automatic w/dealer A/C?

[benncojr]

Originally Posted by netandtim Jim / Rick, Rick, when you say you have 2 consoles, are they both A/C consoles or regular ones? I'm still leaning towards getting rid of the A/C console altogether and manufacturing a louver/grill vent for the A/C opening between the seats.

They are the A/C consoles. From what I have seen of the center A/C console and heard from other members that have an A/C unit in the GT, I would recommend getting rid of the A/C console and use a louver/gril venting from the back. I am looking into going with a rear A/C unit from Vintage Air and run the cool air up from the back window.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by GTJIM I have an automatic 1972 GT and have been collecting bits for an ARA type A/C unit for some time. The automatic uses the same centre console as the manual g/box but has a special low gear selection plate that fits under the shifter hole. Here are some pictures of the ARA unit - complete out of the car and a nice shot of it installed - not pics of my setup but ones gleaned from here and there.

I have this identical set up on my 71 Gt to include the special hard to find radiator adapter for the hose to be able to fit between the compressor and engine. The one part I do not have however is the idler pulley it was not on the engine and I would appreciate anyone that has one if you would post a picture so I can fab one up

Thanks

[tomking]

You are talking about the idler pulley for the GM compressor? If so I just got one and will take a picture later today and post for you. I dont know if it is the same, but if you need a pic of the York idler pulley it is on a Manta and the pic angle would be, not so good, but I could do that too.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tomking You are talking about the idler pulley for the GM compressor? If so I just got one and will take a picture later today and post for you. I dont know if it is the same, but if you need a pic of the York idler pulley it is on a Manta and the pic angle would be, not so good, but I could do that too.

this is needed for the piston type compressor mounted on passenger side of engine not sure where the idler pully mounts as I never had it.
Thanks
Dennis

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by namba209 Jim, that's kinda interesting, none of those pics resembles what I've got in my GT. I'm referring to everything rear of the console, because mine didn't have a console when I got it. The AC fan and temp controls are at the outlet duct opening to the console way back between and behind the seats. It looks like it was designed that way because the temp sensor coil is there too attached to the control panel. . . . HTH.

. . . Uh, I don't think so. That "multi-connection" coil attached to your control panel is actually the "stepped" resistor used for fan motor speed control, I believe . . . at least from your description above.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas this is needed for the piston type compressor mounted on passenger side of engine not sure where the idler pully mounts as I never had it. Thanks Dennis

The ARA idler pulley mounts on an adapter plate at the front cam cover . . . see attached pics.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . Uh, I don't think so. That "multi-connection" coil attached to your control panel is actually the "stepped" resistor used for fan motor speed control, I believe . . . at least from your description above.

I guess I should have been more descriptive Otto. As you know there are two knobs on the GM AC control panel. One is the fan switch with multi-colored wires attached to it. The other is the temp selector. That is where the "Bourdon" type tube coil is connected to and is wound in to a circular shape about 4" in diameter with about 1/2" space between the coils. It is mounted right at the outlet opening of the AC enclosure. I can take a pic later if you need to see it.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas this is needed for the piston type compressor mounted on passenger side of engine not sure where the idler pully mounts as I never had it. Thanks Dennis

. . . thinking outloud here for a moment, do you have the ARA compressor bracket and cast alu radiator hose adapter already? What about the ARA crank pulley . . . those are all pieces specifically required if using the ARA compressor mounted in its original location!

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . Uh, I don't think so. That "multi-connection" coil attached to your control panel is actually the "stepped" resistor used for fan motor speed control, I believe . . . at least from your description above. Originally Posted by namba209 I guess I should have been more descriptive Otto. As you know there are two knobs on the GM AC control panel. One is the fan switch with multi-colored wires attached to it. The other is the temp selector. That is where the "Bourden" type tube coil is connected to and is wound in to a circular shape about 4" in diameter with about 1/2" space between the coils. It is mounted right at the outlet opening of the AC enclosure. I can take a pic later if you need to see it.

No, I know what you're talking about, just wanted to be sure for anyone else looking that we were BOTH talking about the same thing!

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . thinking outloud here for a moment, do you have the ARA compressor bracket and cast alu radiator hose adapter already? What about the ARA crank pulley . . . those are all pieces specifically required if using the ARA compressor mounted in its original location!

