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Old 07-22-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Question GT buying questions

Hi all,
I just turned 18 and am out to finally buy a GT. I have been in love with the car since I saw it on an episode of C&D. From what I have seen GT's are hard to find in Missouri and I don't really have the means to pick one up too far from the KC area. The other day I saw one for sale locally and about crapped my pants. I was hoping you could help me determine what this particular car is worth. It is a '72 and has the original paint, Fire glow, i believe. Both seats are pretty much shot, all the electrical works, except ignition. The seller says that they all came stock with push button ignition, but i think he is hiding a problem with the button. The dash is terribly cracked. And on to the outside, the paint on the roof is cracked and peeling, the back (trunk) is really rough, hardly any paint left and rusty, but only on the surface. There are two small spots behind the passenger side wheels that have rusted through. The floor seems to be pretty solid under all the carpet and the doors shut tightly. Also, the passenger headlight bucket doesnt catch when rotated. And mechanically, it runs, needs a new clutch, new hoses, and whether it needs it or not, I am dumping the solex. The odometer shows 27,000 mi. and the clutch pedal looks the same as the other two, as far as wear. It has the original 1.9 in it and all original wheels. The guy is asking $1500 for it. If you are interested in helping me, i would gladly post some pictures to help out. Sorry the info is so jumbled. Thanks guys!
Steven

By the way, it came here from texas in or after 96, maybe it will sound familiar to one of ya?
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Old 07-22-2003   #2 (permalink)
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With your description, I would say this person is asking too much myself.

Plus the push button start was not standard as far as I know. I would almost recommend going on a trip to a nearby car show and looing in the car corral or a regional classifieds paper.

OR HERE!
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My Opel is your McLaren F1 street car!
Old 07-22-2003   #3 (permalink)
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$1500 sounds high, but if it has a solid body, that counts for something. Tap along the rocker panel below the door from one wheel to the other. You should here a nice 'hollow' sound. If it sounds like you are tapping on thick book (rather 'dull' sound), then there may be bondo. Look inside the car, ahead of the door (next to where your feet go), peel the carpet away from the inner sill (vertical panel coming up from the floor). There should be no signs of bubbling or blistering (you'll know what I mean if you see it). Push on that area. If it gives, then it is quite probably getting thin. Basically, look at the rockers, floors, and behind the rear wheels for rust.

The starter button more than likely means the ignition switch is bad. Common thing. When it wears out, you can get a short. My ignition harness in my first GT fried. What tipped me off was the smoke coming out of the steering coloumn.

What carb is on the car? Solex=bad, Weber=good.

Just look for obvious signs that tells you someone has been 'mucking-about' with the car. Things like Pinto carbs, household electrical cord replacing correct automotive wire, unwrapped sections of harness, those god-awful red/yellow/blue crimp terminals for wiring, no fan shroud, big holes for stereos/speakers, 'vette' stickers, 'turbo' stickers, homemade wood (plywood!) console parts, etc. I've seen all these things......

Pics would be a great help. Especially, engine compartment and interior. The members here could tell you whats missing or wrong.
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"No, it's not fiberglass."
"No, the motor is not in the back."
"No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer."
Old 07-22-2003   #4 (permalink)
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Look in the ads section of the club and find the GT for $2500. It's in Farnington, just south of St. Louis.

Also, there is a rather nice 73 GT a couple blocks from my house that may be for sale. Blue with a black int.
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"No, it's not fiberglass."
"No, the motor is not in the back."
"No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer."
Old 07-22-2003   #5 (permalink)
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i actually was looking at the two in farmington, but some guy, from philly i think, got to them a day before i did. If there is one for sale in st louis, i would really be interested. I'll try to get some pictures soon. I originally thought that anything more than 700 for this car was too much, but wasnt sure, since it is a gt.
Steven
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Old 07-22-2003   #6 (permalink)
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I personally recomend reading ...

http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=oana
(read the Opel Value and Appraisal Guide)

The above link will give you an idea of the value/rating of a GT should be.

