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Old 10-13-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Heater valve cable routing

I need to replace the cable that runs from the dash panel to the heater valve in the engine bay. I can see where it comes out through the firewall, but I can't see where it gets to that point under the dash.

Does the heater box need to be removed to run this cable through? I'm getting the feeling that it does, because it's a 2 part cable and the other part goes to the far (passenger) side of the box. I don't know how I'd get it to that point, either.
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Old 10-13-2008   #2 (permalink)
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The cable from the heater to water control valve is a one-piece item. It is clipped to the water manifold tubes and may be hard to remove because of that. I can't advise on how to remove the cable with the heater installed, I had Willit? stripped when I made up a new set of tubes and replaced the heater control panel. Maybe a call to OGTS will be of assistance, they have replacement cables IIRC.
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Old 10-13-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I do have the cables from OGTS. I just can't figure out how they are routed. I called OGTS but they really weren't much help. I hate to rip things out if it isn't necessary.
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Old 10-13-2008   #4 (permalink)
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It's a two piece cable. One line goes to the valve. The other to the right side of the heater assembly. The cable to the valve goes under the box and between the two heater pipes. The other cable goes over the assembly and connects to the baffle linkage on the right side. Both cables are continuous and form a loop near the middle at the lower heater control lever on the dash. I don't think there is any way you can connect all this without taking the dash and heater assembly out. I guess if you wanted to, you could route a separate single push/pull cable from the water inlet valve to somewhere under the dash so that you would have the use of the heater without all the work.
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Old 10-14-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Although I didn't do the work myself, I had the cables and the heater control panel unit replaced. I know they had to take off the dash panel, but I dont think they had to pull the heater box. It wasn't mentioned to me if they did. You can always open the heater valve manually when you need it.
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Old 10-14-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Remove the dash?

Dang, I was afraid that was going to be the answer.
I tried manually opening the valve, but it's almost impossible to get it to the "just right" setting that way. Oh, well. Good thing we don't need heat in Wisconsin!
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Old 10-14-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Opelmel View Post
Dang, I was afraid that was going to be the answer.
I tried manually opening the valve, but it's almost impossible to get it to the "just right" setting that way. Oh, well. Good thing we don't need heat in Wisconsin!
Here's some pics from when I had it out this summer. You can see that the cable is clamped to the heater and the more stuff that comes out, the better.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Heater 1.jpg (50.9 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Heater 2.jpg (51.5 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg Heater 3.jpg (44.7 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg Heater 6.jpg (35.1 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Heater 7.jpg (38.6 KB, 33 views)
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Old 10-14-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Opelmel View Post
Dang, I was afraid that was going to be the answer.
I tried manually opening the valve, but it's almost impossible to get it to the "just right" setting that way. Oh, well. Good thing we don't need heat in Wisconsin!
I purchased a new valve from OGTS, and it stays open really well. (This is on another GT, not the one with the new cables and control panel). The cable is there, but isn't connected and doesn't work. I put the end of it in the valve to hold it, but I don't know that I really need to. HTH.
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Old 10-14-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CDN OpelNut View Post
Here's some pics from when I had it out this summer. You can see that the cable is clamped to the heater and the more stuff that comes out, the better.
Is the cable going out to the valve shown in picture #3 (the middle picture) or #4 to its right?

The valve moves fine, but every time I get it set, the outside temperature changes on me and we end up baking or freezing.
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Old 10-14-2008   #10 (permalink)
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The only way to fix the heater cables is to pull the dash , sorry but the truth hurts.
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Old 10-15-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markandson View Post
, sorry but the truth hurts.
Oh my, does it ever! Thanks to all for the responses.
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Old 10-16-2008   #12 (permalink)
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After you pull the dash.

Pull the heater box out of the firewall.

Why?

The heater cable goes through a large rubber boot (seen in picture 3) then it routes between the two water tubes, finally clamped between the front tube support and finally exits out of the rubber gasket under the hood.

Note: the clamp that holds the two water tubes "usually" holds the heater valve cable so tight that you can not pull out the old cable without loosening the clamp bolt.
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Old 10-16-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DennisGardiner View Post
Note: the clamp that holds the two water tubes "usually" holds the heater valve cable so tight that you can not pull out the old cable without loosening the clamp bolt.
Before putting the dash back in, adjust the cable travel first. With the heater unit in and the valve put in place, make sure the valve opens and closes fully. If it needs adjusting, you can pull it back out and adjust the cable position. You can also make more minor adjustments to the length of the heater hose to get the necessary travel range with the heater in place. Actually, it would be wise to change the heater hoses out at this point.
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Old 10-16-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ungermm View Post
Before putting the dash back in, adjust the cable travel first. With the heater unit in and the valve put in place, make sure the valve opens and closes fully. If it needs adjusting, you can pull it back out and adjust the cable position. You can also make more minor adjustments to the length of the heater hose to get the necessary travel range with the heater in place. Actually, it would be wise to change the heater hoses out at this point.
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You will also have to adjust the air flow "flaps" inside the heater box to be sure they open and especially close properly, otherwise you get heat when you don't want it. The other thing you might want to consider is cleaning up and re-lubricating the blower motor since it is also not accessible unless the dash is out, as well as springing for the $120 that it costs to put in the aluminum heater control panel that OGTS has. Just a little food for thought.
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Old 10-23-2008   #15 (permalink)
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stuck casing

i'm also trying to install a new heater cable before the cold stuff hits. i've removed the bolt at the top of the plastic blower/heater case and the two nuts at the bottom but i can't budge the case even a half inch. i've looked all around inside the passenger footwell but i can't see anything holding it. i don't see anything inside the engine bay either. is there a hidden clamp that holds the inlet/outlet tubes? i think i have to pull the case to attach the cable on the extreme right side and to thread the other end into the engine bay to the valve. has anyone attached cables without pulling the case?

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Old 10-23-2008   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rsefczek View Post
i'm also trying to install a new heater cable before the cold stuff hits. i've removed the bolt at the top of the plastic blower/heater case and the two nuts at the bottom but i can't budge the case even a half inch. i've looked all around inside the passenger footwell but i can't see anything holding it. i don't see anything inside the engine bay either. is there a hidden clamp that holds the inlet/outlet tubes? i think i have to pull the case to attach the cable on the extreme right side and to thread the other end into the engine bay to the valve. has anyone attached cables without pulling the case?

bob
These questions always show me how little I can remember at my age . I think you have all the bolts out so if you disconnect the heater hoses and the cable and as long as the air duct tubes are loose or off I believe the whole unit should pull out. I do remember that there is a sponge sealer around the opening but I would find it difficult to believe that it would stop you from pulling the unit out. Be careful not to put too much force on the unit as it is pretty brittle and easily cracked. BTW you do have to pull the case.
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Old 10-23-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markandson View Post
I do remember that there is a sponge sealer around the opening but I would find it difficult to believe that it would stop you from pulling the unit out.
That all depends on what kind of silicone the PO used when he/she put it back in.

I don't recall any bolts other than those you see, but mine did hang up on the vinyl piece at the side of the footwell.
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