectly- I believe there is a video from Carlilse showing how to to the adjustments. Anyone have a copy to digitize and put in the archives?

[GTJIM]

Liz - with either the hydraulics or mechanical lifters there is no need to run the motor - with the motor running it is known as the "Hip-deep-in-oil" method!
Here is the hydraulic thread: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6a-engi...lve+adjustment

and the mechanical & Hydraulic both methods:http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6a-engi...ght=valve+lash

HTH!

[MikeyOne]

I need to adjust my valves (solid lifter 69 engine) and immediately found that I couldnt get the valve cover out from under the body. I was in a hurry so didnt work at it too much, but I had to wonder If I was going to have to remove the hood linkage, a top radiator hose, or maybe even let the tranny down a bit.

Can It be removed without doing something like this?

Thanks!

[GTJIM]

People have been known to jack up the motor and remove the engine mounts .... or undo the motor mounting cross-member and lower the motor.
But, usually the rocker cover can be 'wiggled' out from under the firewall overhang.

[baronbors]

I have to slide it off to the driver side of the engine and then work it forward till out.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by baronbors On my solid lifters- I tighten the valve lash nuts? with the cylinder at TDC. The bolts (nuts!) get tightened up until they are just snug to the rocker then I back it off about 1/4 turn or until I can just barely feel a little play on the rocker. This is done on a warmed up engine. After putting the valve cover back on, it runs nice and quiet.

This is something somebody said to me a long time ago, you have to hear the quiet ticking on the valves, if you don't hear that, then it's not good

[EJprovost]

Originally Posted by MikeyOne I need to adjust my valves (solid lifter 69 engine) and immediately found that I couldnt get the valve cover out from under the body. I was in a hurry so didnt work at it too much, but I had to wonder If I was going to have to remove the hood linkage, a top radiator hose, or maybe even let the tranny down a bit. Can It be removed without doing something like this? Thanks!

I lifted up on the front, keeping the back down, wiggled it a little, and came right out at an upward slant, slightly to the drivers side.

[gr_diver]

Originally Posted by baronbors On my solid lifters- I tighten the valve lash bolts (nuts?) with the cylinder at TDC. The bolts (nuts!) get tightened up until they are just snug to the rocker then I back it off about 1/4 turn or until I can just barely feel a little play on the rocker. This is done on a warmed up engine. After putting the valve cover back on, it runs nice and quiet.

Looks like English literature (Haynes) has affected MUCH the terminology I use for parts!

But I don't get it! The "pair" is bolt & nut. Soooo, in the valvetrain the "bolt" is the fixed stud, and one adjusts by the nut! Right?

Damn, I only had 3 drinks last night! That much of a hangover, that I don't get the simple stuff today???

baronbors: I am cool, don't worry!!! ;-)

[baronbors]

OK-OK- it's NUTS or if your from Norway -KNUTS.
I had to hurry up and write the reply yesterday as 35 eighth graders were leaving my room and 35 more came in. MASS CONFUSION

[EJprovost]

Originally Posted by baronbors OK-OK- it's NUTS or if your from Norway -KNUTS. I had to hurry up and write the reply yesterday as 35 eighth graders were leaving my room and 35 more came in. MASS CONFUSION

Glad we got this one solved.

[Gary]

Originally Posted by MikeyOne I need to adjust my valves (solid lifter 69 engine) and immediately found that I couldnt get the valve cover out from under the body. I was in a hurry so didnt work at it too much, but I had to wonder If I was going to have to remove the hood linkage, a top radiator hose, or maybe even let the tranny down a bit. Can It be removed without doing something like this? Thanks!

I rotate the hood latch linkage and hold it open by wedging a screwdriver handle behind it. This usually gives the valve cover enough clearance to be removed.

[opelnut10]

On mechanical lifters (solids) get the car warmed up,turnoff the engine and remove the valvecover. Hook your remote started button across the solenoid,bump the started until you can see that the cam lobe is pointed straight down through the oil drainback hole, ajust that rocker and go to the next one and repeat. On a GT you cannot see the rearmost cam lobe so you will have to stick you finger in the back drainback and feel the lobe (remember to remove finger before bumping starter, or it WILL hurt).

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 you will have to stick you finger in the back drainback and feel the lobe (remember to remove finger before bumping starter, or it WILL hurt).

It won't hurt for long ... and next time you will have to use another finger as the first one will be too short!

[EJprovost]

I just ordered (8) Chevy 60 degree V6 (2.8 litre) locking nuts. 99 cents each, can't beat that! Now all I need is a mechanic willing to loose a finger and get covered in oil?

[asdasc]

That shouldn't be too hard. We are everywhere!

[opelnut10]

You don't want that guy working on you car anyway, if he loses a finger and gets covered in oil with the engine off, he does not possess the smarts to ajust valves. Sounds like the guy that was changing the tires, maybe he had to find another j-o-b

[EJprovost]

Originally Posted by Gary I rotate the hood latch linkage and hold it open by wedging a screwdriver handle behind it. This usually gives the valve cover enough clearance to be removed.

I did notice something on mine: The last rocker arm is in the down position, maybe thats why there is enough clearance to remove the cover. Now if we just all had x-ray vision, because you can't see that till the cover is off.

[baz]

2 dabs of nail polish/tipex on the crank and cover away from any marks put on for timing and you can get back to that spot every time

[MikeyOne]

Undid the pasenger side of the hood catch and lifted it. Then I could roll the cover over to the driver side and clear the rockers. Adjusted the valves and got it to the even light clicking that I like from a solid lifter engine.

My wife as been tryiing to wear the rear tires out for two days now! It good to have a fresh engine.

She now has a car with NO oil or tranny fluid leaks (automatic trans), not even a drip. "Right Stuff" is great for the pan and even for the back of the rear main cap/engine block.

Thanks for the help.


PS. Has anybody seen my wife? Maybe an orange GT driven by a giant grin?

[GT Tim]

So any luck Liz?I just got a new kick butt head in California.There was a guy picking up a gt when I was there from here"Ceadar"so I beleive we have a new member too.If anyone can use my old head ask it has 1500 miles on it.Thanks Tim