Yes I do, I read someone else's post where they said their ARA unit bolted to the water pump mounting bolts, mine has no such mounting, it has a very heavy steel plate that bolts to the passenger side of engine. The compressor bolts directly on this very sturdy platform into the bottom of compresser. I do have the special alunimum adapter for the radiator hose and it is in place got to love those midgets with wrap around fingers that ever installed that piece took me forever to get the hose over that thing (if anyone else does this install that piece first before compressor) and coupled up. I also have the double pully on crankshaft installed I just could not figure out where in the heck an idler could be mounted and have room to be able to be adjusted, now I see how it accomplished.
I will have to hunt through my boxes of forgottens to see if I have that idler or not. It appears not to hard to fabricate if not, thanks you so much for taking time to get a picture of it for me. My whole unit is mounted, the ARA [early] model console wired and rear unit and hoses in place just needs a belt and maybe a leaky condenser to deal with never has been charged up yet and it may have other sorted problems as well, it has never been hooked up before. I need to start uploading pictures of equipment so everyone has a better idea of what I'm refering to.

[tekenaar]

Firstly, definitely upload some pics if for no other reason than to archive an ARA installation.

Just curious, but are you planning a 'period-correct' ARA install or just making do with whatever you have, i.e. all ARA pieces or mix-and-match pieces? Are you restoring your GT or just fixing it where necessary to make it driveable?

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tekenaar Firstly, definitely upload some pics if for no other reason than to archive an ARA installation. Just curious, but are you planning a 'period-correct' ARA install or just making do with whatever you have, i.e. all ARA pieces or mix-and-match pieces? Are you restoring your GT or just fixing it where necessary to make it driveable?

I have both units the GM rotary used on later models like the 73 (which mine has a tag glued on it that reads opel GT ) and the ARA. The 71 had the ARA so I'm imagining that was the original unit supplied with that year car....I have another question I was looking at the piece you have pictured this must bolt on over the cam inspection removal plate as I do not see the relief for the cam button on it and it stands off with the three spacers in the picture is this accurate... I looked through some of my forgotten stuff this evening and did not find anything that resembled that piece so I guess fabrication is in order?
This piece must bolt on over the cam plate already on the head or the cam button would not have the proper clearance and the seal would be lost with the standoffs built on that piece you have pictured ? I have so much opel stuff it's hard to keep track of anymore just stored in boxes I parted out about 5 of these cars plus the cars I have, 5 intact cars no major damage or rust was on any of them, all but two are rebuilt 1 is almost there just needs assemble and paint drive train is rebuilt and in place. I see some pistons on ebay that I was considering for a spare motor I have one rebuilt with .05 in it but they are dished and the ones on ebay are flat top so may just buy if I can and put in stash for later. Right now I'm realigning parts to make them as accurate as possible with details associated with each year. After that garage sell. When I started my opel disease I just put together whatever I had to make the cars workable in example my 71 has the turn signal off the pre 69 model with dimmer button on it and the gauges /panel off that year as well that I need to get back on the car's they belong to.
And to clarify this ARA unit is complete it has the double pulley the radiator hose casted adapter for clearance and the early model console as well as the rear deck and the extra 6 inch base plate for the rear tray that has the vents for suction on it. I have the later too model, but it is not as clean an assemble as the earlier model it wraps up and over the shifter where as the early model is kinda flatter and equally divided for the vents at a lower height. I promise to get some pictures just need to figure how to upload in the messages as others do and get it done. My car is very drivable already it peels rubber in first two gears it was totally mechanical rebuilt 10 years ago and painted as needed to stop rust living in Texas is not always an advantage. I painted it a light burnt yellow (dark banana yellow) but original color was silver so I need to go back and do it correctly. Now that I am in headed in retirement years and have the money I plan and making them all respectable cars for the years they are.