Also, keep an eye an ebaymotors, you never know something nearby might show up, in addition to getting a feel for what the market/condition of these cars .

Good luck in your search!
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'71 Opel GT
Old 07-22-2003   #7 (permalink)
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offer him $850 "take it or leave it" then he will say no and go up in $100 increments and each time and say "this is my final offer." i personally wouldnt go over $1100 i got my gt for $1300 and it was missing most of the front end (belly pan, bumper,bumper bracket, bumperettes) but it has a totally rebuilt engine in it and most of the interior brand new but uninstalled, i think it was a really good find.
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Old 07-22-2003   #8 (permalink)
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Smile I live in KC and paid less. (another newbie)

In KC - they rarely go for sale. Not many last past winters. In Denver and SW, where it's much drier, there are a lot more.

I paid $1200 for mine. It's in better shape. Has several new parts (weber carb, windshield, front bumper, window seals,...). Interior is OK. Dash is cracked. Runs OK. Carb is too rich.

Mine has a starter button (previous owner). It's not factory. That's about the first wire to go. Dealing with the ignition switch stinks. Mine has a lot of wiring repairs. Looks like a Boeing 737 under the dash. I'll replace the wiring someday. I'd look under the dash for more problems.

Since I've bought mine, I've replaced the fuel pump and rear brake cylinders. Anything with a rubber part that's original is suspect. Plan on replacing them all if you plan to keep the car.

I'd also check the floor board. Don't want to drive like Fred Flintstone.
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Old 07-22-2003   #9 (permalink)
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I think the link was

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/oana/value.html

What I found, and I can't find it now, (figures) is that you get what you pay for. In some of the classic car buying guides, they will tell you to buy the best car you can afford. Let somebody else put their money into the restoration for you.

Also, don't buy a rust bucket if you can find another car in better shape. It's worth the extra money.

You might want to take some inventory of what you would have to replace, or maintain, or upgrade to get the car reliable and use that as a guide line, along with the purchase price, for what your out lay will be.
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Old 07-22-2003   #10 (permalink)
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orange fireglow gt

I went out and started that gt about 3 weeks ago.The engine sounded good..but who knows.I am not a body person...lots of surface rust....the car had a salvage title.the car has had no
"affection".No upgraded parts/// orig solex carb..orig radio was interesting...some smaller holes in body.

I think the car is worth $500-600 for parts

all rubber-all bushings all gaskets are shot..car has had zero maintainance


I would like to split the car 2 or 3 ways with some local folks...
=we could part it out..as I recall ..I thought the intrument panel looked good.
..never know when one of us will need a door or a front end...glass was good..

car has has 127,000 or more on it...my opinion
it will be much cheaper to spend 2500 on one that a person owns..not a savage yard...I will keep my eye out for you.It will save you money on travel to buy one in missouri/local
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Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world
Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET!
Old 07-22-2003   #11 (permalink)
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Hmm...$5-600 for a parts car? Only under special circumstances. This is my GT: http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showpho...cat=500&page=1
http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showpho...cat=500&page=1

Aside from the wheels/tires/spoiler/driving lights which I added later, the car is in about the same shape as when I bought it. It had a solid lifter 1.9 that ran. The other pics in my memebers photos show the damage that was done a year after I bought, it was absolutely straight, just rusty (very rusty). Dash was like a roadmap, but the seats were ok. I paid $400 for it. Although I've swapped the engine (twice) and trans out, I've done close to 10k in it since late 99.
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"No, it's not fiberglass."
"No, the motor is not in the back."
"No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer."
Old 07-23-2003   #12 (permalink)
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I bought a 69 GT for $150 in June ,minus motor & trans which I can get back for another $150. I traded a 72 Vega for a 70 GT in SoCal which was rear-ended. The point I'm trying to make is this. 1) If you like to wrench and fix things yourself, look for the rust buckets. 2) If you don't, look on e-bay or online and you can find some nice restored units. The NADA book says they're worth $1300 -$7000 (fair up to excellent). Banks will use 80% of the NADA price so that ought to give you some guides.
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Old 07-23-2003   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, you have all been a great help.
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