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| Group 9 - Accessories - Radio, Heater, A/C, Sound Systems Radio, Heater, Air Conditioning, Sound Systems |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Restoration Dude
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[quote=Dennis Texas;161957]
I believe I posted the spec's on another thread but you will see step by step instructions for this unit as I install it. |
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JB
Restore, Customize and Conquer!!! |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Owes Tom King a salad!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 1,441
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
![]() Provided Answers: 1
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matl59:
That small Cold Marine unit draws WAY more current (20-40 amps) then the automotive systems do (5-6amps max) and would not be compatible with our 35 to 45 amp alternators at all, imo. Forgetaboutit. JB: Having just done my Manta last fall with an all new system, except for the double crank pulley which I had, I was wondering in your parts shopping if you sourced anything from Danhard in the past. Danhard Inc.-Automotive air conditioning manufacturer since 1963.Specialty vehicle,115 volt and aftermarket systems ? Most of my components came from Danhard via Classic Auto Air, Inc. My installation if anyone cares: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-9...g-c-manta.html Btw. So far in low 80 F sunny weather the new system really rocks! I only use the lowest of three fan speeds and it's great so far.
Last edited by Aardvaark; 05-20-2008 at 01:09 PM.. |
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-Mark
CarDomains: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2793120 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2141083 Currently: '75 Manta, 3-spd. TH-180 Turbo-Hydramatic, (Added Rostra cruise control, Classic Auto Air a/c system and modern CD stereo.) Back in the day: '73 Manta Luxus 4spd. (SCCA SoloII raced) Added AMC (Alamo Mfg. Co.) air conditioner. '75 Ascona 2dr 4spd (SCCA SSB raced) '78 Opel Isuzu 2dr 4spd (SCCA SSC raced) |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Ok i so have read all of the forum posts on air conditioning and i think this is the closest one to my question. I have a 197e gt with the gm a/c setup, it is big and hunky and takes away quite a few horse power when it is on. my engine is out and i was wondering if there was anything i could do to put a more efficient unit in when i put the engine back in? Also i would really like to run the 134a freeon cuz it is much cheaper so if anyone knowws of a new compressor that can bolt on easily in place of the gm one and also a condensor i can use the new freeon in please let me know.
Thanks Sterling |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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You can get a new Sanden 508 compressor (R12 or R134), ready to install for $175 or chrome plated for $ 200 at Hot Rod Parts and Street Rod Parts from Southern Rods. It is much smaller than the GM unit and it cycles on and off much more smoothly than the GM or the ARA York compressor.
I replaced my York compressor with one of these 20 years ago and have never regretted it. I modified my ARA compressor mounting bracket and kept the ARA idler pulley system since it was already in place, but you could probably fabricate a simpler mounting than this if you have the engine out. I will attach some pictures of my system for you and others who may be trying to do this installation. The ARA system goes on the passenger side and your GM system is just the mirror image of it over on the drivers side. I think that if you want to go to R134, you could break your components down (evaporator and condensor coils) and flush them with brake parts cleaning solvent or a can of liquid phase (can upside down) refrigerant to clean out the old R-12 oil. The new compressors usually come properly filled with new R134 oil. You may need to remove the expansion valve from the evaporator to properly flush it. Then buy a new receiver-dryer for $20 and probably new hoses, and you are good to go. Be sure to use a good vacuum pump on the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant. Good luck on this! Bob Last edited by SpringGT; 06-26-2008 at 04:33 AM.. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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thanks for the info Bob, so the sanden 508 matches up pretty well, because I know you said you modified your compressor bracket, what is involved with that mod? also I am not to familiar with a/c systems, what is a dryer receiver for and where would i get it and also, you said to use a good vacum pump on the system before recharging it was is the vacum pump for? Also one last question i looked up the website and it comes as a v belt or a serpentine belt, the serpentine belt is for the GT correct?
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#33 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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The ARA compressor bracket is a heavy, right angle bracket that is bolted to the block by 3 bolts. I just cut a thick walled spacer tube to fit between the compressor mounting tabs that had the same ID as the tabs, to assure a tight fit when installed. I then mocked it up, aligned the pully groves with the crank pulley then welded the tube to the old ARA platform. I fabricated a small belt tensioner for the top of the compressor (you can also buy these at parts stores ) and tightened the belts with it. I think that all of this is at least somewhat visible in the pictures. Your mounting will probably be a variation of this using your old GM mounting brackets.
The receiver-drier is a 3-4" diameter cylinder in the system right next to the condenser. It contains a filter and some dessicant material to capture dirt and small amounts of moisture that are introduced into the system by accident or neglect. It also has the sight glass in the top of it and collects the freon after it leaves the condenser unit in a liquid phase and serves as an accumulator for the liquid until it is needed for the expansion valve and evaporator. It should always be replaced when the system is opened up and they are usually cheap. They are available at auto parts stores and at auto ac parts stores. Get one that is the same size as the old one to assure that it will fit in the tight confines of the GT. The vacuum pump is used to remove as much moisture as possible from the system prior to recharging. Moisture is the worst enemy of an ac system as it will cause corrosive acids to form in the system and in large enough amounts can cause icing in the expansion valve. Pulling a very good vacuum on the system is a must so that all of the moisture in the system will "boil off ". This occurs because water boils at much lower temperatures when under a vacuum. After you convert your system, you can take it to a shop to be evacuated and recharged if you don't have access to a vacuum pump. Doesn't cost much if you have it all ready to go when you take it in. They can also check your connections for leaks with a freon "sniffer". The older Opels that we drive use a v-belt, not a serpentine belt drive. Good luck on this. The end result is worth the effort. Bob Last edited by SpringGT; 06-26-2008 at 04:49 AM.. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Thank you for that info, that makesa alot more sense to me now. I do still however have a few questions. First, do you know if the gm bracket is a right angel bracket as well? Second, yu said that the tabs had the same id, does that mean that after you welded in the spacer tube that the compressor lined right up? and also you said that you weleded a spacer tube, what is that, and lastly you said you fabricated a belt tensioner where would i buy one of those? Thanks again for everything and alll your info.
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