GT A/C Help

[wrangler]

I would love any help anyone can offer in regards to installing a GM a/c unit into my 71 GT. I bought it off of e-bay, but have no clue as to what goes where and how, so, I have 7 boxes full of parts. I know that I can not fully do the install myself, but I would like to be able to get the lion's share of it done before I go in search of qualified ( and most likely not cheap) help to finish the job. So, if anybody has a diagram and pics of the a/c and what goes where (i.e. pully's, compressor mounting, wiring) I would greatly appreciate it.

[baz]

if you use the search feature you should find posts and pics of the install and positions of bits

[wrangler]

I must be using the search engine incorrectly, because when I do a search on a/c I don't get any technical help, just talk about which types there are etc. Would appreciate your help. Am sure it would help my future searches as well.

[baz]

i just did a search on "a/c" and got this hope it helps
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=a%2Fc
sometimes you have to use a little fuzzy logic

[GTJIM]

There is a booklet which is supplementary to the Factory Service Manual called: "Opel Air Conditioning Service Manual" It turns up from time to time on eBay and you may find it listed at www.amazon.com. It is very thorough in covering both the theory of a/c and the servicing of the "GM" style of unit.

[tomking]

The 1973 FSM covers air conditioning.

[baz]

and its in the downloads section

[namba209]

Wrangler, I had a GM AC on my GT before I started the V-6 swap. If you can take pics of what you've got, I can tell you where it goes. For a start, the compressor sits above the alternator, there should be brackets to mount it, the large plate goes in front with an adjusting arm mounted to it. The filter/dehydrator sits next to the condensor in front of the radiator. The evaporator, fan assembly sits on the package shelf directly behind the seats, there should be an additional shelf board to sit on top of that unit too. The hoses run through the floor along the frame? rail and up to the compressor, with one going to the condensor. The idler pulley is bolted to the right front side of the engine, and you should have a dual pulley on the crankshaft. Oh yeh, you have to cut a hole in the belly pan to get the battery in and out of the stock location and rotate it 90 degrees to fit in front of the condensor with another battery tray bolted to the original. HTH.

[wrangler]

Thanks Ron, Here are the pics of the parts. I will have to have hoses made, but figure they can do that when I have the finish work done. After reading some of the old posts on the sublect, I noticed alot of people talking about adapting compressors from a Metro. Did anything ever come out of trying out smaller compressors? Would really rather not have to change out the radiator if possible.

[GTJIM]

That isthe later "GM" type air conditioning unit you have there - and it looks very complete too.
Here is an exploded assembly drawing of the compressor bracket and below it one of the belt tensioner that bolts onto the block near the oil filter.
The Metro a/c compressor is tiny compared tothe full size old GM one you have there and takes far less horsepower to drive it. I am fabricating a mounting bracket for one at the moment - or rather still doing it! The Metro compressor is a Sanden SD 7B10 model - looks like the label got torn! It uses R134a refrigerant - the modern stuff.

[namba209]

Like Jim said, your pics show everything you need, from what I can tell. You don't have to change the radiator unless you want to, only then would I go to a 3-row core. The condensor goes on the front side of the radiator support. You have to drill some pilot holes in the sheetmetal for the condensor to be mounted with sheetmetal screws or bolts, two on each side. and the dehydrator/filter goes between the condensor and MC vacuum booster. There should be three tube in the package, two go to the evaporator/blower unit, one goes to the dehydrator/filter and compressor. All three have hoses attached to route them to their respective components. ie.,from the evaporator, to the condensor or compressor and from the compressor to the filter/dehydrator. Jim's pic shows how the compressor is mounted and the idler pulley on the other side of the engine.

[wrangler]

Thanks Ron and Jim. I really appreciate the input and help! Hopefully I can get this done soon... these hot-n-humid Florida days really beg for a/c. I'll look into getting a Sanden compressor as well. You'll have to let me know about that bracket Jim. Thanks again!

[namba209]

The Sanden compressor will probably work for the standard 1.9 engine configuration. Jim and I went through a lot of discussion on my V-6 application and it just won't work for me. The fittings coming out of the rear of the compressor is the problem. One thing you will have to do is changed out all the o-rings in your system and get a new dehydrator/filter. I didn't see one in the pics you posted. If you need, I can do a temporary install of my condensor and filter, take a pic to show the location of where they go.

[davegt27]

one thing i don't see in your pics is the modified brake bracket

the bracket that covers the rod that goes from the fire wall to the front where the radiator goes

thats gets cut away partially

also Martin Reimer has a GM AC setup with a newer Sanden or Sanyo (I for get which) compressor

davegt27

[namba209]

Dave, you're right, I forgot to mention that, mine has been cut and modified for the compressor to fit in that area. I do believe the installers did that mod using instructions that came with the add-on units. I can measure mine to see how much and where it needs to be cut along with a pic to assist in doing that part of the mod.

[ddoyle]

Wrangler, you may want to compare refrigerant prices in your area and decide which one to use. R-134 prices have gone up a LOT since last season, and the powers that be are predicting a shortage this summer. I would also strongly advise replacing the drier, unless it is new and sealed, it will be no good. Also make sure the o-rings and hoses you use are 134 compatable, o-rings will be green.
DAN