Just bought a GT!! Need some tips.

[TB_6230]

I just bought a 70 GT that has not been drivin in 4 years, and won't start. Any suggestions on the procedure to get it up and going? The engine does start over, but I would like to know the best way to flush the trans, fuel tank/lines, and oil. I am 18 and this is the first car I will actually need to work on. And yes, I am headed to the library to get some manuals. Also, need to know what oil filters, fuel filters, and brakes will be compatible with the GT. Pretty much, I need all the help I can get.

Steven

[Gary]

Congrats on your new GT!

There is a very powerful search engine on this site. Many of your questions have been answered before. Type in a few key words and it will scan our 14,000 posts.

Try eBay for a shop manual. Wiring diagrams are in the Photo Gallery.

[BQS4]

Congratulations on getting another GT (or Opel, for that fact) out on the road again. The main thing is to have the points, plugs and condensor (all ignition) new. Then you want fresh, or at least good gas. It will take a while to get gas to the carb, as the pump only puts out 3-4 psi. But, take the line off at the carb and turn it over till the gas comes out, then re-connect. Change the oil and filter.

[jlthunder]

I suggest you change the fuel outlet line at the gas tank if it hasn't ben done by the PO. It is not a hard repair and will help prevent your GT from going up in flames. A replacement line kit is available from Opel GT Source. If the headlight wiring has not been replaced, that is another area which will require attention.

Just my $.02

[Old Hippie]

The local parts house can set you up for the standard stuff: oil, filters and such. Use the stock stuff till you get to know your GT. "Compatable" is not always best. Get the gas tank drained out, including what BQS4 & jlthunder suggests, and do the oil and filters before you turn it over again. If it's a std. tranny, just check the fluid level. Gear oil is pretty stout stuff and it's not likely to get contaminants in it. If a auto., check the smell and color of the fluid: dark w/ a burnt smell is trouble and pink is good.
Common sense is the key.

[opelbits]

Where's Pleasant Hill?

Calvin and I are in St. Louis, Rav99 is in Belleville (just across the river from us), a few people are in the KC are, and one or two down around Springfield.

[houserc]

TB_6230,

Did you pick up the GT in Independence/Lee Sumit? The one off of Highway 40?

Bucky and I are in the KC area, along with several others.

[ConreroGT]

Congrats on the new GT! I was 19 when I got my first GT. I'm 33 and on my 2nd one now. http://www.opelgtmotorsport.com/project1.html

*Warning:

They're addicting. For some reason I can't let them go.



If your using it for general fun/fixing up etc...I would suggest going to an electronic ignition (Crane XR700) which will get rid of the points/condensor, and a Weber 32/36 carb ASAP. If it doesn't have it already.

those are my $.04.

[TB_6230]

Pleasant Hill is south of KC about 30 miles. I did look at the GT on 40, but couldn't see paying what he was asking for it. This one came out of and Auto trader, it was in Smithville. I have pictures in my gallery, and will have many more when I get it home tonight. Thanks for all the help.
Steven

[Old Hippie]

If it's the yellow Gt, it seems to be a pretty good buy. Few dings and a nice straight bumper! Very nice.

[ravn99]

hello there TB_6230 and wow another opel guy somewhat in the area,,,, next summer we are all getting together (this last summer none of us were really ready to be drive the hell out of our cars) I also have a 70 gt. every one on here (great suggestions) I think is basicly saying start with the little stuff to get it running,,,one thing i may say is when you know its getting spark and gas,,,make sure to chang the oil before revving it up a whole bunch,,,,,will be talking to you soon...O yea the tattoo on my right fore arm is real and now has flames,I will post a new pic....

[TB_6230]

I have been searching multiple sites for this information, but can't find, so I'll just ask, what are the capacities? Oil, fuel, pretty much everything. Also, i pulled the tumblers out of the gas cap trying to unlock it, anyone know of an easy fix? And I havent looked for all this but brake shoe replacements, which ones. So many questions, and so little i can pull from my books and the forums.... it's already confusing me....

[cherokee]

You are just down the road from me...I live a little past Lone Jack. Drop me a note and I will help you out all I can. There is another Opel guy in Lone Jack...at work now and can't remember his name. Send me an E-Mail and maybe we can get in touch.

[BQS4]

Wally Branham is in Lone Jack.

[TB_6230]

Ok, I got the electrical up and running and the brakes fixed for the most part. Now I'm ready for removing the gas tank to clean it out. Any tips would be great while I wait for my repair manuals to show up at my library. Also, my neighbor (a mechanic) was looking at the car and told me that it probably shouldn't be ran on unleaded fuel. Is this right?

[namba209]

Unleaded gas is not a good plan on an early GT motor such as yours, if it has the original engine and standard valve seats. I would suggest you get a lead additive and add it to the gas when you fill up the tank, until you can determine if the engine has been rebuilt with the hardened seats.

HTH.

Ron

[cherokee]

I would suggest a lead additive even if you have hardened valve seats...I run it in all of my vintage stuff. As to getting the gas tank out...it is not too bad if you are a skinny guy like me. Drain it, pull the back of the package tray out....and I think it is held in by like 4 bolts....If you are skinny it is easy...if you are not...find someone who is or enlist the help of a kid. I had my car striped when I pulled mine...came out no problem. If you need a tank I have one that you could have....It looked to be in good shape.

[TB_6230]

I cant for the life of me figure out how to actually get the gas tank out of the car. I have it all unbolted but there are two rails keeping it from coming out. the only solution i see is to take the back of the car off, but that is something i am afraid of. You guys are all i will have for awhile, my library has misplaced the manuals during transportation or something.......

[greensmurf20]

if those two little rails is all that are holding you up all you need to do is take those off......very easily done. go to the outside of the car and look into the inner rear wheel wells and there will be 2 studs on each side of the car hiddin underneath all the tar and undercoating. they are ten MM nuts on the studs, just pops those off *they dont normally break* and they pull right out fromt he inside of the car, gas tank then pulls up and slips out.

[TB_6230]

Well, I got everything ready for interior restoration, but have run into an engine problem. It runs, pretty well, actually, but there is a small leak. It seems to leak oil around the head gasket, towards the front. I don't seem to think it should leak oil here, am i wrong? Also, I would like some tips on repairing a few spots on the body of the car. Thanks guys.

[Jim Branham]

If you have a welder handy, I'd weld in some patch panels. You've got the tank out so the rear should be pretty opened up giving you enough room to work. Do as much rust removal as possible. Once it has started, it is really hard to stop it but check out some supply stores for chemicals to remove as much of the rust as you can that you can't cut out. Then seal it up as best as you can. I've done lots of rust work from my backyard / driveway (never could afford those rust free cars) and the longest a bad rusty spot has lasted before it showed up again was probably 4-5 years. I like fiberglass when I can't weld, bondo doesnt seem to last as long for me before the rust is back, but I am no expert and all my cars have lived outdoors all year long. Take your time and don't get into a hurry. It's much easier preventing rust than repairing it. Good luck.