automatic w/dealer A/C?

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas pics are nothing to brag about car is dirty only pulled it out of storage last week but you can see the ductwork on the interior (which mine is missing the vents) the compressor mounted on the engine and the connector for the rear unit behide the seats and you can see the battery does not come close to the condenser to rub against it.

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas this is the car the unit is mounted in and BTW there was no charge for the CPVC piping used to route the water to heater that is temporary I have stainless steel tubing to replace it with when I relocate it behind the compressor

. . . glad you noticed that, Dennis, as I can tell your from personal experience that PVC used anywhere in the engine coolant system will not work for long . . . heat will deform PVC, especially at clamping points, resulting in leaks and eventual replacement of the PVC pieces.

The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!

[Dennis Texas]

thats CPVC not PVC (pvc is low temp glue would come undone CPVC is high temp and you have to use CPVC cement) it has been on there for years no issues just looks like crap LOL I have stainless tubing to replace it with just debating on 1/2 which seems too small to 3/4 that seems too big also have copper tubing think it is 1/2 getting ready to redo all that stuff around that side don't like the way it looks but really don't have much room to clean it up in ..

[tomking]

Dennis I apologize for not taking and posting the pictures of my compressor idler pulley like I said I would. I just forgot it. However my York does not mount high up like yours is. Mine is also on the passenger side but down low; so I doubt my pics would help you anyway.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tomking Dennis I apologize for not taking and posting the pictures of my compressor idler pulley like I said I would. I just forgot it. However my York does not mount high up like yours is. Mine is also on the passenger side but down low; so I doubt my pics would help you anyway.

It is ok pictures got posted and it showed me what it looked like thanks for the intentions. Very forgetful myself at times.
You say your york mounts lower or do you mean it is not as tall? I would like something a bit no so invasive. I am going to go next week and check on the copper piping/tubing , I think he means the copper piping you use for water in a house, got a lumber store just down the road.

tekenaar.
" The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!"

I checked the tubing late last night and as it had looked the 3/4 is too big and the 1/2 is too small.

I always get it wrong, but I think tubing is OD and pipe is ID but they are measured different. Time to thank everyone for time and contributions. I did get the supplemental GM air conditioning manual for 72 year, but as predicted it covers the rotary type compressor, it's no loss it has a lot of information in it. Again thanks for pictures and infomation given on this thread.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas . . . I am going to go next week and check on the copper piping/tubing , I think he means the copper piping you use for water in a house, got a lumber store just down the road. tekenaar. " The most-effective/easy-to-fabricate stuff I've found is correctly-sized, hard-copper tubing and fittings which can be easily sweat-soldered together!" I checked the tubing late last night and as it had looked the 3/4 is too big and the 1/2 is too small. I always get it wrong, but I think tubing is OD and pipe is ID but they are measured different. . . .

. . . uh, that's why I called it "hard-copper" tubing . . . being the only type that is specifically designed for "sweat-soldering", i.e OD of "tubing" fits directly into ID of its fittings . . . the only exception being the "street-L" which fits over its tubing on one end and inside the same-size tubing on the other end!

I've never heard it called hard-copper pipe, BTW, I've always heard it referred to as just "copper tubing" (the "soft" type) or "hard-copper tubing!"

There . . . Plumbing 101 lesson complete!

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tekenaar I've never heard it called hard-copper pipe, BTW, I've always heard it referred to as just "copper tubing" (the "soft" type) or "hard-copper tubing!"

probably has several user friendly names this is what I thought you were talking about:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...per%20pipe

if not that was what I thought you meant and it will work better the pipe it is the same size as heater core lines I can get some insulating pipe cover and make it look better possible or more like a hose.

Anyway getting ready for work tonight be on later

[namba209]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas thats CPVC not PVC (pvc is low temp glue would come undone CPVC is high temp and you have to use CPVC cement) it has been on there for years no issues just looks like crap LOL I have stainless tubing to replace it with just debating on 1/2 which seems too small to 3/4 that seems too big also have copper tubing think it is 1/2 getting ready to redo all that stuff around that side don't like the way it looks but really don't have much room to clean it up in ..

The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked. On Willit? I had to buy 20" of thick wall 5/8" steel tubing, get it bent with a hydraulic bender, then cut the old tubes off the flange and weld on the new tubes. If space is a problen around the compressor, then Otto is correct, the copper will work, but I would only use a very short run of it and anchor it securely. It will work harden and stress crack if subjected to vibrations.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by namba209 The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked.

Ron, 1/2" copper plumber's tubing is almost exactly 5/8" OD, so it works with the heater hoses perfectly. I suppose they must rate the copper tubing by ID then?

Remember this? And the finished product? Made from 1/2" copper, fits the 5/8" Opel heater hoses.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by namba209 The correct SAE size for the heater core is 5/8" hose. IDK if copper tubing can be had in that size, it's been a while since I checked. If space is a problen around the compressor, then Otto is correct, the copper will work, but I would only use a very short run of it and anchor it securely. It will work harden and stress crack if subjected to vibrations.

Unless Otto has a different copper item in mind I'm going with the pipe and soldered joints, just may use silver solder instead of regular solder if it works. Schedule 80 tubing would be thicker but for the price and ease, you would have to use fittings not bends radius of bends would be of no help in tight spot as this, it would be an expensive job the fittings are bigger and heavier than standard fittings as well. Thanks for your opinions.

[tomking]

The 1/2 inch hard copper pipe, tubing if you want, will fit nicely inside the 5/8 inch heater hose and hold with the clamp. I use the elbows to make bends instead of trying to bend sharply the heater hose. The mantas i think had a specially formed heater hose which is no longer available.
Here is a pic or two of my York location in my Manta. It is hardly visible but cant get a clearer shot due to where it is located down low.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas Unless Otto has a different copper item in mind I'm going with the pipe and soldered joints, just may use silver solder instead of regular solder if it works. Schedule 80 tubing would be thicker but for the price and ease, you would have to use fittings not bends radius of bends would be of no help in tight spot as this, it would be an expensive job the fittings are bigger and heavier than standard fittings as well. Thanks for your opinions.

. . . this is my upper radiator "hose" on my 2.4 GT, an expanded view of the engine from above and a view underneath the engine showing the lower radiator "hose" in the upper right hand corner. You're just going to use smaller diameter hard-copper tubing, is all!

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by tekenaar You're just going to use smaller diameter hard-copper tubing, is all!

Yes for now, I just want my AC to work and I want all that clutter of hoses gone. I'm so tired of looking and working around that mess, you can sure tell the AC is an after thought. I'm going to use the 1/2 copper pipe and solder joints and end up with 6 small rubber hoses and the rest will be rigid out of the way piping.
Very nice on your 2.4 installation that would be my end desires, a clean simple easier approach to get to equipment. I hate clutter and tight working areas especially if there is no real need to have it that way.

[jeffnomad]

Man the interior of that looks like that car from the movie dum and dummer lol FURRY