[SpringGT]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas I have both units the GM rotary used on later models like the 73 (which mine has a tag glued on it that reads opel GT ) and the ARA. The 71 had the ARA so I'm imagining that was the original unit supplied with that year car ....I have another question I was looking at the piece you have pictured this must bolt on over the cam inspection removal plate as I do not see the relief for the cam button on it and it stands off with the three spacers in the picture is this accurate... I looked through some of my forgotten stuff this evening and did not find anything that resembled that piece so I guess fabrication is in order? This piece must bolt on over the cam plate already on the head or the cam button would not have the proper clearance and the seal would be lost with the standoffs built on that piece you have pictured ? I have so much opel stuff it's hard to keep track of anymore just stored in boxes I parted out about 5 of these cars plus the cars I have, 5 intact cars no major damage or rust was on any of them, all but two are rebuilt 1 is almost there just needs assemble and paint drive train is rebuilt and in place. I see some pistons on ebay that I was considering for a spare motor I have one rebuilt with .05 in it but they are dished and the ones on ebay are flat top so may just buy if I can and put in stash for later. Right now I'm realigning parts to make them as accurate as possible with details associated with each year. After that garage sell. When I started my opel disease I just put together whatever I had to make the cars workable in example my 71 has the turn signal off the pre 69 model with dimmer button on it and the gauges /panel off that year as well that I need to get back on the car's they belong to. And to clarify this ARA unit is complete it has the double pulley the radiator hose casted adapter for clearance and the early model console as well as the rear deck and the extra 6 inch base plate for the rear tray that has the vents for suction on it. I have the later too model, but it is not as clean an assemble as the earlier model it wraps up and over the shifter where as the early model is kinda flatter and equally divided for the vents at a lower height. I promise to get some pictures just need to figure how to upload in the messages as others do and get it done. My car is very drivable already it peels rubber in first two gears it was totally mechanical rebuilt 10 years ago and painted as needed to stop rust living in Texas is not always an advantage. I painted it a light burnt yellow (dark banana yellow) but original color was silver so I need to go back and do it correctly. Now that I am in headed in retirement years and have the money I plan and making them all respectable cars for the years they are.

You are correct that the idler pully bolts on top of the cam cover plate. The ARA kit came with three longer replacement bolts to attach the idler to the cover. Also, if you intend to use the original York compressor with this idler pulley, you will also need an aluminum thermostat spacer to keep the upper radiator hose from rubbing the belt. This is a thermostat housing-shaped aluminum spacer about 1/2-3/4" thick and came with the ARA kit.

I still have the ARA unit on my GT as installed in '73, except that I replaced the York compressor with a Sanyo. The York compressor is a good unit, cools the car well and mine didn't fail; the Sanyo just frees up a lot of engine compartment room and it kicks on and off much more smoothly than the York unit. The york is so large that its hose fittings often rub the underside of the hood when the engine torques over and it is near-impossible to see the flywheel timing mark with the York installed.

A final suggestion for installing the ARA in a GT is to put a 6-8" loop in the condensor hoses in front of the radiator. This way, when it is time for a new battery, you just have to remove 4 sheet metal screws from the condenser and rotate it up and out of the way without having to break any hose fittings or add any new freon.
You don't live that far from me; if you would like to come look at a near-original set up PM me. HTH
Bob

[tekenaar]

Thanks for that reminder, SpringGT, had forgotten about that spacer . . . still have that too. Now I remember where it's used, just have to find it again. My ARA was in my original '73 GT too, purchased in '76 and converted to '75 FI in '78.

Contact me by PM, Dennis Texas . . . I'll make you a good deal on those two items, if you want . . . that's why I asked my questions a few posts earlier.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by SpringGT Also, if you intend to use the original York compressor with this idler pulley, you will also need an aluminum thermostat spacer to keep the upper radiator hose from rubbing the belt. This is a thermostat housing-shaped aluminum spacer about 1/2-3/4" thick and came with the ARA kit. A final suggestion for installing the ARA in a GT is to put a 6-8" loop in the condensor hoses in front of the radiator. This way, when it is time for a new battery, you just have to remove 4 sheet metal screws from the condenser and rotate it up and out of the way without having to break any hose fittings or add any new freon. HTH Bob

hmmm another part LOL well that one snuck up have never seen one.I just bought a 72 GM supplemental manual to the GM manual for the AC hopefully it will have pictures. The longer hose is an excellent suggestion for anyone installing one of these units one of those forgotten items until you have to change batteries as you stated and almost a need to do, fortunately mine is already long the hoses came with the car, I've already ran into the battery installation issue. Thanks as always for the information.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by SpringGT A final suggestion for installing the ARA in a GT is to put a 6-8" loop in the condensor hoses in front of the radiator. This way, when it is time for a new battery, you just have to remove 4 sheet metal screws from the condenser and rotate it up and out of the way without having to break any hose fittings or add any new freon. Bob

On Willit? with the GM AC, the dealer cut a hole in the belly pan to remove and install the battery, the hole is covered with a panel held on with sheetmetal screws. I still have to jack up the front of the car to get the battery out just to keep the battery posts from arcing and sparking if they touch the sheetmetal.